Posted: 03/21/19 | March 21st, 2019
It’s been exactly one month since I moved to Paris.
During that time, it’s been nonstop wine, cheese, brasseries, influencer meetups, fashionable social events, writer salons, museums, picnics, and late-night jazz concerts.
It’s been a whirlwind of adventure and romance.
Just I imagined it would be.
Actually…
It hasn’t been that way at all.
I just made that up.
Life here has been the exact opposite of that (though that kind of fabulous lifestyle does sound like fun).
I arrived after a much-delayed flight, plopping my jetlagged self into bed and not waking up until the following day. From there, I met my one Parisian friend and her friends for some wine and cheese. That little outing to a park turned into a late-night wine fueled bar crawl that ended at some ’50s-style American sock hop. (Seriously. I couldn’t believe it. Here I am, in a bar in Paris, and people are dressed up and dancing like it’s 1953. It was kind of incredible.)
But, after that wild night, life slowed to a crawl.
I spent my first week here settling in: I got a SIM card, saw a plethora of apartments (and finally picked one), signed up for French classes, and tried to catch up on work. (I thought about joining a gym but, in paperwork-loving France, you need a doctor’s note saying you’re fit enough to join. I’m told most people don’t follow that rule but, for now, I can’t be bothered.)
After that first week, I moved into my new apartment, went to some meetups in hopes of making friends, and flew to Berlin for ITB, the largest travel conference in the world.
Upon returning to Paris, I came down with a terrible cold and spent the last week inside my apartment trying to recover. Just when I had hoped to hit the ground running, life had other ideas.
Now, as I hit my first full month here, I’m finally feeling better (and thanks to spending so long inside, I’m fairly caught up on work).
The timing couldn’t be more perfect. The weather is getting warmer and sunnier again. Over the next few weeks, I start hosting a plethora of visitors, which will finally get me out of my apartment and exploring the city more. (I’ve lined up a lot of activities, which are basically the museums, tours, and shows I’ve yet to see, so my friends are going to get a very off-the-beaten-path look at Paris.)
Life here is very different than what I imagined it to be.
In my head, I imagined hitting the ground running. I imagined perfectly scheduled days balanced with work and play, including regular French classes, meetups, sightseeing, food tours, and nights out. I imagined myself like Owen Wilson’s character from Midnight in Paris where I just wander around town and stumble into this action-packed life.
But, instead, my time here has been similar to when I moved Bangkok where I spent much of my early weeks there alone playing video games, discouraged that life just didn’t “happen” to me.
It took a long time to find my groove in that city.
But living in Bangkok taught me two things:
First, life just doesn’t happen. Sitting at my kitchen table doing work isn’t going to show me life in Paris. Neither is going to the same co-working space.
This first month has gone by in the blink of an eye, and, with only three more left to go, I know I have to make the most of every single day.
I need to go out and make things happen. I need to be more proactive in doing things.
But, when I think of some of my motivations for coming here — to escape the fast pace of New York City, to write more, to relax, to sleep, to be healthier — I realize that, by those metrics, my first month has been a success.
I’ve done all those things.
Yeah, it would be nice to live this life I imagine in my head. But what I really want is exactly what I’ve been doing.
Now I feel settled in and ready to take on the city.
So, though, I’m 25% of the way through my time in Paris, I still have plenty of time left to accomplish the other things I want to do.
I didn’t come here in hopes of establishing a new life.
I came here for a fresh start and to try out what it’s like to take a really extended holiday to one of my favorites cities in the world. To no longer be just passing through but rather to peel back some of the layers of the onion that is Paris.
No move to a new place is ever going to be easy.
Because the second thing living Bangkok taught me? If I can make it there, I can make it anywhere.
Bangkok showed me that I could be self-reliant and independent. It showed me that I could adapt to anything.
I’ve done this before.
And I can do it again.
I’ve been getting a lot of questions about my time here, so here are some answers to for anyone wondering:
1. How did I find an apartment so quickly?
I got lucky. Someone on Twitter connected me with someone who rented out apartments. And having a decent budget allowed me to find a place quicker. I was going through some agencies and looking at Facebook groups and Le Bon Coin (French Craigslist), but that personal connection made it a lot easier.
Finding an apartment here in Paris is hard even for the French. It’s a long process filled with a lot of paperwork. The way New Yorkers talk about the price of an apartment is the way people here talk about finding an apartment. It’s the first topic of discussion, as a way to bond with strangers.
2. Are you studying French? If so, where?
I was taking French classes at Alliance Française but, disliking the classroom teaching style, dropped out and hired a private tutor. I’m also learning via podcasts and Duolingo.
3. How are you meeting people and making friends as an expat?
There’s a bunch of expat meetup groups I’ve joined, and I started hosting my own meetups. I am also reaching out to influencers based in France. But if you know of any cool Parisian locals, let me know!
4. I heard you’re running walking tours. Is that true?
Yep! I started running my own historical walking tours. You can sign up here. I have put up the schedule through the end of May. I do them once a week and they’re free. Come join! If a date is full, join the waitlist. A few people always end up canceling!
Get Your In-Depth Budget Guide to Paris!
For more in-depth information, check out my guidebook to Paris written for budget travelers like yourself! It cuts out the fluff found in other guides and gets straight to the practical information you need to travel and save money in one of the most beautiful and romantic cities in the world. You’ll find suggested itineraries, budgets, ways to save money, on- and off-the-beaten-path things to see and do, non-touristy restaurants, markets, and bars, and much more! Click here to learn more and get started!
Book Your Trip to Paris: Logistical Tips and Tricks
Book Your Flight
Use Skyscanner or Momondo to find a cheap flight. They are my two favorite search engines because they search websites and airlines around the globe so you always know no stone is left unturned. Start with Skyscanner first though because they have the biggest reach!
Book Your Accommodation
You can book your hostel with Hostelworld as they have the biggest inventory and best deals. If you want to stay somewhere other than a hostel, use Booking.com as they consistently return the cheapest rates for guesthouses and cheap hotels. My favorite places to stay are:
If you’re looking for more places to stay, here for my favorite hostels in Paris. And if you’re wondering what part of town to stay in, here’s my neighborhood breakdown of the city!
Don’t Forget Travel Insurance
Travel insurance will protect you against illness, injury, theft, and cancellations. It’s comprehensive protection in case anything goes wrong. I never go on a trip without it as I’ve had to use it many times in the past. My favorite companies that offer the best service and value are:
- World Nomads (for everyone below 70)
- Insure My Trip (for those over 70)
- Medjet (for additional repatriation coverage)
Looking for the Best Companies to Save Money With?
Check out my resource page for the best companies to use when you travel. I list all the ones I use to save money when I’m on the road. They will save you money when you travel too.
Need a guide?
Paris has some really interesting tours. My favorite company is Take Walks. They have expert guides and can get you behind the scenes at the city’s best attractions. They’re my go-to walking tour company!
If you want a bike tour, use Fat Tire Tours. They have the best and most affordable bike tours in the city.
Want More Information on Paris?
Be sure to visit our robust destination guide on Paris for even more planning tips!
Photo credit: 1 – Douglas O’Brien
Veronika Primm
Ah ok, I somehow missed that part where you said Paris was just going to be for 4 months! That makes a lot more sense 🙂
Well enjoy your time there, hope you’ll get to experience a beautiful spring and the onset of summer.
See you at some other conference, it was fun quickly catching up at ITB!
Sandra Pereira
I thought he was moving there permanently as well…missed that part too!
NomadicMatt
Maybe? I mean I have to go back for my next book launch but who says I won’t be back? As I said in my original post on moving, I’m here to check it out. If I like it, I’ll come back after my next book tour. If I don’t, well, at least I tried! Can’t buy the cow until you try the milk!
De
I also thought it was for at least one year–we all asked how you were going to be able to do that because of the Schengen policy. Personally, and at my age, 4 months in such a busy city is 3 1/2 months too long. Love the French countryside where it’s a slower pace and the cheese and wine can be savored for hours. Make sure you hop on a train and experience the French people and culture where life is more relaxed. Enjoy!
NomadicMatt
The French have 6 month and 1 year tourist visas to the country so I’ve come in on that. But Americans also get an extra 90 days in the country based on an agreement dating back to WW2.
Jeannie
What was the process for the six month visa? We did the one year once and it was a pain.
NomadicMatt
They created a new visa system last July. You go to your nearest consulate, sit in line for a long time, fill out a bunch of paperwork, and do an interview. So long as you have proof of income and don’t have any reason to work, it’s usually granted for Americans. It’s just a time consuming process.
Mark Montagne
Hi Matt, Bangkok Has still been great with me, 4 and a half years now with once a year trips back to America, now I just rescued my 80 Y.O. father from a horrible assisted living facility in Minnesota who is suffering from Parkinson’s, got him on a plane and took him back to Thailand with me, my Beautiful young Thai wife of 3 and a half years and our blended family are going to take care of my father here in Thailand to live out the rest of his life, not easy but he`s my dad 🙂 Good Luck In Paris, haven’t been back to France since 2003.
Greg Brenner
Wow! Cool! Well done, Mark!
Greg
Mark Montagne
Thanks Greg, sorry for the late reply, have a great day! Mark.
Carissa
I know most countries have working visas for young people 18-30/35. Is it more difficult to live abroad after you pass this working visa age range?
Michael Winnick
Maybe I missed something. It looks like you’re staying in France for 4 months. I assume then you’re leaving? How are you able to stay there for more than 90 days??
Sally Rose
I’m curious about this, too.
Patty
Hi Matt,
I’ll be visiting Paris the second week of June and I’d love to participate in your walking tour! When might your schedule for signups in June be posted?
Look forward to meeting you!
Patty
Bonnie Friedman
Some suggestions: Pierre Herme instead of (in addition to?) Laduree, Musee Zadkine, TheatreinParis.com, Bateau Mouche (at night).
Paris is magical. 4 months will not be enough…
Griffin Ashley
Hey Matt, I was just curious what kind of visa you’re on since the Schengen area visa is only 90 days, I’m guessing it’s a French specific visa?
I’ll be out in Europe from April to July with Paris as a probable stop so I’ll try to book a slot for your tour!
NomadicMatt
The French have 6 month and 1 year tourist visas to the country so I’ve come in on that. But Americans also get an extra 90 days in the country based on an agreement dating back to WW2.
Bonnie J. Weissman
LOVED reading your experiences and tips. I was a GI 35-40 years ago, and learned many of them from fellow travelers, a well known guidebook, and by word of mouth from Army compadres. The dining out at lunch is something I follow everywhere to this day during my European travels. I have even eaten at famous places for half or less than what dinner normally costs, and the house wines (also cheaper) are usually quite good.
Also love going to the open air food markets to make an easy dinner with a good bottle of wine; have cork screw, will travel! Back in 2008 I had two days in Paris on the way home from a painting trip, and went on a day tour around Paris with an expat Canadian, which was great, and we visited an open air market in a residential section of south Paris. The foods (cheese, meats, fruits, veggies, and wines) were delicious and fresh. It was super for dinner. I don’t know why more folks don’t do this. It’s tasty, easy, and way more healthy than prepackaged stuff. Plus if you’re solo, it’s easier to chat with other folks who are picnicking in the park as well.
Also at the market, I found some inexpensive gifts (an incredible Moroccan vendor selling huge embroidered scarves for E20 and earrings) to take home. I have had innumerable people ask where I got my scarf, and I just casually say, “Oh, at a little street market in Paris…” And they go, “Ahhh..”
Were there times during my travels when I was lonely or not feeling well? Sure, but I learned how to take care of myself, and that made all the difference. Hemingway was right— Paris is a “movable feast.”
Beth Hequist
Thanks for the reminder that it’s not all like the fantasy! I’m leaving in a couple weeks for a three month road trip around the United States, and I will remember these words!
Greg Brenner
Matt!
Love the candid sincere approach of this blog post. Keep them coming. Will meet up with you sometime across the planet next year!
Greg
Christopher Hampton
Hi Matt – I spent a couple of years in Paris – awhile ago now. On arrival I looked at all the French courses available. The best and the cheapest was the Language and Literature course at The Sorbonne University – smack bang in the Latin Quarter. It was one of the best experiences of my life. To be learning French in an institution that dates back to the Middle Ages (the chairs there often felt like they were originals) and to meet a wonderful array of foreigners all learning French was terrific. Whilst the learning was in a classroom setting – and in a linguistic lab every couple of weeks – the really great socialisation aspect made up for it.
Ilantha
When I studied abroad in Costa Rica for three months, I, too, had a slow, rather lonely start. (Although I didn’t have to worry about logistics like apartment or job.) The last month was by far the best, I had finally made friends and began exploring more. The last week was so packed full of wonderful experiences–squeezing the last drops out of my time and barely sleeping–it made up for the whole first two months of loneliness. 🙂
Timothy F Darling
Hello Matt,
Each year I have been going to Asia (Thailand and Japan) for 2 to 3 months and it feels a bit like living there.
For me I like more details in your comments/story. For example how much does a one bedroom apartment cost? What is a cool walking neighborhood, etc.
Another example is I like to golf and go to the gym.
So how does one joing a gym how much does it cost.
If you want to golf can you and where and how much does it cost.
For me its about the details not just brush strokes, Thanks Timothy
Michelle
Hey Matt,
Like the change in direction – it’s so refreshing to see someone blogging honestly about both the good and the bad. So many blogs these days just seem like photo/story clickbait to make out it’s all awesome and ‘why aren’t you doing this too, it’s sooooo easy, if you just follow my 10 step guide….’ .Etc etc. Which whilst I get why and support encouraging people to open their minds to the different lifestyle choices available – your honesty is much appreciated. Hope you continue to enjoy Paris – though I suspect you may find big city still has too many distractions!
Cheers,
Michelle
NomadicMatt
Thanks!
Fraser Hunter
Just curious, but why only four months in Paris. It’s a city that can literally take a life time to know! Hope in the next three months you have an opportunity to see some of the world outside Paris, but before the worst of the summer tourist wave. . . Like Mt. St. Michael, Honfleur, Bayeux, and the WWII landing beaches, all in Normandy. Also the Chateaux of the Loire Valley, and Chartres Cathedral. Not to be missed. I envy you your three more months!
NomadicMatt
I have to go back to the US at the end of June for TravelCon and then a two month book tour for my next book (it comes out in July). If I love Paris, I’ll come back!
Ana
Hi Matt, I am actually a semi-local in Paris. If you wanna meet up sometime for a chat that’d be fun.
I’ve mostly studied in France and worked for a bit in Paris. It could be cool to connect.
Let me know though email if you r interested.
And I could help out with your French if need be^^
Ana
Grant
I didn’t realize the stay was for such a short duration. I’ve been to Paris many times, in fact, I met my wife in Paris (cool story, IMHO) and have always imagined myself getting a small apartment up on Montmartre with a desk at the window looking out over Paris as I wrote my life story – of all my undocumented travels. When I looked into the apartment situation on my last trip there, it was apparent that this was a dream that probably wasn’t going to happen in this life time. So I bought a house in the mountains of Romania and live most of my time now in Bali (the house in Romania is more for summers and a place for my wifes mother to live and look after the place for us).
Paris is the city of love, though. From my personal experience, not only did I meet my wife there, but had previously met a gal from Belgium who I dated when living in Amsterdam (Utrecht, to be exact), and before that, a Thai gal from Bangkok who I dated on and off a bit when bouncing around the world, and an American gal once. My wife was the last gal I met in Paris and this time it was the real deal. We are now living in Bali after spending a few years in Singapore together and have two kids to show for this amazing relationship.
Kelsey Lander
Hey Matt!
Just getting caught up on a few of your recent blogs. Love that you’re doing those walking tours! I’ve actually been looking at booking a last minute trip to Paris or somewhere in Spain for the end of this month. Will you be doing any additional meet ups?
Thanks,
Kelsey
NomadicMatt
We’re doing one on April 16th at 7:30pm at Les Piaules!
Lisa
Anita, I traveled to Colombia by myself and while Bogota is a bit “edgy” as Matt mentioned, it is like any other big city, you need to be aware of what’s going on around you and always use your gut instinct. I stayed at a hostel in La Candelaria district. I didn’t walk around at night by myself, but met lots of people at the hostel and we went out in groups. During the daytime I felt fine walking around this historic area on my own. Bogota is an amazing city so I hope you do visit.
Denise Grassart
Hi,
I believed I have booked a tour of Paris on the 26th of April, but I don’t know the time or place. I’m enjoying your blog, though.
Thanks,
Denise
Gavin
Bon jour Matt! Really appreciate your perspective here as I’m considering a live/work stay in Paris for 2mos. I did a 1-month stay and worked way too much to accommodate my US west-coast life, so I want to have a more immersive experience next time. How did you find the private tutor? And ex-pat groups?
Also, have been thinking of an AirBnB stay not renting an apartment – but is that not the way to go? Thanks for your advice and bon chance on your book launch!