I Dream of Songkran

By Nomadic Matt | Published April 13th, 2008

Songkran, Thailand's New Year in Bangkok Right now, all across the land of smiles, people are soaking each other with water and flour. The country is in the midst of the world’s biggest water fight as tourists and locals engage in the time-honored tradition of seeing who can walk away wetter without passing out from beer first. Yes, it’s Songkran again. Time for the Thais to celebrate their new year.

Songkran is the time of cleaning and rebirth. Originally, the date shifted depending on the astrological calendar, but in the 1800s, the celebration dates became fixed. Now Thais welcome in a new year April 13–15th, with the main celebration day being the 14th. This day is celebrated by attending temple and cleansing the body and mind. Water is meant as a way to pay respect to the elders and also symbolizes cleansing. In ancient times, elders and priests were even given baths by the youth. Many Thais make sure to honor the traditional Songkran before they partake in the modern tradition—the world’s most giant water fight!!

All over the country, people stock up on super soakers, fill water balloons, set up “refill” stations (Thais are very entrepreneurial), and get ready for three crazy days of partying. All over, tourists, expats, and locals engage in a gigantic water war fueled by happiness and beer. Bangkok and the northern city of Chiang Mai usually hold the two biggest festivals, but something’s going on in every town in every part of the country. It also helps that this time of the year is the hottest in Thailand, so this is an opportunity for Thais to cool down for a few days.

Songkran being celebrated in Chaing Mai Thailand As I type this, my friends are enjoying themselves in the City of Angels, getting unprepared tourists soaking wet and having a great time while I sit here and remember my last Songkran. Last year, I was with a group of friends on Khao San Road. I lived in the tourist area of Bangkok, which also happens to be the major area for Songkran. During this three-day festival, streets are shut down, sidewalk vendors told to move, and 100,000 people flood in to take part in the most insane spectacle I’ve ever witnessed. Everyone, young and old, is on the streets spraying you with water and occasionally wiping your face full of flour.

The all-day water fight carries on into the night as people have dance parties in the street and major roads are shut down to accommodate them. What’s truly amazing about this holiday is how friendly everyone is about it. Everyone’s so polite about covering you in water and smearing you with flour. Many will say “sorry” while they do it. As you get involved in big water fights, everyone’s still all smiles. Walk down the street, spray a stranger, and they just laugh and spray you back and go on. You could never have this type of festival in the West—people would get drunk and start fights or riots would break out. “Hey man, don’t get me wet!” they would say. But here it’s all smiles. Everyone expects it.

Songkran on Khao San RoadBut like everywhere else, there are cops around. I remember walking down the street firing people and hitting a cop. After speaking some Thai to his fellow officers, three of them started moving towards me with looks on their faces. Now we all know what happens when cops get involved, so I was not happy to see them as they began walking closer to me and drawing their weapons. They started yelling at me in Thai as they came closer and fired. So I did what anyone would do in that situation—I fired back. They got me good, but I managed to soak one of them pretty bad before one snuck behind me and covered me with cold water. Three against one in a water fight is tough, but we all had a good laugh. A holiday where the cops get involved is sure to be fun.

This year I dream of Songkran, but next year I’ll be holding a water gun.

Curious about other awesome festivals around the world? Read about some of them here:

comments 5 Comments

Shantanu

We have a very similar festival called, Holi, but we actually use color (along with water). Looks like a lot of fun!

Nastassia

That’s awesome, we have the color run in Atlanta.

backpakker

As Shantanu says..it did bring Holi immediately to my mind..You will enjoy it for sure
lakshmi

The Asian Traveler

Hi Matt, thanks for always visiting my page. Nice travel blog you have here.

By the way, we have the same festival in the Philippines, it’s called “Basaan Festival” celebrated by the people of San Juan. All the people old and young carry buckets and basins with water to the streets. There are also some fire trucks that roam around the town spraying water to everyone. I haven’t experience this, but it sounds like lots and lots of fun!

Jonas Linh

I will come to Thaiand next week! Hope to come there!

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