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Paris: The City of Love

August 25, 2008

Paris. Poets, artists, playwrights, writers, journalists, statesmen have all written about it. All came to Paris and walk away in love. It’s hard not to fall in love with Paris. It’s a magical place and I can see why so many flock here. Paris exudes culture, sophistication, and style. Like the millions before me, I too feel in the love with the city.

I remember the exact moment. It was about midnight and I had only been in Paris two hours. I was meeting friends for a night on the town. I hadn’t seen much of the city as I arrived late. Yet the second I got out of the metro and stared at the Arc De Triomphe and marveled at the Champs Elysees, I feel in love. Paris was it- the highlight of my time in Europe. However, the trip to Paris was truncated by a last minute trip to Bordeaux. With only two days in Paris, I’ve only had time to see the big sights and walk around. Two days does not do this city justice and I will be sure to be back.

One of the first things that struck me about Paris was how spacious it was. Paris is filled with wide streets, lots of little squares and plazas, and large parks. In European cities, especially ones as old as Paris, you rarely find such openness. It’s usually in the newly built areas where you find such space. Old buildings were usually built close together and any trip to London, Barcelona, Rome, or Prague will have you wondering how people moved about. Yet Paris is different. There is a lot of wide space here. I was surprised to see so much as all my previous trips had me dodging cars in tiny alleys. The spaces makes the city feel much less busy and far more relaxed. You can walk, you can move, you can dodge that car. It’s refreshing.

With my limited time here, I stuck to the major sites. I stared at the Arch De Triomphe and strolled down the Champs Elysees. The Champs Elysees is always busy and always expensive. With so many tourists and expensive shops, it’s not surprising. I spent my first night club hopping there. My Parisian friends showed my the local nightlife, which does not end until 8 a.m. - Parisians party hard. I strolled down to the Louvre and marveled at its size and wondered if Dan Brown would use it in his books again. I didn’t go in though, the Louvre deserves more time than I can give it this trip.

The highlights of my trip came on my second day. I spent six hours wandering the streets of Paris, falling in love with it more and more. The city is beautiful. All of it stunning. Nothing else needs to be said- I’ll let each photo tell you a thousand words. I really enjoyed the Latin Quarter. This historic area is filled with tiny, winding streets that turn at weird angles to open into little cafe lined squares. Despite being located so close to Notre Dame, there few tourists wandering around. The streets here are much quieter and it seemed like a nice area to eat and relax in. I was glad to get lost in it for quite some time.

Another great place in Paris was the Jardin Du Luxemborg. This huge garden behind the Palais Du Luxemborg is a local favorite to hang out in on a warm summer day. Tree lined paths zig zag the area, connecting parks to picnic or sleep on and tennis courts to be active on. There’s a large central fountain and a little place to race boats. The park is filled with people relaxing and eating. One thing that amazed me about the gardens was the large amount of chairs. In fact, most parks in Paris had chairs. Chairs that were not tied down. No one takes them. They are just there. I was surprised because it wouldn’t happen in the states or most other places I have been- people would take the chairs and slowly they would go away, too costly to replace.

But how could I forget the two biggest sights- The Eiffel Tower and Notre Dame.

The Eiffel Tower wasn’t that impressive the first time I saw it. It was raining, and the gray clouds seem to blend in with the tower. Yes, it was cool but it wasn’t breathtaking. Then I saw it a second time. On a clear blue day, the tower stuck out in the sky, reaching high above the surrounding buildings. Walking towards it I got more excited and the second time I saw it whole towering above the Seine, I was impressed. Really impressed. I was not impressed with the two hour wait to the top though and skipped that. But what a sight! The Eiffel Tower, or the “metal asparagus” as Parisians used to call it, is mesmerizing. It is the symbol of the city of love and that is evident by the large amount of couples caressing each other on the surrounding grass.

Notre Dame was cleaner than I thought. I expected a grim laden structure giving the Gothic architecture an even more dark and mystical feel. Sadly, it seems the building as been cleaned over the last few years. I think it takes away from the history and foreboding of the structure. C’est Le Vie right? The inside was pretty standard and the front reminded me of doumos in Italy. The real beauty of Notre Dame is its buttressed oval rear. This part is breathtaking and the Gothic art here is very intricate and well designed. The downside to Notre Dame is the sea of tourists who crowd this place. They swarm around like flies to honey and I quickly decided to leave. It was nice but not worth the annoyance. I marveled at it from afar- away from the crowds.

Paris was amazing. I loved it all and will come back as soon as I possibly can. It is everything I thought it would be and more. My next post will be about tips for traveling around the city and offer more practical advice. But this is my Paris love story. We call have one. What’s yours?

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 21 Comments

Observations Made While in England

August 14, 2008

Parliament and Big Ben A month with the English and I certainly learned a lot about their country. A month in any country will teach you something. Cultures only really open up to you when you spend a long time in one. There’s only so much to notice in a few days. It’s part of the reason I like to travel slow- you learn more about each place. A month in England taught me that:

The English will sit in their assigned seat. If a person is assigned a seat right next to you, they’ll sit there even if the rest of the carriage is empty.

Every night is a drinking night. It’s no surprise the British like to drink but what surprised me was the sheer quantity that they do it in. It does not matter what day of the week it is or if there’s work the next day, they’ll drink. I saw quite a few scenes on a Tuesday that only happens on a weekend. The English love to put them back any night of the week.

Two hours away is too far away. “Where you going from here?” I’d get ask. “Ohh that’s very far” was the usual response. In a country that can fit into Texas a few times over, the British sense of distance is slightly warped. For me it’s a short ride but it wasn’t for the Brits. I know distance is relative but what really shocked me was that most English don’t travel around their own country because “it’s too far.”

The British Rail system is overpriced. You can’t get cheap tickets unless you book far in advance. Otherwise, you’ll pay 50 pounds to go two hours on a train. Like the airlines, the closer to the date you want to go, the higher the price. It’s ridiculous for a public rail system to be so expensive. I think it’s also totally ridiculous that it cost me more to take a three hour bus than it did to fly to Amsterdam. Luckily, I found some cheap ways to get across the country and so could avoid this system. No wonder so few people enjoy taking the train.

Everyone loves to hate London. No one likes London, even Londoners. Londoners are cold, the city is overpriced, it’s hectic- the list of complaints goes on. Yet everyone is always ends up moving there for awhile. The English have a total love/hate relationship with London. Despite all the down sides, they stay there. As everyone (including Londoners) told me, “London is shit. Wait to you get out of the city. It’s much better there.”

No one talks in London. Speaking of London, get on the tube. It’s so quite. No one talks to each other. They just sit and try to avoid eye contact. No one says anything to each other. No apologies for being bumped. It’s eerie.

The English wear wet suits in the water. Cold water surrounds England so the English go in wearing wet suits so they aren’t too cold. Whether it’s a river, lake, or the ocean, 75% of the English had a wet suit on. When I saw this, I thought to myself- “wimps.” In New England, our water is just as cold but unlike the English, we can it. Well, maybe not me, but everyone else…

They treat parks as beaches. There’s nothing like a good day at the beach but if you’re English, your park is your beach. Everyone comes out in beach attire to capture the four minutes of sun that’s out for the day. They bring footballs, dog, and frisbees. They lounge like it’s the Greek Islands. Because remember, driving an hr to the beach is simply too far.

The TV shows are awful. I thought shows in American were bad but the British take it to new lows with Hollyoaks, East Enders, and especially a much less censored version of Big Brother.

England has a lot of Poles.The whole service industry of England is dominated by Polish immigrants. I wasn’t served by an English person unless it was in tiny towns of Cornwall. The Poles come to England for the wages and, since the English have no desire to wait tables, dominate the service and other low wage industries. I saw in many ways similarities between the immigration of the Poles and Hispanics into the United States. In fact the debate between a lot of my English friends about whether this is good or bad also mirrors the immigration debate we have in America. Some issues transcend borders.

England was certainly an interesting place and I would love to return. Overall, the countryside was my favorite. London’s good but overhyped. There’s a lot to do but the city really only reveals itself to those with deep pockets. The countryside is much more approachable- prices are reasonable, the people friendlier, and the area far more beautiful. I still can’t decide if I liked the Lake District or Cornwall more but both are leagues better than London. And where didn’t I like? One place comes to mind- The city of Birmingham.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 14 Comments

Oxford

August 12, 2008

Oxford Jesus College Oxford, founded sometime durijng he 9th century, grew during the middle ages as a center for learning- first theology, then medicine, and then law. Over the centuries, more departments have been added to the university and now you can study with the best and brightest of any field in the world.

Oxford Buildings The small city of Oxford is basically one giant school. Every few feet a new college springs up on you. The spires, ancient buildings, and courtyards makes Oxford a beautiful place to stroll through. I spent three days there hosted by someone from Couchsurfing. Like my previous couchsurfing experiences, th is one was a lot of fun and the host was really welcoming. He hosts a new person every week and loves the experience. In a “small world moment,” one of his friends is moving back to Thailand next week and she lives right down the street from me where I live.

Oxford was beautiful, though, it did rain every day I was there. I explored the outside during the small gaps in the storm but, since this is England, the rain quickly returned and I quickly turned inside. Not always back home- often I went exploring inside the colleges, shops, and museums.

While I don’t often take guided tours, I decided to do so here and it was worth the price- they tell you a lot about the university. The Oxford system is unique. The university comprises 38 colleges and each college is Oxford Gargoyle head separate. They do all their own hiring, firing, and admissions. The “university” is just an umbrella group run by the government and hands out the degrees. While you may go to New College or Exeter College, you still get an Oxford degree. There aren’t departments like in other universities around the world. Here, each college teaches all the subjects, though there is a seperate science and medicine department. In graduate school, curriculums are more specialized.

When you apply to Oxford, you apply to a college. Each college accepts its own applicants and, since they all teach the same thing, a lot of it is a crap shoot and based on reputation. Each week students meet with a tutor who helps with their studies. These tutorials are the foundation of the Oxford system and comprise the bulk of a student’s work.

Another interesting fact about the Oxford system is that there aren’t exams. In most universities, when the term finishes, you take a final. At Oxford, you may have little tests here and there, but there is no real semester final. Your degree rests on a final examination you have at the end of your time at Oxford. One test. Sick huh?

Oxford Alley I thought the whole Oxford system was overly complex but that is the consequence of people starting their own colleges year after year over hundreds of centuries and not wanting to integrate into one system.

Because of the weather I didn’t get a chance to go punting in the river. Punting is when you take a sort of gondola ride through the river- drinking, relaxing, and hoping you don’t fall in when it is your turn to push that pole (punt). Disappointing.

Oxford is one hour away from London and makes for a good overnight trip out of the city or, if you want to be a little rushes, a day trip. There’s a lot of history here and, if you are a Harry Potter fan, the college where Hogwarts is filmed. There’s history, education, and cool architecture in the city. Make sure you go punting for me!

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 5 Comments

Seeing the old and the new

August 6, 2008

Couch sleeping On my first round the world trip, most of my time was spent socializing in hostels and guesthouses, meeting five hour friends, drinking, and living everyday like Saturday. There was always something going on and a constant stream of bodies in and out of the hostels. It was pretty hard to get bored but sometimes it became sensory overload. This trip I am reaping the benefits of all those meetings by staying with friends instead of in hostels. I’ve been on the road for a month now and, except for one night in Salisbury, I haven’t stayed in a hostel.

By traveling two totally completely different ways, you get two totally different experiences. When you travel and stay in hostels, you meet people everyday. Everyday new people come in, old ones go out. I can’t even begin to count how many people I met while I was away. Moreover, many hostels have bars and organize activities. There is always a party going on, there is always some activity to do. It’s never boring in a hostel.

Yet when you stay with friends, there aren’t wild crazy nights all the time, a constant stream of drunken debauchery or a stream of people. It’s more like visiting a friend’s house for the weekend. You spend most of the time hanging out and doing a few things. It’s quieter and more relaxed. You get to “live like a local.” The biggest catch-22 in traveling is that everyone wants to live like a local but few ever do. No one really stays around long enough in one place to do so. When you stay with locals, you see the world through their eyes. I got taken to places I’d never would have found in a guidebook or through wandering on my own. It’s a great way experience to see a city from the inside out instead of the outside in.

It has been great bouncing around England this way. The setting and tone is different but I’m having just as much fun. It’s different seeing friends in their own environment, away from the hustle and bustle of the road where I last saw them. I can’t say anyone is really any different than I remember, though the working world has toned down their partying. When you stay at hostels, you rarely get to met locals so it’s nice to be able to “live” somewhere and get exposed to England as the English know it.

However, going from house to house has taught me that I don’t like doing it for such a long time. I love seeing my friends but the social butterfly in me yearns for more excitement, more people, and a few more parties. A month has been long enough for me. It’s now time to mix it up with a few hostels just to meet new faces. I’ll always be bouncing between friend’s couches so long as I have friends where I travel too. One of the greatest things about traveling is meeting people you can visit- people who will open up their home to you. However, in the future, I’ll break up these visits more so I can balance my twin desires- seeing old faces while meeting new ones.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 8 Comments

The Lake District

August 5, 2008

The Lake District is located in Cumbria on the northwest coast of England about an hour from the Scottish border. The Lake District is to Northern England what Cornwall is to the south and I can’t figure out which one I enjoyed more. They’re both so beautiful, I don’t think I could ever pick one. The Lakes are a result of the last Ice Age. Glaciers receded from here and cut the U shaped valleys that are now filled with water. The Lake District is one of the most visited national parks in England. We drove up on a Sunday and the highways were packed with people going down south after a nice relaxing weekend at the lakes. Judging from the traffic it is easy to believe that this place fills up with people and going there clearly shows you why.
The Lake District
My friends and I drove up from Lancaster and spent the driving from lake to lake and enjoying the tremendous scenery. Starting up north at Ullswater we made our way south to Windermere. The further south we went, the busier it got. I enjoyed the northern lakes more because of this. Ullswater is located in a rugged area and surrounded by mountains, hiking trails, and sheep farms. It was very reminiscent of New Zealand and looked a lot like Milford Sound but without all the ice. Ullswater may be the second largest lake in the district but it’s one of the quietest. Pooley Bridge village is located at the northern end of the lake and is famous for the little stone bridge that crosses a river that flows out of the lake. The bridge was nothing special but the river is shallow enough to walk across and, despite its cold temperature, had many kids playing in it. Driving south, we passed mountain after mountain and farm after farm. There’s a lot of sheep in this area and yet another reason why the place makes me think of New Zealand.

We drove through the Kirkstone Pass which provides stunning views of the whole area and a few of the lakes. Little streams trickle down hill and there are a number of swimming holes here. However, once you pass through, you reach the southern part of the district and the more heavily touristed area. Coming out of the pass, houses started to spring up all around, more cars were on the road, and people seemed everywhere. When we pulled into Windermere, we hit traffic and crowds and I longed for the serenity of the northern lakes. We didn’t even stop in Windermere because after driving around for twenty minutes, we realized we just couldn’t find parking. I wasn’t too bothered- I like avoiding crowds. Interesting fact about Windemere though: the home of Beatrix Potter, who wrote the Peter Rabbit books, is located here.

Not only is the Lake District amazing, but all of surrounding area is too. My friends lived in Lancaster, which was equally beautiful. It’s a populated version of the Lake District but still with all the charm. I woke up to this each morning:

Ancient stone walls sectioned off vast numbers of sheep, green hills rolled on forever in all directions, and tiny English stone cottages dotted the landscape. This whole area had an “English country” feel that I’ve yet to see elsewhere and coming here definitely took me back a few centuries. The whole area is so well preserved and so perfect, you often wonder if the locals got together and decided to rebuild everything like it was in the 1700s for the tourists. Luckily, that is not the case. People here have just maintained these ancient houses out of their own free will. The house I stayed in was over 500 years old.

Out of all the time I’ve spent here in England, my weekend in Lancaster and the Lake District felt the most English. The cottages, the sheep, the hills, and the Sunday venison roast caught by a man who wore this:
English Countryman
You can’t get more English than that!

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 14 Comments

Bath

July 31, 2008

Bath Built centuries ago by the Romans, Bath is one of the most beautiful, historic, and visited cities in England. The Romans came here when the invaded Britain because of the hot springs that bubbles up from the Earth. The local people thought this place had spiritual significance and, when the Romans came, they too felt the same and dedicated this site to the Minerva; the goddess of wisdom. Despite being on the edge of the frontier, the city grew to become of major religious and cultural center. People came from all around to pray to Minerva and use the baths, which they believed had special healing powers.

After the Roman empire crumbled, so too did the baths of Bath. Over the centuries, the Roman structures collapsed and the city was built over them. Medieval leaders constructed their own baths and pilgrims came to the hot springs in order to be healed of various alignments. But time and construction hide the original roman structure and all was forgotten. A new bath spa was constructed nearby and life in Bath went on.

However, in the early 19th century, the owners of the house on top of the original baths had hired a crew to find the source of water leaks when stumbled upon the ancient structure. Subsequent digging revealed the whole complex and soon excavations were underway to unearth this historic treasure. Today, most of structure has been unearthed, though archaeologists suspect there are a few more buildings in the area.

The ancient Roman Baths are inspiring. Since the city is built on top of them, you enter from street level, where a terrace, built to look like it would in ancient times, sits at street level. There you look down into the baths, which are over 6 feet below the ground. The preservation techniques are excellent and the site is one of the best preserved I’ve ever seen. There is an amazing level of detail throughout the site.

The audio tour, which is narrated by famed travel writer Bill Bryson, gives an amazing level of detail and information. The displays do a wonderful job of telling the history of bath, the roman occupation, the significance behind all the artifacts, and the excavation process. I always hate walking away from historic sites with questions but Bath’s displays and audio tour are so complete I had none. I’m always amazed by Roman engineering, especially their sewer and aqueduct system. It’s amazing a people primitive in so many ways, could build piping, heating, and sewer systems that were so complex. The history geek in me finds it all fascinating.

The city’s only allure isn’t just the Roman Baths but also the historic abbey, where famed philosopher Thomas Malthus is interned, and the rest of this wonderful town. The town is beautiful and most of the buildings are as they appeared a few centuries ago. I don’t know what architectural style they are built in but if I had to guess, I’d say “pretty.” One of the real highlights for me was the river in town. There parks line the Avon river and people lounge out with picnics as the famous Pulteney Bridge overlooks this little cascade in the Avon river. The bridge is covered with shops and reminded me of many of the covered bridges in Florence.

Salisbury is still the most beautiful city I’ve seen in England but Bath is a close runner up. All over England everyone kept telling me “Ohh, You’ll like Bath. It’s really nice.” They were right and how anyone could not like Bath would be beyond me. The only thing I didn’t like was my camera battery dying half way through my trip, leaving me far short of all the pictures I would have taken.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 12 Comments

Cornwall

July 29, 2008

After I left Salisbury, I headed west to Cornwall, the furthest west you can go in England. The county is filled with farms, small towns (I stayed in Lostwithiel- population 3,000), and tiny fishing villages. Cornwall is usually referred to as the backwater of England and its residents as rubes. Its image in England is like that of Kentucky or Tennessee in America and just like there, is anything but true.

This simple lifestyle is what gives Cornwall its charms and is one of the reasons why it has been the best place I’ve seen in England. i could have easily spent the whole summer here. Life in the east around London is busy- people rarely acknowledge each other, it’s all business, and everyone is rushing somewhere. You keep your head down and go on your own way. In Cornwall, everyone was friendly, life was slower, the kids could stay out at night, and there’s a plethora of outdoor activities. Though this difference could be said about any rural/city comparison in the world, the analogy certainly applies here and is why so many couples and families move here from the Big Smoke.

I was out here visiting my friends Mat and Kat. I had met them while traveling Vietnam. They were cycling around Southeast Asia and I was taking the easier train/bus route. We met up occasionally and even biked the Mekong Delta, though that turned out to be a disaster. When I told them I was coming to England, they were happy to have me and were amazing hosts who tirelessly showed me all Cornwall had to offer.

Cornwall it turns out, is very much like New England. My first night there we went to this riverside restaurant for dinner. I had the fish and chips (the best I’ve had so far) and a few of their friends came down and we spent the night chatting away. The restaurant was located on this river dotted by little sailboats. Looking out over the river, I felt like I was in the Hudson Valley in New York, with only the accents of the locals giving the location away.
Cornwall

That feeling kept with me throughout my time in Cornwall. The following day we woke up early (9 am) and headed to the Camel Trail. The Camel Trail is a 12 mile bike trail form Bodmin to a small coastal town of Padstow. The trail takes you along the Camel River though woods, estuaries, and eventually up the coast. It was a beautiful easy ride, though by the end of the return trip I was a little tired since I’m pretty out of shape. Biking along, we stopped at the Camel Valley Vineyards, one of the few wineries in England to actual make something drinkable. Though I didn’t like their reds, their white wine was tasty. From the hill they are on, you can see the surrounding farmland. Farms dot the rolling hills and cows and sheep could be seen for miles. The hilly area reminded me of Vermont with it’s farms, wineries, and dairy producers.

After awhile, we landed in Padstow and I found had returned home. All around me people were sitting in the marina snacking on friend seafood and french fries as the seagulls circled overhead waiting for their meal. Tourists flooded in and out of the restaurants and kids snacked on ice cream and fudge. Candy stores selling rock candy and taffy lined the streets and adults sat outside with a beer. In the water, people sailed, wakeboarded, or swam while some boats headed out to sea. Yes, I had returned home to Rockport, or Gloucester, or the fishing villages of Maine, where all the locals go in the summer time to escape the city. I can remember many trips as a kid to places like this.

We spent lunch time there and after digesting our meal headed back home but not before stopping off at the winery to pick up a few bottles of their white. That night a a BBQ erupted among the locals in the town center. Families kept showing up and before you knew it, it seemed like half the town’s children were playing the stream while the parents kept a watchful eye. It was a real friendly small town atmosphere and is part of the reason why my friends feel in love with the place. Again, it was like being in New England. All around New England small towns have a similar close and cozy feel. Everybody knows your name.

Maybe I enjoyed my time there because it reminded me of New England. Then again, I’ve always had a soft sport of the outdoors and, though I’m a city guy, I could easily spend a few months enjoying the country, with all those bike trails, rivers, woods, fishing villages, and impromptu barbecues. Yes, Cornwall is a beautiful place and, if you ever want to get a New England feel in Old England, I suggest a trip out there.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 9 Comments

Salisbury

July 22, 2008

A stunning, hour and a half train ride through the English countryside take you to Salisbury, home of the famous Stonehenge. It’s an easy day trip but I found that Salisbury has a lot more to offer and, in fact, Stonehenge is the least impressive part of the town.

Salisbury has been an important site throughout human history. Over 5,000 years ago, Neolithic man was dragging huge stones, weighing up to 55 tons from Wales to Salisbury to build Stonehenge. The area is surrounded by ancient buried mounds and historical artifacts.

While Stonehenge is impressive and still one of the most important historical sites in human history, Salisbury itself is more impressive. Beautifully preserved, this picturesque English country town offers a lot to do and will leave a far more lasting impression on me than Stonehenge.

Originally, “Old Sarum” (as the old town was called) was constructed and used by the Romans and early Saxons as a fortification. With the signing of the Magna Carta in 1215, the fort and cathedral were moved to the present day location. The new city never had any defensive walls as it is surrounded by rivers on three sides and located on a hill.

The city has been immaculately preserved. During the German Blitz, Salisbury wasn’t bombed as the Germans used the church as a marker and were under strict orders not to damage it. Around the city one can see Elizabethan, Jacobin, and Victorian style homes all squished together down tiny streets. The town market square is very well preserved and outdoor cafes line the area. (Of course, there is also a church there too.) Modernity has crept in but not at the cost of this scenery. There is a McDonalds and a Burger King but you wouldn’t notice them unless you feel upon them. They don’t stick out like eyesores and are blend quite nicely with the surroundings. Thank God for strict zoning laws huh?

The highlight of this whole trip for me was Salisbury Cathedral. The cathedral was built in 1238 and it still stands, albeit with some adjustments, 750 years later. This huge gothic cathedral is surrounded by grass and cloistered in a little community with a few smaller churches, homes, and other buildings. For all the churches I’ve seen in Europe, this ranks number one.

Inside (no photos allowed), this church is laid out in the traditional cross format with an entrance at one end and the prayer area at the other. Huge ceilings and large stained glass windows adorn the sides and the choir and seating area line the middle. What made this church really special were the tombs inside. The walls are lined with the tombs of dead bishops, kings, and queens. They are beautifully ordained in figures and symbols from the person’s life. In the Trinity, there is a tomb that dates back to 1099. Walking past the tombs of so many historical figures, including some that signed the Magna Carta was breathtaking, especially to a history geek such as myself. The church also houses one of the 4 original copies of the Magna Carta left in existence. Seeing it and the church are both free.

Salisbury can make a great day trip from London but to truly appreciate all the area has to offer it is better to spend a night or two. Walk around this historical town, visit Stonehenge and, it’s little cousin Avesbury, the cathedral, and journey into the country. There is a lot to do here and a great respite from the chaos of London.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 11 Comments

Free Things to Do in London

July 18, 2008

Being in one of the most expensive cities in the world on one of the tightest budgets in the world, I’ve been learning how to navigate London while spending as little money as possible. If you ever find yourself here on a tight budget, here are some free things to do in London:

Get a Free Map. The tourist office charges £1 for a map but if you grab the pamphlets from the walking or bus tours they contain maps. Also, the Museum of London gives away a map for free if you ask. The Lonely Planet maps can sometimes be hard to read and these map give you a good idea as to where the location of all the sites and underground stops are without having squint at a book.

Visit Museums. Most of the museums in London are free- the Museum of London, the British History Museum, the Natural History Museum, and the Science Museum are all free. Get your fill of British history without spending a pence!

Vist an Art Gallery. The National Gallery and the Tate Modern are free.

Buy an Oyster Card. This may not be free but for 28 pounds, you get a unlimited usage of the bus and trains. I’m not sure why they call it an Oyster card. It’s not shaped like one.

People Watch. Sunday is market day in London. There’s the Camden Market, the Portobello Market, the Flower Market, and a million more markets. People watch, get great photos, and enjoy local London life without spending a dime.

Watch Iconic Symbols. The changing of the guard at Buckingham Palace at 11:30am as well as the horse guards at Whitehall at 11:00am are both free and interesting to watch.

Free Internet. Looking for your online fix? The City libraries offer free internet. There are five library locations around the city. You get a free half hour but if it’s not busy you can stay on until you are finished. In fact, I’m writing this post from one right now

Walk Around. London is a huge city and there is beautiful historic buildings all around. In fact, London beat me. I found this city to be totally unwalkable. I walked for four hours and barely made a dent on the route I was going to take (hence the need to get the Oyster Card.) But there is so much to see and once you walk and get out of the tourist area around the Thames, you’ll get to see London the way the locals do.

Lounge in the Parks. Spending a day in the park is free wherever you go. London has some great parks and when the sun comes out (which hasn’t been too often), Londoners flock outside. Join them for some fun in the sun.

See Westminster Abbey. You can get into Westminster for free. You have to cheat slightly though. Westminster will not charge you entrance if you’re there for worship. (Maybe worshiping its beauty?) If you want to get in and not pay, say you are worshiping. I didn’t do it but I’m just putting it out there that you can do it.

London maybe expensive but it is very possible to fill your days with free activities. If you do want to go in to see the sights you will have to pay- sometimes as much as £25!!!

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 13 Comments

Ye Olde London

July 16, 2008

My flight to london was uneventful. Well, it could have been eventful but I was sound asleep until we landed in Dublin. When I connected from the Irish Republic, I was surprised there I didn’t pass through passport control in Heathrow. I looked but it was right on to baggage claim for me. Now, I’ve managed to get into England without a UK stamp on my passport. Weird.

My first day in England was also uneventful. By the time I got up from my nap, it was mid day and I just used to to relax and have an afternoon beer at the pub. (Doesn’t that sound typically English?) My friends live about 45 minutes away from Heathrow in North London. Or at least it should be 45 minutes. Half way back to their flat the tube (train) brokedown. We got stuck in the train for over an hour, turning the ride from the plane to the flat into a 2 1/2 hr ordeal.

The train ride would have been bearable even with jetlag had not another passenger decided she wanted to sing the whole time. This old woman, an obvious American Idol reject, began singing, or murdering, what sounded like Chinese folk songs as loud as she could. At first it wasn’t bad but she got progressively louder and louder.

Big Ben It’s funny how you can learn a lot about a culture in instances like this. The English are famously reserved. My friends couldn’t stand the woman but when I told them they should say something (I didn’t want to be the loud American tourist) they replied “Ohh no, I’m far too polite for that. I don’t want to cause a scene.” The other passengers felt similar despite also being annoyed by it. The English are well known for their reserve and politeness and rather be perceived as impolite, they’d tolerate an annoyance such as this lest they loo too improper. In America, the whole train would have thrown that woman out by now.

Unable I couldn’t take it anymore, I said something. Then I said it again. Everyone else seemed to mumble in approval. She just looked at me and gave me the thumbs up. A guy across from her laughed and began to sing along. Soon they were both singing and the train was mumbling in discontent more. Yet there was no revolution. English manners still prevailed. But I had had enough and my friends and, lest I look too improper, got my friends and switched carriages. It took two carriages before the woman’s singing faded away but silence finally filled the stale train air.

Today, I’ve been exploring London. (Well, right now, I’m resting in an Internet cafe.) With London being so massive, I divided the city into little sections. Today, I explored the Thames river and the plethora of sights around it. I saw Trafalgar square and walked down Whitehall Street where all the governmental offices are until I came upon Big Ben. There I was in front of the icon of London and, gazing upon this giant clock, was disappointed. I had expected him to be…bigger. The Parliament tower went higher than Ben. I had always pictured Ben to be very tall (not that he’s short) but it was a little disappointing to see his stature tiny than I imagined. I guess all those angled shots from movies have ruined me much like the close of Mt. Rushmore hid the fact it too is tiny. Not to say it wasn’t beautiful- it was. Big Ben was still Tower Bridge amazing and as I ate lunch in the shadow of him and Parliament, I couldn’t help but be in awe of their Gothic architecture. I’m glad Guy Fawkes didn’t blow them up- he would have robbed humanity of such wonderful things.

One thing that did saddened me about London is all the congestion and construction around their tourist sights. I found that some of the best tourist cities in the world shield their historical sites from modern development. Philadelphia’s historic area is blocked, parts of Rome are a no drive zones as is Athen’s Parthenon. It allows you to enjoy the cities without having to dodge big double decker buses. If I had one complaint about London’s historic sites, it would be that. Attractions lose some of their historic wonder and magnificence when surrounded by construction crews, buses, and trains. It’s hard to throw yourself in the age when construction crews are blasting sidewalk behind green fences. I know it is hard when cities are so big and congested but if other places can do it, I have faith London could too.

Now, my Internet hour is up and it’s off to explore the famous Tower Bridge and Tower of London before meeting my friend for dinner. It’s been a long day already but, with so much of London to see, I’ve barely scratched the surface.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Europe | 16 Comments

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