Sri Lanka was a wonderful surprise. I didn’t know what to expect going into my trip, but I ended up loving every bit of it.
It is a divided country, with the south dominated by Buddhist Sinhalese and the north by Hindu Tamils. After the British left in 1948, the Sinhalese controlled the government and enacted a series of laws that limited Tamil participation in society. Eventually, Tamil protests escalated and a 26-year civil war ensued, only ending in 2009.
Though it has been some time since then, Sri Lanka is still very much recovering — but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t visit. In fact, my time there was especially memorable due to my experiences meeting and getting to know the incredibly friendly locals. No matter where I went, Sri Lankans welcomed me with kindness and open arms.
Traveling around Sri Lanka is relatively easy and very budget-friendly. English is widely spoken, so once you get used to the chaos, it isn’t too difficult to get around.
With that in mind, here’s my Sri Lanka travel guide so that you can save money, have fun, and make the most of your visit to this beautiful country!
A note on prices and currencies: Costs for attractions in this guide are in USD, while costs for restaurants and accommodations are in LKR. This is to most accurately represent the currency in which you will see prices. Foreign visitors are charged a different price from locals at most attractions, quoted in USD. Registered tourist establishments are required to accept only foreign currency from nonresidents, as part of a governmental scheme to build up the country’s reserves of stronger currencies.
Table of Contents
Top 5 Things to See and Do in Sri Lanka
1. Tour a tea estate
When the British colonized the island in the early 19th century, they quickly realized that the central highlands had the perfect climate and topography for growing tea. One of the largest, lasting impacts of colonialism is that a significant portion of the country is still covered in tea plantations or estates.
The town of Hatton is known as the tea capital of Sri Lanka, as it’s the central point of a few regions where the plant is still plucked by hand (and one of the few places in the world where this still occurs). Going on a plantation or factory tour is a great way to learn about this integral part of the country’s economy and culture. Tours are often free, though if there is a fee, it’s only around 250 LKR. Tours usually include a tea tasting at the end.
2. See the wildlife at Yala National Park
This is Sri Lanka’s second-largest and most popular national park. It’s well known for its abundant wildlife, especially the elephants and leopards that make their home here. In fact, it’s the best place in the world to try to spot leopards, as it has the highest density of them! The area is culturally significant as well, with two important Buddhist pilgrim sites, Sithulpahuwa and Magul Vihara, located within the park. Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims visit these sites each year. While a guide isn’t required to enter the park, joining a safari led by an experienced local guide is the best way to experience Yala, as you’ll be able to ask questions as they point out animals to you. Safaris are quite affordable too, starting at just 8,600 LKR.
3. Hike Sigiriya Rock
Also known as Lion’s Rock, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is the country’s most famous tourist attraction. In the fifth century, Sri Lankan ruler King Kashyapa decided to build his fortress on this massive column of granite rock. While it was abandoned shortly after his death, its remote location meant that the palace remained untouched over the centuries, and today it remains a fascinating example of ancient urban planning.
You can hike to the top for stunning views over the lush landscapes below; it takes an hour to walk up, as it’s single file all the way. As it’s one of the most popular things to do in Sri Lanka, you won’t have this place to yourself. Get there when it opens at 6:30am to avoid huge lines. If you are there after 10am, the crowds are so overwhelming, it’s not worth visiting. Admission is $30 USD (guided day trips from Kandy that also include visits to the cave temples of Dambulla are $70 USD).
Pro tip: if you’re on a budget, climb Pidurangala Rock instead. It’s much cheaper (500 LKR), plus you’ll actually get views of Sigiriya Rock itself! (Just note that the trail does involve some scrambling at times, while the trail to the top of Sigiriya is steep but easier, with metal steps and staircases.)
4. Take the train
The British built the Sri Lankan railway system in 1864 to transport tea and coffee from plantations to Colombo, where these goods were then shipped out internationally. The train lines are still in use and provide a scenic way to explore the country. There are three main lines, but the ride from Kandy to Ella is widely considered one of the most beautiful in the world. It lasts seven hours and takes you through lush mountains, tropical forests, and endless tea plantations; the picturesque 20th-century Nine Arches Bridge is on this route as well.
If you’d like to take this journey, it’s best to book with a travel agency in advance as seats sell out quickly. Just adjust your expectations regarding timeliness and speed. Don’t be in a hurry when riding the rails in Sri Lanka!
5. Visit Anuradhapura
Anuradhapura was the very first capital of Sri Lanka and remained so for around 1,300 years. Today, many of the old ruins still survive and have been restored to their former glory. This archaeological complex and UNESCO site contains many of Buddhism’s holiest places, including Jaya Sri Maha Bodhi, the fig tree where it is believed that the Buddha himself obtained enlightenment. It’s also home to Jetavanaramaya Dagaba, which at 122 meters (400 feet) is the world’s tallest stupa. Most people either rent a bicycle or hire a tuk-tuk to take them around the complex. Admission to the five main temples is $25 USD, though there are many smaller temples and sites that are either free or just a couple of dollars.
Other Things to See and Do
1. Visit Kandy
The country’s second-largest city was also the last capital of Sri Lanka’s monarchy, the Kingdom of Kandy, which arose in the late 16th century and resisted both Dutch and Portuguese rule before finally succumbing to British colonization in the early 19th century. Kandy is known for its well-preserved historic colonial center (now a UNESCO site), as well as the Buddhist shrine the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic (supposedly an actual tooth of the Buddha). Many visitors come here because it’s the starting point for the scenic train to Ella, but make sure to spend a few days exploring the bustling streets, enjoying Kandy Lake, and wandering through the Royal Botanic Gardens of Peradeniya, the nation’s biggest and most impressive botanical garden.
2. Explore Ella
If you take Sri Lanka’s most scenic train ride, you’ll end up in the town of Ella, which, though small, is a popular destination. Even if you don’t take the train to get here, the iconic Nine Arches railway bridge is one of the biggest attractions in the entire country. You can get to the lookout by hiking through the forest, and then waiting for a train to go by if you want that iconic “Sri Lankan postcard” shot. Other things to see and do here include traversing the surrounding rainforests to see stunning waterfalls, hiking Little Adam’s Peak or Ella Rock, and visiting the endless tea plantations.
3. Travel up north
After decades of war, the north has a legacy of destruction that has yet to go away. For that reason, most travelers focus on the southern half of Sri Lanka, with its plentiful hiking and charming beach towns. But seeing the north gave me a more nuanced perspective on a portion of the country without hordes of other tourists. In fact, in my time there, I saw only four Westerners.
As the area is mainly Hindu, you’ll find lots of beautiful temples here, including the impressive Nallur Kandaswamy in Jaffna. The north also offers beautiful yet uncrowded beaches, a plethora of tranquil islands to explore, and delicious food with a strong southern Indian influence.
4. See the temples
Sri Lanka has an astonishing number of impressive temples. Everywhere you go, there’s a beautiful temple! Some of the most famous include Temple of the Tooth (in Kandy), Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam and Gangaramaya (both in Colombo), Dambulla Cave Temple (in Dambulla), and Nallur Kandaswamy Temple (in Jaffna).
When visiting, be sure to dress appropriately, as these are active places of worship. Also, bring flip-flops to temples, since you’ll have to take your socks and shoes off before going inside. Entrance fees range from free to around $10 USD.
5. Take a cooking class
While I didn’t know much about the country’s food before arriving, I quickly became hooked on the delicious curries of Sri Lankan cuisine. Colombo Cooking Class offers three-hour sessions in which you make 10 dishes, including curries, coconut sambol, and papadam. The class takes place in the owner’s home, and it really feels like you’re learning to cook with a friend! The cost is around 20,000 LKR.
6. Hit the beaches
Since it’s a huge island, Sri Lanka’s coastline spans over 1,340 kilometers (830 miles), meaning there are countless beaches to enjoy. There are white-sand shores to stroll on, coral reefs perfect for snorkeling, picturesque sunsets to admire, and breaks great for surfing. No matter what you’re into, there’s a beach for you in Sri Lanka.
Arugam Bay and Mirissa Beach are some of the most well known, mainly as world-famous surfing destinations, but they both have nice beach towns to visit even if you don’t surf.
7. Day trip to Galle
Founded in the late 16th century by the Portuguese and later conquered by the Dutch in the mid-17th century, Galle (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is a beautifully preserved old fort town that’s worth a visit. A visit here is best spent just wandering around, admiring the Dutch colonial buildings, walking the perimeter of the old fort, shopping at the artisanal craft stores (or taking a workshop to learn how to make jewelry in the traditional style), touring the National Maritime Museum, and eating fresh seafood.
But as that’s about the extent of what there is to do, I recommend visiting Galle as a day trip from Colombo rather than staying overnight. It’s super easy, as you can take the train directly, which takes about two hours.
8. Climb Adam’s Peak
Adam’s Peak is Sri Lanka’s most sacred mountain and an important pilgrimage destination. Hindus and Buddhists believe the mountain is the footstep of Shiva and the Buddha, respectively, while Muslims and Christians revere it as the first place Adam stepped on earth after his ousting from the Garden of Eden.
But even if you aren’t religious, trekking to the top of Adam’s Peak is a rewarding experience for both the challenge of the ascent and the magnificent views. It is a steep climb, with over 5,000 steps to get to the top, though there are many teahouses to stop at along the way. Most hikers start their climb from the village of Dalhousie around 2am in order to reach the top by sunrise. Depending on your fitness level, the entire journey takes around 5-7 hours.
9. Go whale watching
While countries like Iceland get all the press for whale watching, Sri Lanka is actually one of the best places to view these awe-inspiring creatures. Many species — including the blue whale, the largest animal on earth — migrate annually around the southern tip of the island, swimming closer to shore here than anywhere else in the world.
Mirissa Beach is the best place to depart from, and there are many operators offering tours. Be sure to go with a company that adheres to responsible international whale watching standards, which include stipulations like not getting too close, not feeding the whales, etc. I recommend Raja and the Whales, where an adult ticket is around 20,000 LKR.
10. Explore Colombo
As the country’s capital and location of its major international airport, you’ll undoubtedly be flying in and out of Colombo. This busy city is a bit of everything, with modern cafés and bistros right next to traditional Buddhist and Hindu temples. It’s worth spending a couple days here, getting your bearings and enjoying the cultural offerings.
In addition to taking a walking tour (always my favorite activity to do when I arrive somewhere), don’t miss visiting impressive spiritual sites like the Red Masjid (mosque), Sri Kailawasanathan Swami Devasthanam Temple, and Gangaramaya Temple; learning some history at the National Museum; experiencing the floating Pettah Market; and, of course, sampling the city’s wide variety of cuisines.
Sri Lanka Travel Costs
Sri Lanka is cheap to visit. Even when you splurge, it’s not that expensive, especially if you stick to delicious local cuisine, travel on trains and buses, and don’t go crazy with your accommodation.
Accommodation – There is a lot of cheap accommodation throughout the country (and a growing number of hostels), though they’re really basic, with just a fan, mosquito net, and shower. At 2,000-4,000 LKR per dorm bed, you can’t go wrong though. Private rooms in hostels start around 6,500 LKR.
Guesthouses are more plentiful and affordable, with private rooms that have an en-suite bathroom starting at 5,000 LKR per night. Two-star budget hotels start around 8,000 LKR. In both cases, you’ll usually get free breakfast and Wi-Fi too.
You can find some unique Airbnbs in Sri Lanka, though they tend to be pricey. Prices range from 7,000 LKR per night for tree houses and cabins to 25,000 LKR and up for villas and larger properties. Most of the midrange options on Airbnb are hotels and guesthouses.
Food – Incredibly flavorful and packed with fragrant spices, Sri Lankan food is influenced by the culture and cuisines of foreign traders from all over the world. Middle Eastern, Indian, Portuguese, and Dutch flavors are particularly common due to trading routes and the country’s colonial history.
Cinnamon and black pepper are the two most important spices, though cardamom, pandan leaf, and lemongrass feature heavily too. Sri Lankan cuisine can be quite spicy, and dozens of types of peppers are grown and used on the island.
And, as an island nation, it should come as no surprise that fresh seafood plays a major role in many Sri Lankan dishes. Maldives fish (cured tuna produced in the Maldives) is a staple flavoring element. Coconut and rice are also two ubiquitous ingredients that you’ll find on the table at every meal and part of many street snacks.
Popular dishes include various curries (including fish, crab, or lentil), biryani (meat, fish, or vegetables cooked with rice and seasoned), pittu (cylinders of rice flour mixed with grated coconut), kiribath (rice cooked in coconut milk), roti (flatbread made from wheat flour), wattalapam (rich pudding made with coconut milk, jaggery, cashews, eggs, and spices), kottu (roti, meat curry, scrambled egg, onions, and chilies, chopped together with a cleaver on a hot griddle), appam (a thin pancake made with fermented rice batter and coconut milk), lamprais (rice cooked in stock, accompanied by meatballs, and baked in a banana leaf), breudher (a Dutch holiday biscuit), and bolo fiado (Portuguese-style layer cake).
Besides being delicious, food is also really cheap here. At a casual traditional restaurant, starters and snacks like roti or dosa are 240-550 LKR, while biryani costs 450-900 (depending on the meat chosen), and a typical curry dish costs 550-950 LKR. A fast-food combo meal is 750 LKR.
At restaurants with table service or for a more “Western” meal, a pizza is 2,500-3,500 LKR, a pasta dish is 1,500-2,200, and a burger is around 1,100-1,500 LKR. At an upscale restaurant, fish or crab curry is 3,500-4,000 LKR, while a chicken or vegetable curry is 1,000-1,500 LKR.
A bottle of water is 100-150 LKR, a cappuccino is 600 LKR, and a beer is around 500-600 LKR, though don’t expect too many chances to drink alcohol. Outside the coastal touristy beach towns and the capital of Colombo, there isn’t much nightlife or opportunity to drink. While you can always crack a beer at your guesthouse, Sri Lanka isn’t home to a big drinking/nightlife culture.
Some of my favorite restaurants were Balaji Dosai and the Slightly Chilled Bar in Kandy; Ahinsa in Sigiriya; and Upali’s and the Ministry of Crab in Colombo. The last one is an expensive seafood restaurant, but the food is delicious! Sri Lankan crab is famous worldwide — and gigantic. It’s not cheap, but sometimes you just have to treat yourself.
Backpacking Sri Lanka: Suggested Budgets
On a backpacking budget of 9,700 LKR per day, you can stay in a hostel, eat cheap meals like street food (with limited drinking), use public transportation to get around, and do free activities like walking tours, hiking, and hanging out at beaches.
On a midrange budget of 18,000 LKR per day, you can stay in a guesthouse or private room in a hostel or Airbnb, eat out for most meals, drink more, take taxis to get around, and do more paid activities like museum visits or whale watching.
On an upscale budget of 35,000 LKR or more per day, you can stay in a hotel or private Airbnb, eat out pretty much anywhere you want, drink at the bar, rent a tuk-tuk or car to get around, and do as many guided tours and activities as you want. This is just the ground floor for luxury though. The sky is the limit!
You can use the chart below to get some idea of how much you need to budget daily, depending on your travel style. Keep in mind these are daily averages — some days you’ll spend more, some days you’ll spend less (you might spend less every day). We just want to give you a general idea of how to make your budget. Prices are in LKR.
Sri Lanka Travel Guide: Money-Saving Tips
Sri Lanka is very affordable, but there are still plenty of ways to help keep your costs low. Here are my top money-saving tips for traveling in Sri lanka:
- Get your visa in advance – You’ll need to get a visa for entry into the country. You can do this either online starting three days before you arrive, or upon arrival. It’s slightly cheaper if you do it ahead of time, plus you’ll skip the lines at the airport.
- Eat the local food – Outside of the major cities of Colombo and Kandy, you won’t find many non-Sri Lankan or non-Indian food options. What you do find is overpriced, subpar Western food that’s more often than not a chain. Skip it and stick to the local cuisine.
- Bring a water bottle – You shouldn’t really drink the water in Sri Lanka. And since the weather here is really hot, you’ll need to buy a lot of bottled water to stay hydrated (you’ll probably spend 300 LKR per day on plastic bottles of water). Instead, bring a reusable water bottle with a filter instead to save money and reduce your plastic use. LifeStraw is my go-to brand as its bottles have built-in filters to ensure that your water is always clean and safe.
- Stay with a local – Couchsurfing is a great way to save money on accommodation while also getting some insight from residents. You might have better luck in the larger cities, but be sure to request early, as they also see the most requests.
- Visit in off or shoulder seasons – Visit during monsoon season or shoulder season to save money. Even though you will experience some rain, it doesn’t rain 24/7, and you’ll still be able to get out and explore.
Where to Stay in Sri Lanka
Guesthouses are the most common and affordable option in Sri Lanka, though there is a growing number of hostels here too. Here are my recommended places to stay around the country:
- C1 Colombo Fort (Colombo)
- Palitha Home Stay (Sigiriya)
- Jaye’s Home Stay (Kandy)
- Backpacker Galle Hostel (Galle)
How to Get Around Sri Lanka
Bus – This is the cheapest and most widely used way to get around the country, though it can be a very crowded and at times harrowing experience. There are two types of buses: red Sri Lanka Transport Board (SLTB) buses that are run by the state, and blue, pink, or green buses that are run by private companies. Private buses tend to be more crowded, as there are more seats, and drivers try to cram on as many passengers as possible.
Since you’ll most likely be flying in and/or out of Colombo, the blue Colombo Express Bus is the cheapest and easiest way to get from the airport to the city center. It’s just 110 LKR (the same price as the regular bus), leaves every 30 minutes (5:30am–8:30pm), and takes about an hour. In town, it stops at (and leaves from) the Central Bus Stand, Pettah Fort, and Colombo Fort Station. Alternatively, a taxi is about 2,700 LKR.
Tuk-tuk – All throughout Sri Lanka, you can hire drivers cheaply. Any tuk-tuk driver will let you hire them for the day, for around 10,000 LKR. Moreover, they are pretty honest — except in Colombo, where they may try to scam and overcharge you. Elsewhere in the country, you’ll get a fair deal, so there’s no need to try to bargain hard.
Ridesharing – Uber is available only in Colombo and is often more expensive than taxis, especially during rush hours. PickMe is a local taxi-hailing app that you can also use to hire tuk-tuks.
Train – Train travel, while slower, is the most scenic and culturally immersive way to get around Sri Lanka (plus, the island is so small that taking an expensive short flight doesn’t make sense). Sri Lanka Railways runs all trains, and you can find schedules and make reservations on its website.
There are a variety of classes from which to choose: first, second, third, and reserved or unreserved (third class doesn’t have reserved seating and doesn’t sell out). Seat reservations can only be made up to 30 days prior to departure.
Some typical train routes and their approximate prices include the following:
- Colombo to Jaffna (7–8 hours): 2,250 LKR
- Jaffna to Anuradhapura (2.5–3.5 hours): 1,600 LKR
- Kandy to Nuwara Eliya (3.5–4 hours): 2,500 LKR
- Colombo to Galle (2 hours): 1,600 LKR
For more details on train travel in Sri Lanka, I recommend The Man in Seat 61. It’s the best resource for train travel information.
Flying – As Sri Lanka is a relatively small island, flying domestically doesn’t make much sense. There is only one airline that even offers domestic routes (Cinnamon Air) and those are expensive, starting at 77,000 LKR for a 30-minute flight. Skip the flights.
Hitchhiking – Hitchhiking is not common here, though it is a bit easier for backpackers as the super friendly locals are curious and ready to pick up travelers. Don’t expect to come across drivers that speak English, though. If you can, have someone write you a sign in Sinhalese and Tamil. For more hitchhiking tips and information, Hitchwiki is a great resource.
When to Go to Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is effected by two different monsoon seasons, so if you want the best weather during your trip, you’ll want to keep that in mind.
If you want to visit the beaches in the south and west, go December through March. April to September is best for visiting the north and east.
The good news is that temperatures stay fairly consistent throughout the year. Coastal regions generally have average temperatures of 25-30°C (77-86°F) while in the highlands you can expect an average of 17-19°C (63-66°F).
While there is a lot of rain during monsoon season, it doesn’t rain 24/7 so you can still enjoy the country. But no matter when you visit, make sure to bring a rain coat just in case.
How to Stay Safe
Sri Lanka is a safe place to backpack and travel — even if you’re a solo traveler. Violent attacks against tourists are rare. Petty theft is the most common type of crime, especially around popular tourist landmarks. Always keep your valuables out of reach on public transportation, in crowds, and at the beach, just to be safe. A little vigilance goes a long way here since most thefts are crimes of opportunity.
The main scam to watch out for is paying the “tourist tax” (elevated prices for travelers). If you’re worried about others, read this blog post about major travel scams to avoid.
Solo female travelers should generally feel safe, though verbal (and at times physical) harassment unfortunately occurs more often here than in other countries. It’s a good idea to dress conservatively and avoid walking around alone at night.
Other issues that you may encounter involve civil unrest and the current economic crisis. Stay aware of any demonstrations that may be occurring (usually in Colombo). While they are generally peaceful, like anywhere, there is the potential for these protests becoming violent. Steer clear to avoid getting caught in the middle.
Also be aware that shortages of supplies are common, and fuel is currently being rationed. If you need medications, bring a full supply with you.
Make copies of your personal documents, including your passport and ID. Forward your itinerary along to loved ones so they’ll know where you are.
If you do experience an emergency, dial 119.
The most important piece of advice I can offer is to purchase good travel insurance. It protects you against illness, injury, theft, and cancelations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong unexpectedly. I never go on a trip without it, as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. You can use the widget below to find the policy right for you:
Sri Lanka Travel Guide: The Best Booking Resources
These are my favorite companies to use when I travel. They consistently have the best deals, offer world-class customer service and great value, and overall, are better than their competitors. They are the companies I use the most and are always the starting point in my search for travel deals.
- Skyscanner – Skyscanner is my favorite flight search engine. They search small websites and budget airlines that larger search sites tend to miss. They are hands down the number one place to start.
- Hostelworld – This is the best hostel accommodation site out there with the largest inventory, best search interface, and widest availability.
- Booking.com – The best all around booking site that constantly provides the cheapest and lowest rates. They have the widest selection of budget accommodation. In all my tests, they’ve always had the cheapest rates out of all the booking websites.
- Get Your Guide – Get Your Guide is a huge online marketplace for tours and excursions. They have tons of tour options available in cities all around the world, including everything from cooking classes, walking tours, street art lessons, and more!
- SafetyWing – Safety Wing offers convenient and affordable plans tailored to digital nomads and long-term travelers. They have cheap monthly plans, great customer service, and an easy-to-use claims process that makes it perfect for those on the road.
- LifeStraw – My go-to company for reusable water bottles with built-in filters so you can ensure your drinking water is always clean and safe.
- Unbound Merino – They make lightweight, durable, easy-to-clean travel clothing.
- Top Travel Credit Cards – Points are the best way to cut down travel expenses. Here’s my favorite point earning credit cards so you can get free travel!
Sri Lanka Travel Guide: Related Articles
Want more info? Check out all the articles I’ve written on Sri Lanka travel and continue planning your trip: