Valencia without the Oranges

Valencia Spain housesFamous for its Oranges, Valencia is located roughly in the middle of Spain’s Mediterranean coast. I wasn’t attracted to Valencia for any reason in particular- I come for the tomato fight in the nearby town of Bunol. However, Valencia is famous in its own right for great seafood, paella, history, and good soccer team.

Given all the festivities going on around La Tomatina, it was quite hard to devote a lot of time exploring the city and I certainly didn’t get in as much in as I would have liked. There were a few good museums and churches that were left undiscovered until my next eventual visit. That being said I did manage in to squeeze in a few attractions.

As I said in previous posts, one of the things I like about Europe are the free walking tours. You learn a bit of history, you get your bearings around the city, and, well, it’s free. It shouldn’t be any surprise then that I took a free walking tour in Valencia. Valencia, it turns out, has quite a long history. It was started as a retirement community so to speak for Roman soldiers. Later it was conquered by the Moors, then the Spanish, then the Moors, and then finally the Spanish again.

All that has lead to some great architecture, especially around with the Plaza de la Virgin. There’s the Valencia Cathedral with its Gothic architecture, which towers over the adjoining plazas. It’s one of the nicer cathedrals I’ve seen. What I really enjoyed about Valencia were the wide clean streets, the ancient winding streets of the Barrio del Carmen, and the typical Spanish style buildings with their large doors, balconies, and windows.
Valencia Spain housesValencia Cathedral
What I found the most enjoyable during my time in Valencia (besides the tomatoes) was the food. The food here broke my budget. In fact, I’ve been a bad budget traveler with all the festivals, sangria, and paella I’ve been eating but why come to Spain and not enjoy yourself, right? Coming back to Spain has reminded me one of the reasons why I liked it so much- the whole tapas culture. Everywhere I went restaurants had people relaxing outside in tables nibbling on tapas, drinkings, chatting, and relaxing in the hot sun. Looking like fun, I joined frequently and had some interesting tapas. I especially enjoyed the Spanish sausage called chorizo.

Valencia Spain housesThe best (and most expensive meal) I had was down by the beach. Let me just first say that the beach in Valencia isn’t that impressive. It’s a typical city beach with a bit of trash and lots of cigarette butts on it. Valencia has a big port so while the water is refreshing, I wouldn’t say it’s the cleanest in the world. The beach is good for a quick trip to cool off from the sun but overall, I left unimpressed. However, the area has a lot of restaurants on the promenade, the most famous of which is called La Papita, which is over 100 years old. A number of us from the hostel went there and had what could only be the best paella ever. We got three different types- seafood, squid ink (arroz negro), and one with noodles, which was my favorite and apparently, original to the area. Moreover, the calamari I got was some of the softest I’ve ever eaten. It melted in my mouth in sheer goodness. If you are ever in Valencia and enjoy good seafood, this restaurant must be on your list of places to go.

During my short time in Valencia, nothing about it wowed me the way other cities in Spain have. But nothing really disappointed me either. If I was on a limited schedule in Spain, other places like Madrid, Barcelona or Granada might get more of my attention but if I had some extra time, Valencia would be worth making a trip too. It’s nice Spanish city with a number of things to do, good architecture, a good museum, and delicious seafood.

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Comments

7 Responses to “Valencia without the Oranges”
  1. In all my almost 8 years travelling, Valencia is the only place in the world that managed to convince me to stay for an entire YEAR. There’s something amazing about this city; I never bothered much with the museums or churches, or took a free tour, but the locals are super friendly, the university nightlife is amazing (you wouldn’t see that in August) and the fallas parties in March are spectacular.
    Because it isn’t as famous to foreigners as Barcelona or Madrid, but is still Spain’s 3rd biggest city, it has a million things going on, but is actually surprisingly cheap since it isn’t overrun with tourists during the academic year (eating at the beach is of course going to be more expensive!! The nightclubs there are expensive too).
    I agree with you about the beach; nothing too impressive and far from clean. Despite living there for a year I almost never went to the beach! Too busy partying inland :D
    Valencia kick started my world tour. That city changed my life forever and I absolutely adore it and count it as one of my favourite places on the planet. Based on your account and others’, I would say that it is ideal for living in, but perhaps not the best place to visit briefly, although the futuristic Oceanográfico and Opera House certainly merit a gasp or two!
    Amunt Valencia!! (Go/Up Valencia!)

  2. I loved the few days I spent in Valencia last spring – we saw loads of stuff, went cycling, museums, bargain food, made a local friend through Hospitality Club. I thought it was just as great as Barcelona but with more of an authentic Spanish feel. Agree with you the beach is just a city beach but fine for a couple of hours relaxing. Wondered where you stayed as there are some great modern hostels. We stayed in Home Backpackers in Barrio Carmen (great for party lovers but not if you want to get any sleep) and then Home Rooms Deluxe, would recommend both.

  3. It’s really nice to read about Valencia and other Spanish cities. I’m moving to the south of Spain, probably Seville, soon and I’m looking forward to reading about these places. Valencia seems to be nice and I don’t need to say about the Tomatina. Maybe next year… we never know..

    Keep writing about your experience in Spain! Can’t wait for the next article.

    Good luck,
    Guillermo

  4. Andrea says:

    I’ve yet to be wowed by any of the Spanish cities I’ve visited but I have to say, the food has always been incredible.

  5. I will go anywhere for good food and now I’m hungry reading your tales about the calamari.. Yum..

  6. mochilero says:

    Sadly about the beach, in Spain people doesn’t care so much about its cleaning. Sad but true, and not proud of that since I’m spanish.

  7. Andi says:

    Awesome review & photos! Sometimes it’s impossible to not indulge with good food. :)

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