Posted: 1/12/21 | January 12th, 2021
Some things just aren’t meant to be. Sometimes, no matter how much you want something, the universe seems to conspire against you.
While I believe you make your own fate, I do think the universe has a way of saying, “Hey, the timing isn’t right. You should rethink your plans.”
So it was with my move to Mexico.
Last year, I wrote how I had planned to move there for the winter.
I needed a mental break, wanted to save money by renting out my apartment, and had a number of friends living there. My goal was to work, eat tacos, have a little social bubble, and spend a lot of time socially distanced at the beach.
But, thanks to a new management company that refused to allow me to sublease my apartment, those plans withered away. And while I’m not above having someone live there “under the radar,” most people in Texas need a car — and a parking pass for my building would definitely require my property management company’s approval.
Thus there would be no winter in Mexico for me.
But I discovered something during this process: Mexico is awesome.
Yes, I know I’m late to this party. So late that the hosts are cleaning the dishes and asking me where the heck I was all night.
Mexico is not some undiscovered land. Nowhere I went could be considered “off the beaten path.”
But while it was not my first time in the country — I’d briefly touched its shores as part of a cruise and once spent three days in a resort on a press trip way back in 2011 — it was my first time really seeing it.
Before this trip, I never gave Mexico much thought. It’s just a few hours away from Austin, so I had always figured I could go there anytime. Why visit Mexico when I could see French Polynesia instead?
People rarely explore their own backyard. To many, travel is about long flights and faraway destinations.
So it was for me for a long time. Though in recent years Mexico rose higher on my list of places to visit as more friends raved about it, it just never seemed to make it to the top. I’d make plans to go, only to be distracted by a shiny object (i.e., some other country).
Oh, how I regret that after seeing what I’d been missing!
Mexico is magical.
In the six weeks I was there, I spent close to three in Tulum (which was terrible), one in Playa del Carmen, five days in the Yucatán, and two weeks in Oaxaca.
The original plan was to spend a few weeks in Tulum then move to Playa del Carmen, where some friends lived. We’d form our little social bubble, and I’d get some work done and stay until March. But by week three, I knew that wasn’t going to happen. I hated Tulum and I didn’t really vibe with Playa. (Here’s a long post on why I hated Tulum in case you missed it.)
Playa was nice. There was a lovely beach, some good restaurants and bars, and lots of digital nomads. I can see myself going back, meeting people, and partying on the beach. But in the age of COVID, that’s not what I wanted to do, so Playa didn’t really feel like the place to be right now.
Between that and my apartment situation, I realized my stay in Mexico was coming to an earlier end than planned.
But what to do with my remaining time that was also COVID safe?
While in Tulum, a friend and I took a car to Yucatán — which was like crossing over into Shangri-La. Suddenly, the roads got better. Masks were being worn everywhere, there were restrictions on group sizes, and business hours were limited. Here was somewhere that took COVID seriously — and I loved it. The area felt safe, and its case count (only a few dozen a week in the entire state) reflected that.
It was also the first time since I landed that I really felt like I was in another country, not someplace designed for tourists who wanted a “safe” version of Mexico. I loved the Spanish architecture, the incredible and diverse cuisine, and, of course — as clichéd as it is — the people. So many people just wanted to stop and talk, and I felt a lot of hospitality there.
In Mérida, we found Mezcalería La Fundación, a mezcal bar recommended by a few bloggers, but it seemed closed. On a whim, I decided to walk around the block to this hot dog restaurant I had seen and ask if they knew if the bar would be open later.
“The bar closed permanently because of the pandemic,” she replied.
“Crap,” I said turning to my friend. “I guess we’ll go to the market now.”
The server turned to the other guy in the shop and, in Spanish too fast for me to understand, started talking, and then turned to me. “This guy will take you to a place nearby. It’s very good.”
So we followed a stranger back down the street toward the closed mezcal bar. At first, I thought there had been some miscommunication, but he knocked on another door instead, one so barely noticeable I had walked past it twice. A man came out, words were spoken, and we were told to go in.
“Whoa,” I exclaimed. “We’re in a mezcal speakeasy!” I was beaming, as I love speakeasies and fancy cocktail bars.
“Ohh, this is not the speakeasy,” the bartender said. “For that, follow me.”
He walked to the far end of the bar, then opened the bookcase into another secret bar. A bar within a bar!
“What’s this bar’s name?” I asked.
“We have no name,” the hostess said.
“How do people find this place?”
“You have to have our number. It gets shared by word of mouth.”
After a few drinks in the secret bar, we met the owner, Roberto. He used to work in advertising but got tired of it and started a mezcal brand. The bar we were in, Acervo, opened a year ago but was kept fairly secret. The speakeasy, which has no name, social media, or website but does have a beautiful outdoor garden, was started right before the pandemic.1
On hearing we were going to Oaxaca, he gave me the number of his friend. “He’ll teach you all about mezcal.”
Then into the night we went; music and dancing filled streets and plazas.
Even against the backdrop of the pandemic, Yucatán, and specifically its capital, Mérida, adhering to public health rules, showed that you could balance life and COVID and still keep case counts low. (Admittedly, this is aided by their ability to be able to do outdoors and spaced apart.)
But, while I loved Mérida, it was Oaxaca that really made me swoon.
Have you ever showed up somewhere and before you know it, something in the air just tells you that this place is right for you? That it’s everything you ever wanted and you’re going to be in love with it forever?
That was Oaxaca for me. The food, the mezcal, the architecture, and (of course) the people were amazing. The city is a mix of modern buildings painted in bright colors, historic Spanish colonial churches, cobblestone streets, and lots of parks.
In the last decade, as mezcal has become incredibly popular, Oaxaca has also become the hub for all things mezcal, with tourists reaching record numbers before COVID. And, along with Mérida and Mexico City, it’s considered one of the gastronomic centers of Mexico.
My expat friends and I ate and drank our way through the city. We discovered the hamburguesa, an Oaxacan street burger that contains beef, ham, hot dogs, two kinds of cheese, pineapple, tomatoes, and lettuce, all in a grilled bun (it’s as delicious as it was unhealthy); ate lots of moles, tacos, and Oaxacan cheese; and went to the mountains to see some ruins and learn how Mezcal was produced. And, of course, we met Roberto’s buddy, who did indeed give us an educational mezcal tasting on his bar’s rooftop (and who helped my friend find her apartment when she decided to stay in Oaxaca for the winter).
I was surprised by how much I loved Mexico. Sure, it has problems: many cities are no-go zones because of cartels, corruption is rife, there’s a lot of violence and poverty, and it gave its people no assistance to weather the pandemic. “You’re on your own,” said the government.
And there’s a lot I still need to learn about the country. I only saw a tiny sliver of it through mezcal-tinted glasses. There’s a lot more to see and a lot more of the culture, people, and life I needed to learn. I barely scratched the surface.
But that’s all the more reason to return.
I can’t believe I missed this place for so long.
What I fool I was!
I won’t make the same mistake twice.
1- If you want to go to the speakeasy, you need to make a reservation. Text +52 999 658 1678 for that evening’s password. On Thursdays, they have jazz.
2 – Let’s talk COVID. Mexico is open for tourism. It doesn’t require any testing or quarantining. (I got a PCR test before I went because it’s just the right thing to do.) And that’s why so many people go there to party. I mean, Tulum was insane, and I was glad to get out of there. Masks and restrictions were enforced in Yucatán and Oaxaca, but not so much in Quintana Roo (where Tulum, Playa del Carmen, and Cancún are).
But, frankly, I wouldn’t advise going to Mexico right now. Cases have risen a lot since I first went and even once-safe places like Oaxaca aren’t so safe anymore. I know that sounds hypocritical of me since I was just there — but things were different in November and, if I had to make the same decision now, I wouldn’t do it. Mexico can wait.
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Want More Information on Mexico?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Mexico for even more planning tips!
Evelynn
I went to Mérida and Oaxaca in January 2020 and absolutely loved both. We were told that Mérida is the safest city in Mexico, and it certainly felt that way. I felt safer walking around at night in both cities than I ever have in most US cities. So sad to hear La Fundación has closed, I have a really great memory of being there. We found a speakeasy through the refrigerator of a pizza store just around the corner from La Fundación — I wonder if it’s the same one you visited or if Mérida is the land of speakeasies.
janice
I’ve enjoyed your travel stories/advice for years. What I don’t understand is why you travelled internationally during a travel ban? And then complained you had to return early. So you were going to stay in your ‘bubble’, good for you. Do I sound like sour grapes – you bet.
NomadicMatt
The story of why I went to Mexico is linked at the top of this post!
Cisley
It melts my heart that you visited Merida and liked it. It’s my birth city and, though I’ve travelled a bit (not as much as you of course) and have loved so many places around the world, Merida is still this beautiful and warm place that I don’t regret calling home. I haven’t yet been to Oaxaca (although I’m dying to), but Chiapas is another wonderful state that I think you would love. The food, architecture, nature, activities, landscapes, etcetera are all amazing. It is sadly not the safest state right now (the pandemic has turned people a bit violent from what I hear), but it is my second favourite state after Yucatan.
Thank you for visiting and loving Mexico. I can assure you Mexico loves you back 🙂
NomadicMatt
Awww thanks! 🙂
Tom
I need to go to Oaxaca. I was looking at places to do immersive Spanish and Oaxaca / Puerto Escondido were on my list. Oaxaca had many great reviews. I ended up in Antigua, Guatemala, but couldn’t do the course due to the start of the pandemic. I did pass through Guadalajara on my way home and that city is nice too.
Stephanie Jutt
I studied in an immersive Spanish course at a school in Oaxaca and it was fantastic, and affordable. Matt, I’m thrilled you love Oaxaca – that’s where I spent many happy months on sabbatical from University of Wisconsin-Madison and I have a LOT of friends there in the textile and art world if/when you return! A loyal reader, Stephanie Jutt
Matthew Bailey
My wife and half of my family are from Mexico, so I’ve spent more time there than almost anywhere else. It could easily the the #1 tourism destination in the world. Great food, music, culture, beaches, colonials towns, etc etc.
It’s just a shame it’s become so dangerous as well, especially for locals. I think expats have it easier. As long as you don’t have to make money in Mexico, you’re probably okay. But if you have to actually live there, it’s very, very tough.
Christy
I spent a lot of time in Merida and had a chance to visit the surrounding areas. We rented a car and proceeded to get very lost due to a detour in a very small village, dirt roads….we stopped for directions as me and my friend were pretty proficient in Spanish. We hit a snag though, he was clearly drunk and only spoke Mayan. We did eventually find the highway again. Of course we had a good laugh. I made some great friends in Merida and will be back
Veronika
I’ve been dreaming about Oaxaca ever since I read about the town on Jodi Ettenberg’s blog. And last night I watched a street food show on Netflix that covered Oaxaca – it does look like the place to be, the real Mexiko with the colors, the flavors and the friendly locals. I can’t wait to visit one day!
Stay safe!
NomadicMatt
My next post is on how much I love that specific city! 🙂
Pam
Hi Matt — thank you for keeping us posted as to your travel and home-coming plans. I am so glad that you have fallen in love with Mexico and are sharing that with us. I look forward to learning more about how to appreciate this neighbor. I’m from Texas and am familiar with the magic of Mexico, but in my old age, I admit to being afraid of Mexico — because of law and order issues and corruption issues. I have long wished that this country was a lot more ready for huge tourism, because it is a truly wonderful place. Just think: the geography and climate of Mexico City — high altitude but near the equator — sounds like a perfect place. I would like to retire in Mexico, but have lots of concerns. So thank you again. We are lucky to have your generosity in sharing.
Barbara Winter
Your experience mirrors mine after a trip to San Miguel de Allende. How could I have not know about this magical place sooner? In fact, I’ve never visited a place that continues to keep calling me back like this one. Like you, I wish I had discovered it sooner. So hoping to return.
Baguio
I would love to visit Merida and Oaxaca.
I have a friend from Mexico who studied in the Philippines, he was so humble and kind. very far from the portrayal of Movies and some Documentaries about Mexicans. We’ve become friends after he invited us to his house and prepared a hamburguesa and other Mexican food for us. that very same day, I was hooked on Mexican foods.
We were supposed to visit their place at Oaxaca, but it was postponed due to the restrictions because of the pandemic.
Thank you Matt for sharing such a travel experience, Regards from the Philippines 🙂
Ted Hodoba
I absolutely love Mexico City, especially Zona Roma. It has wonderful cafes and parks. It’s very safe and I never felt threatened going out at all hours. The city has fantastic museums and culture. I cant wait to go back.
Crystal
Was it Monte Alban ruins you visited? You went to Oaxaca as I was leaving and I was told it was closed when I was there. I’d be super bummed if it actually wasn’t but glad you got to see it. If you ever go back and want to do a temazcal, theres one In Xoxocotlán that has pieces of the ruins molded into the stone. It’s pretty incredible
Hannah Jones
Wow good to hear about your travel stories, it is sad that you’re not able to visit Mezcalería La Fundación because of this Pandemic but you’re lucky to see the secret bar. I’ll be waiting for your next blog about moving-in to Mexico. Thanks for the update even during this pandemic. Stay safe!
Renuka Walter
Mexico is, indeed, love. It’s one of the places on earth that fascinates me, weaves stories in my heart. I imagine Mexico in a certain way. I enjoyed reading about it from your perspective. Thank you!
Kevin
Enjoyed this. I will second Oaxaca as an amazing place! We were there for 3 weeks in 2016 and loved it. We spent an equal amount of time in and around Oaxaca city and the coast. A #1 highlight was a village to village trek in the Sierra Norte (not possible now due to COVID). This is an excellent example of low key community based tourism that gave us a real taste of small town life. We happened to be there for Dia de la Revolucion (Nov 20) and got to experience the celebration, with brass bands, children dancing, and fireworks. The coast was top notch as well. Our favourite was Puerto Angel, which is pretty laid back. Puerto Escondido has great beaches too but the city was too big for my tastes. All in all excellent! We had a plan to go to Chiapas last spring but it fizzled. Up next after the pandemic settles down.
Toni
Great post Matt, Mexico is one of my absolute favourite countries to visit. I’ve been so many times. Playa and Tulum were very different when I went for the first time in 2008 and already then I absolutely fell in love with Oaxaca and the Pacific coast around Puerto Escondido. If you go next time check out the bohemian town of San Cristobal de las Casas in Chiapas. You would love it there. We’ve got a travel ban here in the UK now but as soon as that’s lifted I hope to spend a few weeks in Mexico before spring arrives here!