Phnom Phen

Phnom phen, the capital of Cambodia
Phnom Phen can be whatever you want it to be. It can be the gracious host, showing off its points of historic and cultural interests. Typically though, Phnom Phen is a wild and crazy place. Like the rest of Cambodia, there is a very “frontier” attitude in the city. It seems like anything goes here because it usually does. It’s a city in controlled chaos and that excitement is usually what sucks most people in. I ended up here for two weeks. It’s a love it or hate it place but no matter what side you come down on, no one every walks away bored.

Cambodia Travel Resources

How to Find a Cheap Flight
Buying a Travel Backpack
Finding Cheap Accommodation
Buying Travel Insurance
Off the Tourist Trail in Southeast Asia

Costs in Phnom Phen

  • Hostel Prices: Most rooms in the Lakeside backpacker area begin at $2 USD per night for a fan room. Air con rooms start at $5 USD per night.
  • Budget hotel prices: Better establishments cost around $10 USD per night and include air con and a private bathroom. The popular Riverside area is more expensive.
  • Average Cost of Food: Meals at street stalls cost less than $2 USD. Restaurant meals average $3-6 USD. Higher end places begin at $10 USD. Western food is always more expensive.
  • Cost of Internet: Internet costs about $1-2 USD per hour. Free WiFi is available at many guesthouses, cafes and restaurants, especially in the Riverside area.
  • Transportation Costs: Tuk-tuk trips should cost $1-2 USD within the city. A tuk-tuk to the Killing Fields and back should cost $6-8 USD and for a few dollars more can include more city sightseeing. You can rent a car and driver in Phnom Phen for around $30 USD per day.

Things to Do in Phnom Phen

  • Choeung Ek and Toul Sleng – This is the infamous killing fields. Choeung Ek is a series of exhumed mass graves, with a stupa at its center filled with the skulls of hundreds of men, women and children. Toul Sleng is the former high school the Khmer Rouge converted into a torture center where around 14,000 people were prepared for their deaths with electric shocks and other atrocities such as having their heads locked inside boxes of scorpions.
  • National Museum – The magnificent National Museum building houses thousands of artifacts and works of art from the more glorious periods of Cambodian history. There are more than 5000 pieces on display, and many more in storage. The vast majority on view are from the Angkor period, although there are also impressive examples of work from earlier and later periods. The building itself, with its chambers linked by a central courtyard, is an architectural masterpiece.
  • Independence Monument - Every Cambodian capital has one, but Phnom Penh’s Vimean Ekareach, or Independence Monument, is the finest. Designed by famed Cambodian architect Vann Molyvann, it was inaugurated in 1958 to mark Cambodia’s independence of French rule and now also serves as a defacto war memorial. Located at the intersection of Norodom and Sihanouk boulevards, it is a major city landmark, and is lit up at night. A smaller replica of this monument takes place in Kampong Chhnang town.
  • Royal Palace – You can see the old Royal Place in the heart of the city. The Royal family doesn’t live here anymore but there are some good temples and architecture around. You’ll find information about the history of the royal family, interesting temples, and an amazing courtyard.
  • The Silver Pagoda - The Silver Pagoda has murals running around its outer wall telling the story of the Ramayana, though they are in poor condition. Within the grounds are five stupas, with the two largest to the east containing the ashes of King Norodom and King Udung, while between them stands a statue of King Norodom on horseback.
  • The Central Market – Built in 1937, this art-deco ziggurat seems very out of place in Phnom Penh. A huge dome with four wings, it’s a good place to seek refuge from the mid day sun and is also a fascinating market to wander through. Save your shopping for elsewhere though, even when you bargain them down, you pay a hugely inflated price.
  • The Russian Market - Popular with expats and tourists for buying pirated DVDs and CDs, fake designer clothing, handicrafts, and anything else you could ever think of. The place got its name from the Russians who shopped here in the 1980s.
  • Hang out by the Lake – The lake area is where all the budget and backpacker guesthouses are. It’s a tourist trap but there are many good bars, a 2 dollar all you can eat Indian place, decent western food, and is a great place to meet other travelers.
  • The Cambodian Performing Arts Center – This is a small traditional dance school were visitors are welcome to watch students in training or, if set up in advance, a fully costumed performance can be seen.
  • The National Library – Constructed in 1924, this building is beautiful and emits a certain air of grace. For a brief period of time, it was transformed into a stable and may of the books there were destroyed—but it was put back together during the early 1980’s.
  • Volunteer in an orphanage – There are many orphanages throughout Cambodia and particularly within the city of Phnom Penh. Spending time to help out in one is a very alternative way to get to know the culture and the people of Cambodia, but it is a deep and interesting experience.
  • Shoot a gun – This is another odd ball attraction, but for those that are into shooting guns, you can fire any weapon you want here. There are about 50 different kinds of weapons that you can fire, set off, and throw—many of which, require licenses everywhere else in the world or are entirely illegal. If you want, you can even blow up a cow. But don’t, because that’s just cruel and twisted.

Budget Tips for Phnom Phen

  • Free Hostel Shuttles: Many hostels will have free shuttle service around the city. Some even offer it to and from the airport.
  • Negotiate with Tuk Tuk Drivers: Make sure you negotiate the price ahead of time. Moreover, don’t take the first number they give you- it’s inflated.
  • Don’t Let Tuk-Tuk Drivers Overcharge. The rate should be the same whether you have one or four people.
  • Take Tuk-Tuks Earlier in the Day. Prices rise around sunset and negotiating is more difficult.
  • Stay at the Lakeside Area. Though establishments are being torn down continuously, this backpacker-filled alley still has the cheapest guesthouses around and lots of cheap restaurants.
  • Shop at Markets. The Central Market (Psar Thmei) is one of the cheapest places for Cambodian souvenirs. Bargaining is expected and will get you a better price. The food stalls have cheap food, too.