Last Updated: 11/7/20 | November 7th, 2020
Machu Picchu is one of those bucket-list activities people dream about. While most people visit on a day trip, you can also visit via the Inca Trail, a challenging multi-day hike through the jungles of Peru. In this guest post, Gillian divulges the details of her trek while sharing some tips and suggestions to help you plan your trip to Machu Picchu.
Hiking to Machu Picchu along the Inca Trail in Peru remains the highlight of my year traveling. It’s that amazing. Looking out over the peaks of the Andes, and knowing that I hiked to get there, filled me with joy and awe. I didn’t want to be anywhere else. I won’t lie, though — it took some work. A lot of work, in fact. But it was totally worth it.
Sitting some 2,500m above sea level, Machu Picchu was an Inca citadel that was built in the 15th century. The citadel was built as a royal estate, though it was used for less than 100 years before being abandoned when due to the arrival of the Spanish, who were set on conquest.
It wasn’t until 1911 when the ruins were re-discovered by archeologist Hiram Bingham III. While the locals were familiar with the ruins, it wasn’t until Hiram trekked up the mountain for himself that he realized just how spectacular his (re)discovery was.
To slow the damage caused by tourism, the entrance of Machu Picchu is “limited” to 6,534 people per day, divided in morning tickets and afternoon tickets. While that seems like a lot, tickets often sell out months in advance (especially for the hike). For that reason, you’ll want to make sure you plan ahead, do your research, and book early!
Hiking the Inca Trail: Itinerary
To start things off, here is a detailed overview of what the actual hike is actually like:
Day 1
They broke us in easy on the first day with a gentle start along a wide path that passed through the Sacred Valley. Described as “Inca Flat,” the trail starts alongside the Urubamba River and meanders through the trees and scrub brush, slowly gaining altitude.
Our guide, Marco, stopped us at various points along the way to tell us the history of the trail, the ruins along the trail, and also the Incan people and their struggle to survive. Marco was passionate about his ancestors’ story, and as time went on, we realized that he was not just telling us stories that come from guidebooks but that his knowledge was much deeper. He had spent time at university studying and also in the mountains with the Incan descendants and so had a unique perspective on the area.
Day 2
We awake at 5 am to the sounds of hustle and bustle outside. As I rubbed the sleep out of my eyes, a porter appeared with hot tea and another brought a bowl of hot water and soap for me to wash up with. I drank my tea, washed up, and packed up the few things I was responsible for (the porters dismantle and carry everything except your personal belongings).
It was cold as we set out on the day’s hike – frost clung to the sides of the trail and I could see my breath with every labored exhalation. We were already feeling the altitude and still had more than a thousand meters ahead of us. We quickly climbed above the tree line and were rewarded with the stunning views of mountains and valleys that would be our companion for the rest of the day.
The climb to Dead Woman’s Pass was relentless. Up and up and up and up along the ancient Inca pathway made up of enormous stone steps. My heart was beating wildly, my lungs were tight and seemed too small for the task, and my legs felt like cement as I tried to lift them over and over again up onto the next step.
Then it was down the other side – a 600-meter drop along a beautiful stone pathway cutting down into the valley below. If I thought this was going to be the easy part, I was wrong. Controlling those floppy, leaden legs was an exercise in concentration. The afternoon saw us climb another 400 meters before dropping into another valley that was more jungle than scrub. We crossed the valley to find our campsite overlooking a set of astrological ruins.
Fog set in just as the light faded, lending an eerie feel to the landscape but also providing some insulating warmth. After 16 kilometers of hiking through two passes, it didn’t take much of the special “rum tea” to send us all off to a restful night’s sleep.
Day 3
As much as Day 2 was about climbing, Day 3 was about descent — overall we dropped almost 800 meters. I’m not sure which is more difficult, but I know that my legs were sorer after a day of going down than they were after Day 2. This is where the walking stick I had been carrying all along really proved its worth! We dropped backed down through the tree line, entering into jungle-like scenery, where we could start to understand how Machu Picchu was hidden by jungle for so many years.
We shared camp that night as other groups joined up at the campsite before entering the site. We enjoyed much-needed showers and beer before a late dinner and early bedtime. Tomorrow would take us to the Sun Gate and our first glimpses of the lost city.
Day 4
Reaching the Sun Gate was amazing. Looking through it to the sight of Machu Picchu below made all the difficulties of the trek disappear. Sitting on a plateau below, the site looked just as beautiful and mysterious as I had expected.
Wandering around Machu Picchu for the rest of the day, I was left in awe as to how the ancient Incans could have built such a formidable city with no modern machinery. The ingenuity and precision were astounding and the level of detail amazing. The buildings and stonework are stunning displays of form, function, and astounding astronomical and geographic knowledge. Stones are placed or carved, to match exactly with the sun’s winter and summer solstice positions or to line up along the ordinal geographic lines.
Seeing a rock carved into the shape of the Incan Cross and then shown how the points match up with a compass, I was amazed at the knowledge that the Incans must have had. The whole city and the mountain backdrop took my breath away.
Tips for Hiking the Inca Trail
Here are some tips to help you make the most of your trip and avoid some of the more common pitfalls:
- Arrive early – Try to get to Cusco 3-5 days before your hike so you can acclimatize to the altitude before hiking. It will make your hike much easier!
- Use trekking poles – Bring trekking poles or rent them from your tour company. You’ll need them.
- Chew coca leaves – If the altitude is giving you trouble, chew coca leaves. It’s the local remedy and is what many of the guides and porters use. You can chew the leaves or buy coca gum. (You can also get altitude medicine from your doctor before you go. Just keep in mind that it will make you have to pee a lot!).
- Break in your boots – Make sure you buy and break in your footwear at least 1-2 months before your trip. That will help you avoid blisters.
- Bring sunscreen and bug spray – The last thing you want is a sunburn when you’re hiking up a mountain. And the mosquitoes here are plentiful (and their bites are super itchy!) so prepare accordingly and apply both each day.
- Bring Bandaids/Blister kits – Your feet around going to take a beating. Having some minor first aid supplies will help.
- Carry extra snacks – You’ll get plenty of food on the trail, but bringing along some of your favorite snacks is a great morale booster for those challenging sections.
- Go the extra mile – For an amazing view of Machu Picchu, hike the extra hour to Huayna Picchu. It’s a bit of a scramble and the path is quite narrow but the views are worth it!
- Train before you go – This is a challenging hike. You don’t need to be an Olympic athlete to finish it but the more you train the easier your hike will be.
- Don’t expect to shower – Showers are available partway into the hike but the water is painfully cold. Skip the showers and just embrace your well-earned BO.
- Have extra batteries – Bring an external charger for your phone and extra batteries for your camera. It would be tragic to arrive at Machu Picchu and not be able to snap a photo or two!
- Bring earplugs – The Inca Trail can get busy and there will be dozens and dozens of hikers at each camp. Bring earplugs for the noisy nights.
- Consider the Salkantay – For a less-busy route, consider hiking the Salkantay. It has views just as epic and sees 1/3 of the tourists that the Inca Trail does. Plus, it’s a fraction of the price!
- Bring money for the bathroom – Make sure you have some money for the bathroom. There is only one bathroom at Machu Picchu and it will cost a couple of soles.
- Get stamped – You can get your passport stamped with a unique Machu Picchu stamp to commemorate the journey. It makes for a fun souvenir if you have some space in your passport.
- Check your bag – You can only bring a day bag under 20L into Machu Picchu. If your bag is larger than that you’ll need to pay to check it at the gate.
How to Get to Machu Picchu: Prices, Tours, and Logistics
If you don’t plan on hiking the Inca Trail, the easiest way to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu is to take the train to Aguas Calientes. It’s a scenic 3.5-hour trip each through Sacred Valley that leaves from Poroy (which is near Cusco). Tickets range from 275-1,800 PEN ($77-500 USD) depending on how luxurious of a ride you want. The Expedition (which is the cheapest option) is perfectly fine and likely suitable for most travelers. You can buy drinks and snacks and you get a panoramic view.
You’ll need to take a bus from the train station to the gates of Machu Picchu, which will cost around 86 PEN ($24 USD) per person (round trip). Tickets to Machu Picchu cost 235 PEN ($65 USD). If you want to also visit Machu Picchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu you’ll need to buy an extra ticket. Combination tickets for Machu Picchu and either the Machu Picchu Mountain or Huayna Picchu (but not both) will cost 200 PEN ($80 USD).
Both of these additional areas have set times to hike, so you’ll need to plan your trip accordingly.
Discounts are available for students under 25 and children under 18. You can purchase your tickets at Peru’s Ministry of Culture website.
You can buy tickets for Machu Picchu for either a morning entry or an afternoon entry (full-day tickets are not available).
The other way to get from Cusco to Machu Picchu is to walk as part of a multi-day Inca trail tour, which is the far more scenic and rewarding way. Most hikers choose to do the hike over 5 days, though you can opt for less if you don’t have time.
You can also combine the Inca Trail with other hikes if you want something longer and more challenging. Prices will vary depending on how long you hike for and the quality of your gear and guides. Expect to pay anywhere from 2,500-7,000 PEN ($700-$2,000 USD) for a multi-day hike, gear rentals, transportation, and tickets/fees.
Note: Make sure the company you choose pays their porters well and treats them fairly. Porters have an incredibly challenging job so you want to make sure the company you choose is an ethical one. With that in mind, remember you’ll also need some cash to tip your porters. Most estimates range from 17-23 PEN ($5-7 USD) per person per day for each porter, and then 20-33 PEN ($6-10 USD) per person per day for the guides, though your company will likely provide additional tipping guidelines. Tips are paid in the local currency.
My preferred tour company for that is Intrepid Travel. They offer small group tours with local guides and have a small environmental footprint. I’ve been on their tours all around the world and can’t praise them enough!
While hiking the Inca Trail is no easy feat, it is definitely worth the effort. The well-earned views you take in as you hike combined with the incredible vistas and history of Machu Picchu itself make this a once in a lifetime experience worthy of any bucket list. No visit to Peru is complete without seeing Machu Picchu, and the best way to do that is via the Inca Trail — one step at a time!
Book Your Trip to Peru: Logistical Tips and Tricks
Book Your Flight
Use Skyscanner or Momondo to find a cheap flight. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned. Start with Skyscanner first though because they have the biggest reach!
Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as they have the biggest inventory and best deals. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. My favorite places to stay are:
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:
- World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
- Insure My Trip (for those over 70)
- Medjet (for additional repatriation coverage)
Looking for the Best Companies to Save Money With?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel. I list all the ones I use to save money when I’m on the road. They will save you money when you travel too.
Want More Information on Peru?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Peru for even more planning tips!
Andi
So awesome!!! I wish that I had had the time to do when I was there.
kitty
That is really terrific experience on hiking for relax.So wonderful !
Eric
Sounds like such an amazing trip. Thanks for sharing.
ayngelina
This post makes me really excited to go in October. I did choose to just show up and do one of the smaller trails and hopefully it’s just as good.
Gillian
@Ayngelina: I’m sure that any of the trails in the region will be as magical as the Inca Trail. The whole area is awash in history and beauty and awe. Enjoy! I can’t wait to read about it.
NomadicMatt
I’m jealous! Take me with you!
Matt
Same lol
Marina K. Villatoro
Wow that sounds like quite an adventure. I can totally see why it’s the highlight of your traveling year.
anca
This just made me even more anxious to get there. I’ve succeeded in making a trip to Mayan sites in Mexico and to Iguazu in Argentina but I’ve been dreaming for sometime now of making this Inca journey. A little more difficult from Europe but… some day….
Felipe
Nice write up, I just published a guide to the Inca Trail myself, – you wait for a bus then 3 come along at the same time – it’s got a few pointers about the alternative trails and tips on fitness/etiquette/porters. Hopefully it’ll be useful to someone…
Quick note that for people doing the classic trek – booking months in advance is recommended. Alternative trails are less booked up. And if you don’t have enough time to book the trek you can always hop on a train to Aguas Calientes at the base of Machu Picchu.
Michael Tyson
Wow, Incan descendants! Now that’s pretty cool.
Marcello
It really must be something else to be able to see that! Great post I plan on heading there next year in May or so
Sarah
Sounds like your guide was the perfect asset to your journey. I find that it’s often not only the beautiful places you see but also the people you meet that make your experience that much more meaningful.
Sunee
Sounds amazing! I’ve been wanting to do this for a while now. Thanks for the write-up 🙂
Terri
I always wonder what life would have been like living in that city, with such a spectacular view around you every day. Were there loads of tourists? I hate visiting ancient sites filled with modern people. Spoils the mood 🙂
NP
Beautiful post! I’ve been wanting to do this for quite awhile now. Hopefully next year!
tasha
I was wondering what company you booked your trip under. Its so impossible to find blogs about how to get to the point that your going to hike to machu picchu, and they only say how the actual hike is, not the travel process/cost analysis to get there
David Moran
My daughter and I are doing the IncaTrail this year. Can’t wait!!! I did it 11 years ago.
Lisa
Hi Matt, I was wondering, which company did you hike with?
Maria M
what company did you book your tour with? What should i pack?
Steven Lawrence
This has always been on our bucket list! Hiking is one of our favorite things to do when we travel, and this would take the cake!
Thanks for the post, and keep em coming!
Steven
Shannon
Forgive me if you have already stated this information, but What time of year did you go? Did you go with a tour company? If so, whom?
-Shannon
sofia palomino
A great journey for something considered one of the top 5 walking tours worldwide, the Inca Trail to the Inca citadel of Machu Picchu.
Nikki
I only ever did the short one day hike – I cannot wait to go back and do a longer one. Machu Picchu and Peru call my name everyday! It is such a beautiful country!
Prinivin
My dream is to do this
Emilie
Hi Matt, I am planning on going April 2017 to do the 4 day trek. who did you book it with if you can remember thanks!
Colette B
Your post has got me and my husband very excited to go in March to Peru with Alpaca Expeditions
Angie
Hi Matt,
I agree with everything EXCEPT the recommendation to use Intrepid. I’ve taken several tours with Intrepid, and they are my favorite international tour agency, but they are NOT the right choice for the Inca trail.
You HAVE to use a Peruvian company to ensure the money stays within Peru. Non-Peruvian companies do not pay taxes in Peru, and therefore the money doesn’t stay within the country. Also, I didn’t even see Intrepid on the trail, so they must have had far inferior campsites.
I used a local company called Llama Path. They were at the “front” of the line – We were literally first on the trek to reach the Sun Gate on the final day. We had great food. AND our porters were put up in the “porter hotel” – Porters travel from throughout Peru to perform this job, and betweek treks are often homeless in Cusco. This was not the case for our porters, who were housed by the company. There were other local companies – SAS, “The Green Army”, I heard G Adventures does not treat their guides well (from trek staffers), which turned me off to the company.
It’s really important to pick a good LOCAL trekking company, especially because Peru and the wonderful Peruvians should benefit more from visitor’s money, but the country isn’t currently set up that way!
Katherine Finch
We have a small team about 8/9 members when we are free we go for hiking. I am really so interested to know about the inca trail hiking and find the all details in your blog. Really it’s pleasure for me to find your blog.
Jesus
Hi Matt! Very well resumed post! We were visiting Peru two years ago but unfortunately we could not take this inca rail. We prepared everything with not too much time in advance and it was impossible to take free places! For sure we will come back sooner than late to do it, by now we are reading about! Have a good day!