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Thailand’s Street Food Culture

July 15, 2008

Hot Chilis It is 6 p.m. in Bangkok and all over street vendors are busy selling food. Thais do almost of their grocery shopping on the street. Locals walk down the street with little bags full of rice, curry, noodles, or soup. In Thailand, eating is a social activity where the pains of hunger tell you when to eat, not the hour of the day.

Wandering the streets of Bangkok is a gastronomical dream. Stalls line the streets selling everything from snacks to sit down meal. Sections of a street will specialize in certain products and the time of the day dictates which stalls will be out with the precision of a Swiss watch.

A Day in the Life
Waking up for breakfast, I strolled down the street. All around me Thais were buying food for the day. Workers were buying their lunch- loading up on rice and curry, noodle dishes, and soup. The woman next to me was buying fruit.

I grabbed my friend bananas and went off to explore the city. After a few hours, I was hungry again. Thai food is not very filling and one of the reasons why Thai’s are always eating. Thais eat consistently throughout the day because the eat small portions of very light meals. Thais traditionally eat very low calorie means, though the rise of the western diet has recently lead to an increase in obesity. Now I was in Chinatown, looking for a pre-lunch snack.
Street Vendor
Around me were sellers selling candies, fried fish, pad Thai, fruit, and meat on stick- anything you could think of. It was a buffet and I wanted to choose everything. I snacked on some chicken. The smell was powerful as the cook pasted it with spices over the grill. He handed it over to me and, as it steamed, I put it in my mouth. It was hot but it good. The chicken had a nice garlic taste to it and was good just right. I picked some chopped pineapple for the road.

Lunch time rolled around and I sat myself down at a little stall. Thais were trickling out of their offices and descending on these vendors for their mid-day meal. I ordered some curry- western style (mild). Thais love their curry and all throughout the streets the smell of chili pervades the air. The seats around me filled with locals chatty quickly about the day. My Thai wasn’t a good enough to understand. I just enjoyed my meal that was still too spicy for me.

After lunch, I continued trekking around. I let me nose guide me. I nibbled on the fruit I had and picked up some fried wontons. When that was finished, I picked up some spring rolls. I find Thai spring rolls to be delicious- they’re light, crispy, and the sweet chili sauce adds just the right element of spice.
Food Dinner arrived as I made my way back downtown. It had been a good day of eating and I was still stuffed. Dinner was going to be a small meal. Looking at all the shops around, I wondered what to eat. I had eaten so much today. I could smell curry and soup, hear the frying of chicken and the cooking of fish! I’m never going to go hungry in this city I thought.

I sat down for some pat gao paow. It’s a chili dish with minced chicken and basil. It ordered it mai pet (not spicy). I ate it over a bowl of rice. Even to Thai’s not spicy means a little chili and for every mouth full I had, I needed two mouth fulls of water. Despite having lived in Thailand for a few months now, I was still unaccustomed to spicy foods. Despite it all, I ate it all. My mouth a volcano as I thanked the cook.

After a long day of eating, it was time to lie down on my couch, unbuckle the belt, and watch some TV. But not before I got some snacks for later.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Thailand | 6 Comments

Starting a Revolution

June 4, 2008

“Sit down!” I said.

But the student still got up.

“Sit down. You’re disrupting the class.” I repeated.

The student looked over at his friend, said something in Thai, and continued drawing on the board. I moved over from the other side of the room, and again told him to sit down. He looked at me and moved closer. A gasp went through the room. I looked at him and told him to get out of my classroom. He looked at me and contemplated his next move.

It had been brewing for weeks. The student always pushed my buttons and my efforts to reign him and his followers in had met with defeat. I’d heard stories about the respect of Thai students so I never expected this situation. But my students talked constantly, slept in class, played video games, or texted on their mobile phone. I had brought the issues up with the school but nothing had been done.

Now, I was watching them leave my room, pumping their fists in the air. Thais are communal so once a few students started leaving, more followed until, finally, the good kids looked at me with the “sorry but we have to follow the crowd” face and got up too.

In Asia, the concept of “saving face” is extremely important. Everyone has to “save face “or lose face, especially to an outsider. Make someone lose enough face and you better watch out- they’ll come for you! Thai’s are an extraordinarily nice people but they have no middle ground. Bring enough shame to a Thai and soon you will find yourself in a world of bodily harm. They don’t get mad- they get even. I had made this kid lose enough face that he had to get even- and the only way he could was by ruining my class.

There were meetings. Apologies. In the end, many of these problems were institutional and there was nothing I could do. I had let go. The administration laid the blame on me and told me to just “have fun” with my students. The teachers came out in support. “It’s always like this.” “Those students have been like that for years.” “Just help the ones that want to learn.” I was morally defeated. It seemed I was the only one who wanted to teach.

So I went back in. My students looked at me. They knew they had won. I could do nothing. They smiled in victory. And I let them do what they wanted. Those who worked did fine. I failed the rest.

After this, I began to rethink my teaching strategy. Maybe I was overly strict with my students. Not only did this cause problems in the classroom but also caused me undue stress. I decided I’d become more lax and accommodating to the Thai culture. It would keep the classes going but reduce my stress. I’ve become more relaxed with all my students. Letting go sometimes isn’t so bad. It makes everything a little easier and a little more fun. And when learning is fun, kids are more focused.

The Chinese have the same symbol for crisis and opportunity. This incident was both and opened up a world of insight not only about Thai culture but also about me. They may seem aggravating at the time but crises on the road can provide us with nothing but increased insights into other cultures as well as ourselves. Cherish them greatly.

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Thailand | 6 Comments

The trip that started it all

May 16, 2008

I’ve been working to upload all the photos I’ve ever taken on holiday and I’m finally done. Uploading the photos, I found all the pictures I took in Thailand in 2005. Walking down memory lane was a fond experience, not only because I enjoyed my pictures, but because Thailand is where it all began.

My 2004 trip to Costa Rica might have given me the travel bug, but it was my trip in 2005 that changed my life. It was there that I discovered, on the beaches and in the jungles, that traveling was my passion. That this was what I wanted to do. It was there that I decided to quit my job and begin an endless journey. A journey without goals. Ever since then, I’ve been a nomad.

We all have one trip that changes us. One moment that redefines us and how we travel. Thailand 2005 was my moment and here are a few pictures from that trip.

Lamai Beach, Ko Samui

Lipa Noi Beach, Ko Samui

Longboats

Sunset in Samui

Monks in Chang Mai

Northern Thailand

Wat in Chang Mai

An Awesome Elephant

Bangkok

The Reclining Buddha in Bangkok

The Grand Palace

You can see the rest of the photos from this trip by clicking here.

Do you have any trips that changed your life?

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Thailand | 10 Comments

My Favorite Country: Thailand

April 18, 2008

(I’d thought I’d be different and go poetic this post!)

I love Thailand.
From its beaches, to its jungles
from its animals, to its people.

Amazing sunset,
Amazing sunrise,
everyday there,
is like a prize.

Bangkok, its capital, is a mess,
but you’ll find getting lost,
usually works out for the best.
Hidden temples and little alleys,
theres just way too many to tally.
Malls and shops are all over
from MBK to Siam to Paragon,
whoops! now all my baht is gone!

Late night clubs will have you dancing,
while all those Thai girls are a prancing.
You’ll go to Patong to see all the hype,
and see a ping pong show if your that type.

Khao San Road is the place ,
for any one under 25 to show their face.
Looking for ex-pats, you don’t have to go far,
Cheap Charlies is their favorite bar.

Up north you find jungles and ruins,
or maybe spy a hilltribe beetlenut a chewin.
Jungle tours here and jungle tours there,
will make you wonder “why not stay here?”

Cities like Pai, Chang Mai, and Chang Rai,
make you want to give country living a try.
Ride an elephant, see a bird!
Just watch out for that giant turd!
Ex-pats here and ex-pats there
but whoa! Just don’t let that old sex-pat get near!

Ko Lanta, Ko Lipe, or Phuket,
there beach paradise is what you get.
With crystal clear water and long sandy beaches,
slow living is what Thailand preaches.
Get a coconut, get a massage,
or spend your day at that kickin’ bar!
Scuba dive, snorkel, or swim
there something for Julie to Jim.

At night, party your day away
all this will just make you want to stay.
Full moon Rave on Hat rin
their buckets will certainly make you swing.
That night, despite being hungover
you’ll be doing it again all over.

Thai food is spicy but yummy
and sits good in my tummy.
Too many chili’s make me cringe
so on Pad Thai I will binge!
Eat on the street, eat in a shop,
the food is so good no one can top!

Thailand has so much,
I didn’t know where to start.
I hope you liked my poem
and makes you want to roam.
so now you can tell ME-

what’s your favorite country?

Posted by NomadicMatt | Filed Under Thailand | 1 Comment

I dream of Songkran

April 13, 2008

Right now, all across the land of smiles, people are soaking themselves with water and tossing flour on each other. The country is in the midst of the world’s biggest water fight as tourists and locals engage in the time honored tradition of seeing who can walk away wetter without passing out from the beer first. Yes, it’s Songkran again. Time for the Thai’s to celebrate their new year.

Songkran is the time of cleaning and rebirth. Originally, the date shifted depending on the astrological calender but, in the 1800s, the date became fixed. This day is celebrated by attending temple and cleansing the body and mind. Water is meant as a way to pay respect to the elders as well as symbolized cleansing. In ancient times, elders and priests were even given baths by the youth. Many Thais make sure to honor the traditional Songkran before they partake in the modern tradition- the world’s most giant water fight!!

All over the country, people stock up on supersoakers, fill water balloons, set up “refill” stations (Thai’s are very entrepreneurial) and get ready for three crazy days of partying. All over tourists, ex-pats, and locals engage in a gigantic water war fueled by happiness and a little beer. Bangkok and the northern city of Chang Mai usually hold the two biggest festivals but in every town in every part of the country, something is going on. It also helps that this time of the year is the hottest in Thailand and this is an opportunity for Thais to cool down for a few days.

As I type this, my friends are enjoying themselves in the City of Angels, getting unprepared tourists soaking wet and having a great time, while I sit here and remember my last Songkran. Last year, I was with a group of friends on Khoa San road. I lived in the tourist area of Bangkok, which also happens to be the major area for Songkran. During this 3 day festival, streets were shut down, sidewalk vendors told to move and 100,000 people flood in to take part in the most insane spectacle I have ever witnessed. Everyone, young and old, is on the streets spraying you with water and occasionally wiping your face full of flour.

The all day water fight carries on into the night as people have dance parties in the street and major roads are shut down to accommodate them.What is truly amazing about this holiday is how friendly everyone is about it. Everyone is so polite about covering you in water and smearing flour all over yourself. Many will say “sorry” while they do it. As you get involved in big water fights, everyone is still all smiles. Walk down the street, spray a stranger, and they just laugh and spray you back and go on. You could never have this type of festival in the West- people would get drunk and start fights or riots would break out. “Hey man, don’t get me wet!” they would say. But here it is all smiles. Everyone expects it.

But, like everywhere else, there are cops around. I remember walking down the street firing people and I hit a cop. After speaking some Thai to his fellow officers, three of them started moving towards me with looks on their faces. Now we all know what happens when cops get involved so I was not happy to seem them as they began walking closer to me and drawing their weapons. They started yelling at me in Thai as they came closer and fired. So I did what I one would do in a situation like this- I fired back. They got me good but I managed to soak one of them pretty bad before one snuck behind me and cover me with cold water. Three against one in a water fight is tough. But we all had a good laugh. A holiday where the cops get involved is sure be fun.