The Saturday City: Singapore
Singapore wasn’t exactly like I thought it was be. Given its image as a hyper-clean, hyper-lawful place, I expected a very regimented, orderly, clean, and police heavy city. I found none of that. In fact, in three days wandering the city, I never once saw anything that looked like a police officer or even a security guard. Maybe it is the fear of reprisal that keeps people in line. Laws in Singapore are harsh- very harsh, which is probably why there is no need to keep a large police presence on the street.
Despite not living up to my police state expectations, the city was a lot of fun. Singapore is often described as a three day city as most people hit the few main sites and think there isn’t anything else. While the city didn’t scream exciting, crazy, or action packed, one could easily spend a week in Singapore in still find much to do, you just have to keep your eye out.
Singapore can be walked in a solid day or a leisurely two. There’s as good mix of colonial style buildings, low rise houses, and high rise modern office towers. The wide streets, clean air, and large buildings make for a very nice walk. You can walk from Little Arabia to Chinatown in about 45 minutes and that stretch pretty much encompasses most of the central area of the city. If you want to get adventurous, you could walk out into the suburbs but there’s no real reason too. Singapore gets very hot and, luckily, there is a whole underground network of malls and “streets” that connects the downtown area. You can stay cool, do a bit of shopping, do some eating, and just meander until your ready to hit the mean streets again.
Besides being known for strict rules, Singapore is known for its food and it is foodie paradise. Little India and Chinatown are two of the most famous foodie parts of the city. You’ll find great dim sum, noodles, beef, and other Chinese delicacies in Chinatown. The dim sum is excellent. Over in Little 
India, you’ll find a little slice of India in Asia. From what I’ve been told, it’s the closest you can get to India without actually being there. We had some amazing food. Try the places on the main street where everyone eats with their hand. It’s an enjoyable experience. Just make sure you know whether it is OK to eat with your hands. Otherwise, the proprietors will start to give you dirty looks if you dig in with your hand and not the silverware they provide. Not that I speak from experience or anything. For your final meal, head to what I dub “Little Arabia.” A section of town near the Mosque that is filled with great Malay and Arab food. If you are looking for more high end food, there are tons of restaurants all over the city. I was stopping every few minutes going “mmmm that menu looks good.” The city is a gastronomical dream.
The big attraction in Singapore is the Zoo. Singapore’s Zoo is famous for its breadth as well as its natural habitats and good animal treatment. The Zoo is a bit outside the city center and takes about an hour by 
public transport but is worth it. There are lions, and tigers, and bears for around the world, as well as elephants, zebras, monkeys, and much more. The animals aren’t kept behind bars but are separated by large gulleys, making it better environment for everyone. This, however, doesn’t keep the monkey’s in one place and you can see the swinging all over the zoo.This makes for a much more natural experience and allows you to really get up close to see the animals. There’s also an excellent night safari where you can see some of the creatures of the night, like annoying tourists who don’t listen and use their flash. Both adventures will hit the wallet hard (Expect a day, with food, to cost about 60 Singapore dollars) but, if you only do one thing in Singapore, this would the thing to do.
For those wanting some “excitement”, Sentosa Island just south of the mainland (connected via the train) is a good place to see an underwater aquarium, party on the beach, live in luxury, and hang out with dolphins. I didn’t make it there for lack of time but all the big clubs are located there, a few big hotels, a beach, and some parks. Every December they also host one of the biggest parties in Southeast Asia- ZoukOut. It’s all night beach rave. Clearly, you can have some fun in Singapore.
I love singapore..been there four times and once even spent a week on work..I was actually canning stories on singapore and we had loads of fun..even if it was such hard work
By the way, just saw yr question on my blog…yes, its customary to eat with the hands and most of us still eat in the same fashion in our homes, while spoons and forks are used in restaurants or formal dinners or parties. .But I would still prefer eating dry items like rotis and chapathis (Indian breads ) with my hand..
I am now craving dim sum. I blame you.
Thank you for the quick and interesting tour of Singapore.
It is Christmas this period, the lightings are up, the good food are there, so enjoy taking great pictures! Have a happy holiday!
Thanks Matt, I will go to Singapore in January and I will definitely visit the zoo and maybe Sentosa Island.
OK, you had me at the food, but the zoo really clinched the deal. What do you think about bringing children there? If I were planning a trip to Asia (I’m working on convincing DH this is a good idea) would this be a good place to stop?
Pity we couldn’t meet up when you were here. Let me know when you make a stop here in Singapore again!
Then we can head to Sentosa, or even the clubs.
I think the street food is amongst the best in the world - Newton Circus, Boat & Clark Quays, Little India, East Coast and many more. The chilli crab is to die for. I never liked Sentosa when I went there - something too artifical about it. Their bird park is pretty good too, somewhere out towards the zoo I think.
As you read in my accounts, you can actually get in a decent pub-crawl along the river, right there in Singapore.
Other highlights were drinking a grossly over-priced Singapore Sling where it was invented - at the Long Bar at the Raffles Hotel (did you check out the Writers Bar there?) and finding out that I would not get arrested for chewing gum.
I adored Singapore. Part of that, I think, was that I was living and working in Beijing at the time, and it was -25°C, and Singapore was +25°C, and it was glorious.
Singapore is also a Western enough city that I had the excitement of French cheese and bookstores and films in proper cinemas that I didn’t have in Beijing. I had the most wonderful evening picnicking on top of Mount Faber, having ridden the cablecar up there.
And, interestingly, I found that the gay nightlife in Singapore was pretty good, despite the fact that actual gay sex is illegal in Singapore.
It is now on my list of places to experience in my lifetime. What an idyllic place.
Hi,
That was an interesting and yet a quick trip info about Singapore.
Thanks for the additional info about the zoo.
Regards
Hey Matt, I don’t suppose you managed to cover the Night Safari, did you? I put it off for quite some time before giving it a visit before heading towards London. It was surprisingly refreshing. According to a pal who works there, lots of effort has been put into making it less restrictive for the animals thus improving the overall experience.
And oh… I love Arab Street. Nothing beats a nice cool evening out there with pals over a cup of teh tarik (froth tea with condensed milk). Hmmm….
@John,
Ironically, S’pore is chasing the pink dollar despite making homosexuality illegal (as you have pointed out). However, there is some effort by the gay community to legalize their status of late.
Cheers,
C K