Posted: 02/17/16 | February 17th, 2016
Every month, Kristin Addis from Be My Travel Muse writes a guest column featuring tips and advice on solo female travel. It’s an important topic I can’t adequately cover, so I brought in an expert to share her advice for other solo female travelers! Here she is with another amazing article!
I sat with my new friends on Thanksgiving night in Tofo, Mozambique. Our food was slow to arrive, so we decided to pay homage to the nature of holiday and talk about what we were thankful for.
In that moment, I couldn’t believe that I was surrounded by so many amazing people who had arrived here from various corners of the earth, all in the same way I had: by word of mouth. There were two blonde Californian girls here thanks to the Peace Corps, a clever Aussie who had just finished some of his PhD studies in a town in the north, another American who had arrived on a whim and brought all the laughs with him, and a few others from North America and Switzerland.
We were as happy and relaxed as could be. Each person’s giving of thanks was more beautiful and profound than the last, some even bringing tears to my eyes.
Just a few weeks before, I had been petrified of traveling through Mozambique. There were a lot of question marks, and I could find few answers online. I knew just a bit about the country from what my friends from South Africa told me.
Mozambique is a former Portuguese colony rebounding from a civil war that ended in 1992. It’s coastal, bordering South Africa’s east coast. It’s absolutely gorgeous, with seafood fresh out of the ocean for a few dollars, and long stretches of beaches with endless sand bars and baby-blue water.
But I also knew that Mozambique isn’t an easy country to travel through.
The police officials are corrupt, the buses used by the locals (known as chapas) are generally just vans with bald tires that can accommodate 20 people but squeeze in 40, and scams are plentiful.
There’s a bit of tourist infrastructure in a few key places, but beyond that, it’s full of bad roads and mysteries.
Apart from warnings and scary statistics, there isn’t much information online about the country. While searching for accounts from solo female travelers, I stumbled on a forum on a scuba board from 2013 that advised a poster to think twice about going if she was good-looking.
A posting in the Lonely Planet Thorntree forum wasn’t much more encouraging; it linked to a blog post that stated that Mozambique was the toughest country the author had traveled through: she’d been robbed, it was too expensive, and she elected to cut her trip short.
I started to wonder if I’d find anything positive at all.
Then I remembered something: There are a lot of misconceptions about Africa. People tend to think it’s a horribly dangerous place and forget that there are also kind people, beautiful landscapes, good food, and unique adventures to be found.
Similarly, before I went to South Africa for the first time, a few friends from back home expressed deep concern that I would be traveling through a country they perceived as too dangerous to traverse on my own. They warned me against Ebola (which hadn’t even come close to infiltrating South Africa), rape, and violence.
In reality, I found that with the right precautions, traveling there was no problem and that fear is often more limiting than helpful.
Likewise, when it came to Mozambique, I knew that it was only irrational fear holding me back.
And then I realized that traveling to a country there is little information about is the same as traveling to any other place!
You figure out the visa requirements (which I took care of in Johannesburg prior to going).
You make sure you have the right immunizations (which I took care of at a travel doctor in Johannesburg, who gave me antimalarial pills for much cheaper than they would have been in the US or Europe).
You ask when already on the ground for the best transport method. From Johannesburg, that’s an Intercape or Greyhound bus.
You ask locals at your first stop about where to go. The guys I couchsurfed with in Johannesburg delivered in spades when they told me to head to a beach town called Tofo.
You stay friendly and inquisitive upon arrival, and hold your head high and keep your back straight when asking questions and negotiating with taxi drivers and dealing with border crossing guards.
Traveling in Mozambique turned out to be just like traveling to every other place I had visited. I figured it out as I went, I was friendly and observant, and I asked locals and expats who had lived there questions whenever I got the chance. I realized that there was no reason to be worried — that I had done this a thousand times before in countless countries and cities around the world.
There were a few times I encountered dangerous situations. The chapas were so overpacked and dangerous that I resorted to hitchhiking to get around instead. It was actually the safer option!
And there were times when things just didn’t make any sense, such as when I had to go to the airport to book a flight out, simply because the online systems weren’t working.
Once I got there, the employees had to work between three computers to actually book the ticket, since each was a bit broken but still worked for one aspect of the booking process. The ordeal took an hour and a half, but it was just the norm there.
So is ordering your food two hours before you want it, because it just takes that long. And a few friends of mine who drove a car had to pay a fine to the police because they had bags in the back seat and the “seats are for people, not bags.”
Such is Mozambique.
It’s frustrating and difficult in so many ways, yet it’s so breathtaking and full of smiles. I learned so much about the culture, humanity, and patience while I was there. I was let in in ways that just don’t happen in Europe or the US. People would invite me out to show me “the real Mozambique,” and I’d dance the night away and end up with a handful of new friends.
Nowhere has been so challenging and rewarding all at the same time.
The bonus was that I made all of these discoveries on white-sand beaches with aquamarine waters full of whale sharks and devil rays. The cherry on top was that I was paying less than the equivalent of $30 USD per day for the privilege.
The country wasn’t that scary, and it certainly wasn’t expensive like the message boards led me to believe (Mozambique is the only country I’ve visited that didn’t charge me double for being a single girl in a private bungalow!). I was glad I didn’t let my overactive imagination and irrational fear win.
I know that traveling to somewhere you’ve never been before, with limited available information, can be extremely nerve-wracking. Compound that with the fact that I was traveling in “scary, scary” Africa, and it becomes even more daunting.
However, I was shown yet again that letting fear get in the way of what could be a wonderful travel experience is a mistake.
I had a chance to meet an amazing crew, and most important of all, take on a challenge solo and dominate it. I had another chance to prove to myself that I’m capable, and that I still prefer solo travel, after all. I got to know a new country that few people visit intimately, and the good times far, far outweighed the bad, times ten. No, times a million. The same can happen for you.
It just takes a little courage, slaying the fear monster, and confidence in yourself.
Kristin Addis is a solo female travel expert who inspires women to travel the world in an authentic and adventurous way. A former investment banker who sold all of her belongings and left California in 2012, Kristin has solo traveled the world for over four years, covering every continent (except for Antarctica, but it’s on her list). There’s almost nothing she won’t try and almost nowhere she won’t explore. You can find more of her musings at Be My Travel Muse or on Instagram and Facebook.
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Veronika
That’s so inspirational, Kristin! I find it extremely difficult to go fully against my closest ones who are not travellers and freak out even about countries like India, Iran.. where I went in the end and was perfectly fine. But Mozambique – that’s another level!
I really admire how you pull it off solo just about anywhere in the world 🙂
Rach & Marty
Veronika, don’t be afraid to travel places that might not sound “safe”. We have just spent 3 weeks in Iran (we are 2 females) and had an amazing time! (wrote a blog on it too) I would say it was one of the safest countries we have been to (and we have seen over 100 countries now) and the people were super friendly and hospitable.
The same goes for Colombia! What a beautiful country with very generous people. We were more worried walking the streets in Miami than other places that suppose to be “unsafe”. So go on… travel! People are much nicer than we mgiht think:)
Dominic
Great post. As someone who often Google Maps every location I visit, it’s warming to know there are others out there who share the same sentiment!
Anniston
Thanks so much for that insightful story Kristin. Your adventure will benefit many people who rely on other peoples reviews to make decisions. Before I left for my trip to Rwanda, all I heard was the genocide and was scared. But a friend joined me and we had a wonderful experience ever. We later joined traveller we met in Parc de Volcans and continued to Uganda. What makes Africa interesting is it’s friendly people who are always ready to help.
Now I am in Africa every year and have made many friends.
Simone
Great you just jumped into the deep and went anyway! If I see those pictures I think you would’ve been crazy if you hadn’t! People are often so negative about things they don’t know or looking for the negatives in some ways. I am so happy for you that you found true happiness and an unforgettable travel experience in Mozambique!
Pat
Awesome post! I’m glad you cleared up some of the common misconceptions associated with African countries. If you live your life in fear, you may as well stay home. Thanks Kristin and Matt! As always, great insights!
Stephen Gollan
Fantastic post Kristin!, I could not have put it better myself. Many people find travelling to a destination a daunting experience, and more so for a solo female traveller. Your experience can inspire others to get over that hump and just get out there and travel. I hope many people read this post and see the value behind it. Keep up the great work Kristin!
Sharon
The difficulties with transport have put me off Mozambique in the past. It’s on my bucket list – but I think it’s sensible to do it with some travelling experience under my belt.
Liz Peterson
This is a really great, honest post and I’m so glad that you shared. Misconceptions are normally just that, and we can’t let fear keep us from discovering the world. Thanks for sharing!
victor costa
Moçambique… When the first portuguese arrive there, in 1498, call the land and the people: “Terra da Boa Gente” = “Land of the GOOD people”
Yes, the roads are BAD and the people drive like crazy :-), the police are there only for the money (remember Frank Zappa ?) but you’ll find 2000 miles of white sandy beaches with warm waters, great seafood and BEAUTIFUL people, always present to make your day a perfect day. Slowly… but who wants to live in the fast lane when in Mozambique ?!
Go and enjoy
Emma
It is so true what you say about fear being more limiting that helpful and its great that you are putting such a positive message out there. I hope the next girl who is out there struggling to find info on Mozambique finds this post!
Eve
Wonderful post, I am off to Saint Martin next week and this has been a great read before I go off to the unknown! Thank you! Xx
Jurga
I have to agree with you about the fear stopping people from new adventures. There is always an excuse not to do something: it’s too dangerous, too far, too expensive,… We travel a lot with our three young kids, also to Africa, and every single time people warn us about all the things that can happen. True. A lot can happen on a trip and it’s not always easy, but a lot can happen in your home country too… If you always choose the easiest way you are missing out on so many opportunities in life.
Good luck with your travels!
Sylvie
This is such a great post! I love the tips included in the post, and this definitely encouraged me and made me feel better about travelling solo, especially in countries that might be perceived as ‘dangerous’. It’s amazing how you were able to have such a great experience though others warned and discouraged against travelling to Mozambique.
Warey
Great article, you need to explore and part of exploration is the surprise of the unknown. You need to stay safe but you also need to challenge yourself.
As we all know, there is always the next stage of travel, if you’ve never been to South East Asia Thailand is exotic, if you’ve done that you’ll next look at India/China as the next level, then more adventure travel would be Mongolia, Iran, N.Korea.
We will always challenge ourselves.
Maria
I was planning to go to South Africa to check out wildlife… now you got me doubthful, I thought South Africa was a kick ass place to explore. Yeah… female solo travel outside of Europe and America is a bit dangerous but good you took it up… I agree sometimes you got to just to do… through planning, action and proactiveness… you know I started reading blogs a year back maybe and learnt about couch surfing which was such a unheard of concept you can live with strangers free and all…its safe because they are a travel people and there is point and feedback system… well now my mindset has changed I am all for couch surfing… and camping and things like that.
Jess
Well said! This is especially true for females traveling solo or together.
The media definitely has a part to play as we tend to steer clear of countries that have had conflict in the past, but as you discovered with Mozambique, it’s sometimes worth ignoring other views to find out for yourself.
Yannis
Sometimes we guys don’t really realise how bad it can be for you, girls, and it’s another hassle you don’t wanna add to your travel planning!
I’m glad you find your way round this though and inspire others to do so.
I’d like to visit Mozambique, too, so I’ll start researching after this!
🙂
Jen
Hi Matt & Kristin, this is a great article. I won’t be traveling solo anymore, but I enjoyed reading about not giving in to fear.
Mark & Miranda
Ah, what a brilliant article.
On our travels through Africa we encountered the exact same things: friends and family worried about our safety, Ebola (it was half a continent away), and every other potential issue. What we found on the ground was the exact opposite. Friendly locals willing to help at every turn, Ebola nowhere near us and no other issues (apart from a snake bite). It’s the same right now in Nepal.
Don’t let fear run your life is our motto.
Nina
Great article. I’ll be traveling on my own through Central America this summer, and while it’s reputation has gotten slightly better, am still a bit nervous because it will be my first trip completely on my own. I’m super excited the the adventure, though! As solo travelers, especially solo female travelers, we have the opportunity to face and conquer fears.
Amber
This is an inspiring post and a confidence booster for us. We are thinking of traveling to Bangladesh but there’s not much info online about the attractions and things to do. There’s more negative news than positive one -_- Hopefully that’ll not deter us and we’ll get to go this year! Anyway, our rule of thumb when traveling is always to exercise caution, even in the world’s safe country.
Andrew
These are the very important considerations NomadicMatt . But i think first we should plan everything for the place we are about to travel. It might be a great fun if you don’t know about the place but it can also be dangerous.
Suzan Hall
I get nervous whenever I travel alone. It’s not all about my safety as I trust most people and I am always careful. I ‘m planning to travel USA and will be staying there for a week and this will be my First trip to NYC, but I am glad that I read you blog,this is quite helpful. Thank you so….. much.
Ishaan Goswami
I appreciate people who love to break the walls to set themselves free. The solo itch is the best method to measure the limits of self-consciousness and one understands the meaning of love. Like i always say, there is nothing negative in terms of travel. it is ; the way how we look at it. Solo is a way to believe in humanity and to try to shoot for the stars. There are merely no limits in Universe. I find it easy and a good experience to hike/ trek solo. Even if i am stuck on a rock or a glacier it is always a learning to get out of tough times rather facing critics of society. The critics are temporary but the learnings are permanent for sure. This is the only way to live, to explore , to feel the extinct. It’s funny how everything is inter connected. There is a quote “Either we win or we learn”; instead a learning is more than a win. Never let your hopes die. A Hope triggers the adrenaline and so the rush helps us to stay alive and feel the measure of limits that does not exists in reality. Keep going. #High_hopes #Believe #Humanity #Explore #Verve
manoj
This is such a good post. This is great for those who seek for adventure. This also encouraged me about solo travelling. Especially in countries that might have awesome tourist spots.
Traveling to somewhere you’ve never been before is always cheerful & exciting.we can’t let fear keep us from discovering the world but you need stay safe.