Madagascar Travel Guide

1. Relax at Île Sainte Marie

While everyone goes to Nosy Be for the fancier resorts, if you want something a little more local, cheaper, and more relaxed, check out Île Sainte Marie. Located off the eastern coast, this former pirate capital (the 17th-century pirate Captain Kidd’s ship sank nearby) is a funky, relaxed island full of little coves, a pirate graveyard, and delicious seafood. The beaches aren’t as good as Nosy Be but there’s a beautiful white-sand beach in the south of the island that few people visit. This is also the best part of the country for whale watching. Round-trip flights here cost around 810,000 MGA. (Don’t take the boat, it’s slow and terribly inconvenient).

2. See Ranomafana National Park

This is one of the best spots in the country to see lemurs as it’s home to twelve different species of them. Besides lemurs, there are the famous giraffe beetles as well as lots of birds, chameleons, over 130 species of frogs, and other wildlife to see. Of the multiple trails available, I would do the morning hike, then the afternoon and night hikes at the secondary entrance (a guide is required for these). The majority of tours skip the latter hikes, so if you do them, you’ll get more of the park to yourself. Due to the park’s popularity, there’s a daily limit on the number of people who can visit so it’s best to go in the low season. Admission is 22,000 MGA per day and guides cost between 80,000-120,000 MGA.

3. Visit Toliara

This small west-coast town is famous for its expats, pizza (a seriously popular dish in the country), and for being a launching pad for diving excursions to the Great Reef offshore. There’s not much else to do except sit by the beach and relax. Driving here on the N7 (the only north-south highway) is also pretty amazing as you can take in Ranomafana National Park, Isalo National Park, and other stunning vistas along the way! A single dive costs 180,000 MGA.

4. Explore Antananarivo

The capital of Madagascar, known as Tana for short, it’s a gritty city with terrible traffic — but there’s a lot of history and culture here that make a short visit worthwhile. See the lemur park and the Rova (the old palace), get a sense of the international scene in the city and use it as your launching pad for stops further afield.

5. Try zebu

Zebu is a type of cow with a large hump on its back. It’s more of a work animal, like an ox, and you’ll see them all over the country (they are even used as dowries in weddings). It’s the only kind of beef here, and it is always on the menu (along with healthy portions of rice). The meat is really tough (thanks to all the work the animals do in the fields) and so it’s best in a stew. Be sure to try it while you’re here!

6. Drive the N5

Heading north along the east coast from Toamasina to Maroantsetra, this road — and I use the word “road” loosely — is a potholed-filled expedition through some of the rawest and most pristine areas of Madagascar. It’s also your best chance to see the famous aye-aye lemur (which kind of looks like a possum). The road weaves through dense jungle, across rivers, and through tiny towns in one of the most undeveloped parts of the country. Stretching 400 kilometers (250 miles), Route Nationale 5 (N5) is arguably the worst road (in terms of its condition) in the country. Many sections are often impassable so budget lots of time to drive it (they say it takes over 24 hours to drive the entire “road”).

7. Go whale watching

Between June and November more than 7,000 humpback whales migrate from Antarctica to Madagascar to breed, meaning the whale watching here is some of the best in the world. While we were taking the boat to Île Sainte Marie, we saw a couple breach the water and it was absolutely stunning to see. Plus, with so few tourists here, you aren’t stuck in a horde of boats vying for a photo. Adult humpback whales grow up to 16 meters (52 feet) and weigh over 30 metric tons (66,000 lbs.). You can also see the less-common Omura whale (dwarf fin whale) around Madagascar as well. Tours cost 135,000 MGA.

8. Enjoy Mantadia National Park

Located 160 kilometers (100 miles) east of the capital, Mantadia National Park is a protected area spanning 155 square kilometers (60 square miles). It’s home to 14 species of lemurs as well as over 115 types of birds and 84 kinds of amphibians — many of which are endangered. The landscape is a stunning mix of old-growth forest and rainforest, and you’ll see lemurs almost everywhere you go! Admission is 45,000 MGA and the required local guide is 60,000-80,000 MGA. There are also lodges in the park where you can stay overnight for 57,000 MGA per night.

9. Visit Lokobe National Park

Situated on the southeastern tip of Nosy Be, Lokobe National Park is one of the Sambirano region’s only remaining forests. Black lemurs, panther chameleons, and several endemic species of birds all make their home here. To get to Lokobe National Park, you’ll need to take one of the park’s pirogues (rowboat) from Nosy Be, which takes roughly 20-40 minutes. Admission is 55,000 MGA. Lokobe is one of the few national parks in Madagascar where a local guide is not needed.

10. Relax on Nosy Mangabe

Nestled deep between the coastal hills of Helodrano Antongila Bay as it carves its way inland on the north-eastern edge of Madagascar, this small island is famed for its booming populations of bug-eyed aye-aye lemurs. Huge fig trees wrangle around groves of palms, ruffed lemurs meet Mantella frogs in the undergrowth, and the green hills crash down into secluded bays of bright yellow sand. It’s a stunning landscape to say the least. Boats to the island and all the necessary permits are available in Maroantsetra. Admission is 45,000 MGA.

11. Visit Ambohimanga

The sacred royal hill of Ambohimanga, located 24 kilometers (15 miles) from the capital, was the one-time home of the country’s kings and the modern country’s first capital. Expanded throughout the 1700s, the walled complex contains a mound of palaces and burial grounds, crumbling fortifications, and regal tombs. King Andrianampoinimerina launched his now-famed campaigns to reunify the country from here, following more than seven decades of civil war in the 18th century. Admission is 10,000 MGA and you can also get a guide to show you around for free (just be sure to tip them).

12. Go to Antsirabe

Perched high up in the Central Highlands, Antsirabe is the third-largest city in Madagascar and the premier destination for the French who came here during the height of colonialism. They built elegant Parisian-style mansions, raised Gothic cathedrals, and laid wide boulevards with plane trees casting shade. The dusty city retains some of that charm and is one of the most aesthetically pleasing cities in the country. Antsirabe, a name that means “place of much salt” in Malagasy, is home to multiple natural thermal springs, making it a popular healing retreat. It’s also one of the best food spots in the country.