Updated: 01/07/20 | January 7th, 2020
“Where are you going?” he asked from the driver’s seat.
“Thingeyri,” I replied. A confused look appeared on the man’s face.
“Thingeyri,” I said again, this time changing the intonation in my voice.
“Ahh, Thingeyri! Yes, I can take you there!”
Earlier that morning, I’d woken up on one end of Iceland with the goal of heading to the Westfjords, Iceland’s remote northwestern tip that sees few tourists. I’d crossed a beautiful bay as I’d took the ferry to Brjánslækur.
From there, I naïvely assumed the bus to Thingeyri would align with the ferry’s arrival. But, soon after landing, the dockmaster corrected that assumption: there wasn’t a bus until 6:30 p.m.
It was 11 a.m.
Crap, I thought.
I raced to the top of the dock in hopes a car would pick me. In Iceland, hitchhiking is common as buses are often infrequent.
But, as the cars exited the dock, driving off to complete their journey, none stopped for me. Scores of other people walked toward waiting cars filled with friends and family and ignored my jutted-out thumb.
Alone, I went into the ferry terminal, ate some soup, and ventured back to the road. To my left was the empty dock and, past that, a vast, tranquil bay that shimmered on this sunny day.
To the right were farms, sheep, and rolling hills. The only sign of human activity was the little red ferry building where, if all else failed, I could stay until the bus came.
I waited.
And waited some more.
In the distance, a car.
I stuck out my thumb.
As the car passed, the driver looked at me but didn’t slow down.
I waited some more.
A few more cars passed and I stuck out my thumb and put a smile on my face but they too just drove past me.
Thankfully, it was a beautiful, warm, clear day — the first that entire week. The sun shone brightly above, and the sheep grazed in the meadows. Google Maps showed a gas station six kilometers away. There was a crossroads there and I’d hoped I’d have better luck there.
As a meandered to my destination, I marveled at how quiet it was. I was used to the loud cacophony of New York City but here I only heard wind and my footsteps. I was in no rush, and the serenity and calm of my surroundings made the long walk bearable. I passed black sand beaches filled with sheep — even they knew to take advantage of the weather.
When I finally made it to the crossroads, I saw a family eating in the picnic area nearby. Maybe they would give me a lift. I made sure to look in their direction often. They noticed me. Walking further up the road, I stuck out my thumb.
They too drove past.
Hours passed. Cars came up the main road. I stuck out my thumb but the drivers shrugged, turned on their blinkers, and headed off in the wrong direction.
I was ready to give up, trudge back to the ferry building, and wait for the bus, but then, like an Icelandic angel descending from heaven in a gigantic steel cage, Stefan stopped his SUV and picked me up.
I got into his car and he drove off like Speed Racer. The road was in rough condition, opened only a few weeks ago due to a late winter and cold spring. There was still a lot of snow on the ground. “In the winter, this is all snow and you can’t drive here,” he said waving at the land outside the window.
The road turned to gravel as we whizzed through the mountains. I was jostled up and down as we hit a few potholes, and I closed my eyes as we took turns too fast for comfort, hoping he would notice that and slow down.
He did not.
But, for all the discomfort, I couldn’t help but stare agape at the landscape that unfolded before me. Around me were melting glaciers, with rivers of clear blue water cutting into the snow.
To my left were huge valleys where waterfalls fell down mountains into rivers and snows disappeared under the summer sun, leaving the growing grass a bright green. On flatter ground, the water pooled into lakes, and travelers stopped to take pictures.
Stefan and I talked a bit. His lack of English and my lack of Icelandic made long conversations difficult but we shared the basics. He was a fisherman from Reykjavik and married with four kids. “Triplets,” he says giving me a “right, I know” look. He was returning to Thingeyri to prepare for another ten days at sea.
During the journey, he pointed out landmarks and searched for the English word to describe them. I helped him when I could. I’d poorly repeat the word in Icelandic, Stefan would correct me, and I would fail again.
We drove through the mountains into a thick fog. When we could barely see a meter ahead, he slowed down, taking his time to drive the mountain road. As we crept along, I occasionally glimpsed the snow-covered precipices we would careen over if he wasn’t careful. I was relieved Stefan had finally decided to drive with caution.
As we made our way down the mountain, the fog lifted and he pointed to a small town ahead. “Thingeyri.”
He dropped me off at my guesthouse and we said good-bye — he was off to sea, I was off to hike the mountains.
The next morning I awoke to see the fjord and mountains, free from the fog of yesterday. As I hiked up Sandfell Mountain, I thought about Stefan and his willingness to help a stranger by side of the road. Wherever his boat was, I hope he was filling it with fish and knew that somewhere out there was lone traveler eternally grateful for the experience.
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Katie
Sometimes it feels like no one is ever going to stop for you but when you do finally get that ride it is such an amazing feeling! Great post Matt
Margaret
Loved this post Matt…brought back so many memories of my 12 days in Iceland last July. It is a truly wonderful place to visit..would return in a heartbeat!
Monika
Great story! Reminds me my past. Upon hearing about my past hitchhiking days people are always horrified and asking whether I was afraid of murdering, kidnapping etc. To be honest all my experiences were positive. There are so many good people out there willing to go the extra mile just to help you out. You wouldn’t meet them otherwise and it kind of restores your faith in humanity!
Sarah A
beautifully written, Matt!
Liam
Wow, written remarkably and the pics are breathtaking. I know you’ll be the first to say that you’ve come a long way as a writer
NomadicMatt
Wow! Thank you for such a great comment! Humbling!
Lauren Meshkin
Stefan, what a lad! Those pictures are beautiful. Iceland is at the top of my travel list. Not sure if I’ll hitchhike though.. who knows! 😉
jemmi
Beautifully written.
Christine
That is more blue sky than we saw over the last ten days there, but Iceland was still amazing!
Anna
Wow, your photos are incredible. Have you hitchhiked around the United States at all?
NomadicMatt
Not yet!
Rylan
I found those lulls – the gaps in rides among lonely field and towering mountains to be among the most enjoyable. Matt, I recommend you try two things next time.
1- Just walk without thumbing. It’s a crazy feeling being happily surprised by someone stopping to see what the heck someone walking in the middle of ‘nowhere’ with a backpack is doing. (And it happens more than one might think!)
2 – Try smiling and waving as opposed to the thumb. Like the above recommendation I find people make eye contact longer if you’re ‘just being friendly’. And again along the same lines – you might be surprised how many people will just stop to ask what you’re doing. Even if they don’t offer a ride.
And sometimes THAT makes it worth it itself. Leaving you thinking.. “Why would they stop and not offer a ride?”. Oh people 🙂
Jon
Awesome photography matt. I am a season traveler. But never hitchhike an iceland before. But now after reading your article I think i should also hitchhike an iceland.
Jeroen Vogel
Hi Matt, I enjoyed this post a lot. Not sure if you have written like this in the past, but the description of scenery mixed with action (the waiting for a lift, being hopeful that the last family would go your way, the fisherman who eventually does) makes for a great read that provides both real(istic) information on Iceland and being there as a traveller. I’m looking forward to read more such posts!
Joe
Great post! Iceland was my favorite destination my family went on, I will be blogging about that adventure soon. I’m glad I found your site.
Faith
A stellar article, Matt! Perfectly described and incredible pictures. I’ve only hitchhiked once in Israel since no buses seemed to be on the way where I was. Lots of kind people out there. Thanks for sharing!
Eyal
Loved the photos. Good Samaritan angels always come your way, if you put out to the Universe that you need help. My own travel experiences are proof.
Chalsie
I really enjoyed reading this article Matt! I’m heading to Iceland in November, alas I won’t be alone. We’re planning on driving around the Island, taking in as much beauty as we possibly can. I cannot wait.
NomadicMatt
Pick up some hitchhikers! It’s cold and lonely by the side of the road!
Glenn M. Vasquez
Very nice photos and beautiful places there.Hope to b there someday 😛
Stephanie
I enjoyed reading this article Matt! Your photos and descriptions made your article really enjoyable for readers. You gave me ideas about some beautiful places to visit in Iceland, about (like attitudes of) people living in there and to mountains where I can hike. I really found your Journey in Iceland cool and Thanks for sharing about your Journey!
Nica
Very nice! I like the way how you imparted the story to us, the readers. It’s very descriptive and imaginative, to the point that I feel like I’ve been there too before. Hoping to read more of your blogs! Have a safe trip… 🙂
Kaye
I enjoyed reading this article Matt! Your photos and descriptions made your article really enjoyable for readers. You gave me ideas about some beautiful places to visit in Iceland. I wish i could bring my family there
Tony Skaggs
Your photos of Northwestern Iceland are just so beautiful…Iceland is breathtaking any time of the year, but in the summer…just lovely 🙂
NomadicMatt
Heck yeah! Couldn’t agree more!
July Gadabot
My friend and I travelled around Iceland by car two years ago, it was wonderful trip. But that time I even didn’t think about hitch-hiking in Iceland, it seems to complicated for me… But I like your story and courage to try this.
Samantha
That is an awesome trip. Glad you made it safely. Your pictures looks great and Iceland looks beautiful. It is on our list of to see places and hope to do it soon. Thanks for sharing.
Sianna
Beautiful photos and what a journey!
I am always struck by people’s generosity and helpfulness when you least expect it. That’s part of the magic of travelling, I guess
Bragi
Have a Marry Christmas and safe travels where ever you are my friend ?
NomadicMatt
Southeast Asia! Hope you are well!
Petr
Definitely I wanna visit Iceland!!!
Ólafur Bergur Ólafsson
Hi Matt. I´m a 17 year old Icelandic and I loved this article. I was wondering if you were planning to come back to Iceland at some point? I would love to travel my country more often and to be able to do it with an experienced traveler would be awesome. (also i´m pretty good in Icelandic History if you want to know a bit more about my country!
Kindest regards
Ólafur
Carolyn Bingham
Wonderful! I love to read stories of people helping people! Kindness and gratefulness go a long way.
Chandan
“The family continued to have the longest picnic ever.” That made me chuckle. Had been in similar situation 🙂 . So well written Matt
Dan
Simple connection. I “felt” your experience and could “see” what you were describing, no pics needed. Good stuff dude. I remember growing up in Oregon when my dad would hitchhike back to our car after rafting down the river. Always glad to see him return safely!