This year, as I finally made my way through Central and Eastern Europe, I vowed to see Krakow. All of my friends couldn’t stop raving about how amazing the city is. A friend who studied abroad there years ago jumped with glee when I told her I was finally going.

But when I arrived, I was underwhelmed and incredibly disappointed.

It’s not to say that Krakow isn’t a great place. It is. It offers a beautiful historic center well-preserved from the middle ages, a crazy nightlife, decent food, and friendly locals. I enjoyed a lot of what I did and saw while there. The history of the old salt mines outside the city was fascinating, and I enjoyed the free historical tour through the old Jewish quarter. I loved the old castle and its botched and misshapen Italian piazza. And I spent a good day strolling through the tree-lined parked that rings the city center.

As a lover of underground city attractions, I marveled at the ruins of the old town square buried beneath the new one. It was interesting to see just how many meters “above ground” Krakow now stood.

And I especially loved the city night life. Every night my hostel, Greg and Tom (one of my favorites in Europe), ran pub crawls and vodka tastings. And no matter what day of the week it was, the pubs and clubs of Krakow seemed full.

But all of that doesn’t make Krakow the greatest thing since sliced bread. Everyone talks about Krakow as if it is some marvel, some Emerald City-like city but if I were to list my top twenty places in Europe, Krakow wouldn’t even make the bottom of that list. When I think of historic and beautiful medieval cities, I think of Prague, Tallinn, Brno, and Sighisoara just to name a few. They all are far more beautiful and have a far better historic atmosphere to them.

I think Krakow gets hyped for a few reasons.

First, it’s hard to deny that it is pretty. People generally love medieval European cities and Krakow has a marvelously preserved historic center with old buildings, tiny alleys, and cobblestone streets. There’s even a fortress wall around part of it. Additionally, even the modern portion of the city is well-built, with seemingly little of the communist blandness that so stains most of the old Soviet Bloc.

Moreover, it’s a young city. There are a lot of students and travelers here so you find a lot of youthful energy coursing throughout the city. It definitely has that college town feel to it, which also might explain the other reason Krakow is so popular.

There is a ton of cheap alcohol flowing throughout the city.

It was the one thing everyone mentioned to me when they talked about Krakow. “Krakow is a cracking party,” people would say. Hostels here exist to get travelers inebriated. Pub crawls with free vodka shots and cheap, cheap drinks occur every night. My hostel definitely tried hard to get everyone drunk. But then again, so do all the other hostels here.

Everyone comes to Krakow to party. They hear about it, they expect it, and they are ready for it. On my pub crawl, there were even baby boomer couples shooting down vodka. (I actually think that is really cool. Not because they are drinking heavily, but because they haven’t let age slow them down and aren’t afraid to hang out with the twenty-something travelers.)

When you combine all three of those things (especially drinking because young travelers and students love drinking), it’s easy to see why everyone travels around Europe raving madly about Krakow.

But a party city doesn’t make a great city. While Krakow has many wonderful features in its own right, I was incredibly underwhelmed. I try to remain objective when I travel, especially when I know I am going to write about a place. I try to take cities for what they are, not what people say they are. Expectations can often lead to disappointment. I may get twinkle-eyed when I think about Paris, but let’s be honest – it’s expensive, overpriced, and the locals can be kind of rude. Bangkok? It’s my second home but as my friends rightly pointed out on their recent visit, it smells and is highly polluted and chaotic.

I don’t want to get wrapped up in the hype of a place. And there is some serious hype revolving around Krakow.

If someone asked me to go to Krakow, I would certainly go back. And I would suggest that anyone reading this blog post go there and enjoy the city. You will have a wonderful time seeing the sights and absorbing the history of the place.

But I’m not going to scream from a mountaintop about it.

And so this visit was like visiting Vienna for the first time. While my previous visits gave me a brief glimpse into day-to-day life in Vienna (which isn’t bad in itself), I walked away from those visits never really feeling like I knew anything about the city. I couldn’t tell you anything about its history, what to see, or what to do other than what I knew beforehand and I had no concept of the city’s layout.

This visit changed all that. This time around, I wandered around the historical core of Vienna. I visited various attractions. I paid attention on the subway to learn where all the stops were. In effect, I discovered the city for the first time.

I remember when I was going to Vienna the first time. People told me that, because I love Prague, I would also fall in love with Vienna. But when I got there, I remember being incredibly disappointed. The city was nothing like Prague. It wasn’t as fun, it wasn’t as beautiful, and it wasn’t as charming. It wasn’t a bad city. It just didn’t blow me away.

Yet after this visit, I see Vienna in a bit of a new light. Vienna Tourism connected me with one of their local tour guides, who led me on a walking tour one afternoon. I think it was this walking tour that helped change my mind about Vienna.

Walking tours are a funny thing. Their content is always dependent on the personality of the guide. Guides tell stories and point out features relating to their interests. And so you think you are going to learn one thing and you end up learning something totally different. My guide liked cafes, art, and design and my “historical” tour leaned less on history and more on art. I never knew Vienna was such a major center of design, fashion, and modern art.

One thing I was fascinated by were all the coffee shops. The real first coffeehouse in Austria opened in Vienna in 1683 after coffee was left by the defeated Ottoman army. A Polish military officer by the name of Jerzy Franciszek Kulczycki opened the first coffee house with the coffee beans he kept from the Turks, and he popularized the custom of adding sugar and milk to the coffee to make it more palpable to European tastes. And, to this day, there seem to be more coffee shops in Vienna than in Seattle.

While I was impressed with the city’s café and design scene, Vienna’s art museums left something to be desired. Taking in many of the city’s museums, I was left extremely disappointed. Don’t get me wrong – the museums are actually really good – if you like modern art. I, however, do not. I lean more towards 17th century Dutch landscapes and impressionism. I left disappointed and wishing modern art didn’t involve so many shovels glued to the wall so I could enjoy it more. (In all fairness, though, the Leopold museum did have some wonderful paintings and portraits.)

Despite the cold and rain during my visit, I spent my days meandering around Vienna, marveling at its architecture, getting lost in its sea of never-ending twists and turns, and sneaking into coffeeshops for warm tea. I visited Sigmund Freud’s home, and learned his daughter was also a shrink and that he analyzed her when she was a child.

I strolled by the river, enjoyed Vienna’s impressive gothic church, and ate my way through the town’s main market. Twice. I visited the old royal chambers and finally learned a great deal of the city’s history.

I’m glad I finally got to really experience and explore Vienna. But, while I like Vienna more than my first visit, I’m still not in love. I don’t think I ever will be. Sure, Vienna has its charms and I can see why some people might love it. But I’m not one of those people. It doesn’t light a fire under me. It doesn’t grab my soul the way other cities do.

Would I go back? Yeah, maybe one day. It’s not a bad place. But with no real pressing reason to return, I doubt my next visit will be any time soon. Vienna didn’t wow me and it doesn’t pull me back. There are some places in the world that are just nice. Not bad but not great either.

And that’s all Vienna is to me. It’s just nice.

When I finally arrived in Hamburg, I wondered if it would be as good as everyone says it is. Even the Germans I had met told me it was a great city.

Well, I can tell you that the rumors and hype are true – Hamburg is pretty wonderful.

I may have only spent a few very quick days in this city, but that was long enough to see that Hamburg is an energetic city with a lot of hustle and bustle. People are on the move and things are happening here. Sitting in the main town square watching people go to and fro made me want to come back here. The energy, the sense of purpose in people’s walk, the calmness of the street cafes amid the bustle alluded to an eclectic and vibrant city.

While I only had a few days in Hamburg (which was not enough time to even scratch the surface), I did manage to find some interesting things worth doing:

Hamburg Harbor – Hamburg is a harbor city and the third largest port in the world. Not surprisingly, Hamburg’s history and growth has been tied to its shipping and transportation industry. Coming down here is the best way to see the huge shipyards, stroll along the waterfront, and have an excellent seafood dinner. You can also take boat trips along the Elbe River. If you take the water taxi, you can travel the same route the private tours take but at a fraction of the price.

The Reeperbahn – Hamburg’s most famous street is the Reeperbahn, which is home to Hamburg’s red light district. The eclectic mix of bars and restaurants along with strip clubs and erotic museums means you’ll be seeing a diverse group of people here. This makes people-watching at night on Reeperbahn interesting to say the least and you’ll find that most of the pub tours include this area.

Hamburg Fish Market – This open-air market, right next to the historic fish auction hall, is open on Sundays between 5 a.m. and 9 a.m., so you will have to get up early to see it. But despite its early hours, it’s still buzzing with activity. Here, you’ll be able to get some amazing regional seafood, do a few taste tests, watch the fishmongers at work and purchase some other types of food for the delicious meal you are going to want to cook later.

Hamburger Kunsthalle – With over 700 years of European art history inside, this is an impressive art museum. It has pieces from medieval altars to modern paintings, and highlights include masterpieces by Rembrandt, Caspar David Friedrich, and Edvard Munch.

Church St. Michaelis – This baroque church is the signature landmark of Hamburg. The church was originally built between 1648 and 1661, but has been destroyed several times since and was rebuilt after being bombed during WWII. The interior was redone in the original elegant baroque style. I would highly advise climbing the tower for good views of the city. Skip the vaults though as they aren’t worth the entrance fee. Simply read the church’s history before the ticket gate.

Alster Arcade - Hamburg is famous for shopping, and the elegant Alster Arcade is one of the fanciest shopping areas around. The historic arcade is inspired by Venetian architecture and lit by wrought iron lamps at night. Most of the shops here are high-end retailers, but the setting is pretty, even if the prices aren’t.

Take a lake cruise – Alster Lake sits in the middle of Hamburg and is where boat tours around the city’s canals begin. Most tours last a few hours and take you around the lake and the canals that criss cross the city. I found the tours informative, but after 2 hours on a boat, I was ready to get off. In the future, I’d opt for the quicker 50 minute tour instead.

Take a walking tour – There are a number of good walking tours in the city. There are a few walking tours lead by New Europe that leave from town hall each day at 11 a.m. and will give you basic information about the city. There are also some quirky walking tours like the red light tour led by an 18th century prostitute that teach you about the history of the area.

Hang out in the Student Area of Schanze – The hip place to be in Hamburg has many of the city’s best restaurants, shops, and bars. It’s one of the major nightlife spots in the city and is also home to some amazing restaurants. I especially love the one dedicated to baked potatoes.

The Hamburg History Museum – This museum was gigantic, and in the 90 minutes I was there, I didn’t even see the whole thing. I would plan to spend at least 2 hours here if you ever go. And you should go, because this museum provides a detailed history of Hamburg, its early inhabitants, and its place in Germany history. I learned a lot, and, as a museum snob, I walked away very impressed.

Planten un Blomen Park – Next to the museum is a park that is beautiful to walk through with lots of little gardens, a stream, fields to relax in, and pretty flowers and is actually part of Hamburg’s largest park called “Plants and Flowers” that goes from St. Pauli street all the way up through the center of the city. It’s a large park and walking from one end to the other can take up a good part of an afternoon. It’s easy to get away from the hustle of the city here and relax for a bit. There’s also a world class Japanese garden here.

I will certainly go back to Hamburg. I owe the city a lot more time, and I promised my Couchsurfing hosts I would go out and see the famous Hamburg nightlife with them. The hype of Hamburg is real and earned. While the city for the most part isn’t as beautiful as other European cities, it is the fun, energetic, diverse, and foodie city people told me it would be.

So I was excited to head to Tallinn, Estonia in the Baltics to see an amazing city free of large tour groups, tacky souvenirs, and overpriced restaurants. I have nothing against tourism, but I like my medieval towns to be empty and quiet. It personally helps me appreciate them more. People have always told me that Tallinn was this quiet, medieval town devoid of the tourist crowds you see in places like Prague or Bruges.

But it wasn’t like that at all.

It’s true that the city is beautiful. Visiting here is like stepping back a few centuries – and they have done a good job of preserving their history and medieval structures. The cobblestone streets are lined with medieval homes and ancient churches. Tiny alleys lead to tinier lanes where you find cloistered yards. The city is still ringed by much of its original stone wall and many guard towers. It’s breathtaking.

But with Tallinn the “European Capital of Culture” this year, part of the Schengen Treaty zone, as well as being a very cheap country, the crowds are here, and here en masse. I saw countless tours with the signature umbrella-carrying guide. I had to jostle my way through the city and could never find a quiet moment, even in one of the churches.

With lots of cheap flights from the UK (and a lot of cheap alcohol in Estonia), you also see lots of stag (bachelor) and hen (bachelorette) nights here. At night, the city can get rowdy as the bars fill with drunk tourists. One of my favorite moments in Tallinn was when I saw an English guy say to his friend, “Hey, it’s only 2 Euros for a pint! Let’s go get drunk!” (It was about 1 p.m.) and these Estonian kids walked by and, in a mocking tone, said to each other, “It’s only 2 Euro, let’s get drunk! F$%$ing English.” I couldn’t help but laugh.

It was this mass tourism that left me with mixed feelings about Tallinn. I’m pulled between hating the touristy aspect of the city and loving the sheer beauty of it. It’s pretty hard to dislike a place that looks like this:

See? Magnificent!

I think I just came at the wrong time of year. I find nothing wrong with touristy places or crowds (I love Paris and I live in New York), but there’s only so many people that can be crammed into such a tiny place like Tallinn before it’s simply too much to handle. It’s annoying trying to jostle through narrow streets while tour groups collide into you.

Moreover, there are a lot of cheesy medieval restaurants, sellers, archery, and tours around. The city has a strong medieval history (the city dates back to the 13th century), and, while it is fascinating, sometimes it feels a little too Disney World.

My favorite time in Tallinn was when I roused myself on a Sunday morning at 7 a.m. to wander the city before the crowds came. Walking around in the crisp morning air, I saw the magic of Tallinn that everyone talked about. The streets where silent, except for the sounds of birds and shops opening. The cobblestone alleys were free of crowds. Little old ladies strolled to church. It was easier to appreciate the city without the crowds. You could just sit and marvel at the architecture in peace as you pictured life here hundreds of years ago. It was during this peaceful walk that this medieval capital radiated history and allure and I saw why everyone would want to come here.

And so this walk caused me to love Tallin a lot more than I previously had. I no longer saw the crowds and mass tourism that had so tainted my vision before.

All in all, Tallinn is a beautiful place – there is no denying it. I still feel it is too touristy for such a small place. I think the best time to visit Tallinn would be off-season, when the crowds are gone. That way, you wouldn’t have to wake up so early just to have the city to yourself. I want to eventually do the whole Baltic region, and, when I do, it will be during the off-season to avoid the horde of summer travelers.

Medieval cities are much better when they are empty and peaceful.

Or maybe I’m just a grumpy guy who hates crowds.

Despite the crowds (and I use that term loosely when comparing to places like Paris or Amsterdam), I liked Brasov as I found the mix between historic and modern very well balanced. The core of the city is this beautiful medieval destination but walk five minutes out in any direction and you start to see modern glass buildings, malls, and wide streets. Moreover, Brasov has a wide variety of food from local Romanian fare to good international food. I also enjoyed the fact that there were a lot of hiking trails where you could escape the chaos of the town center. The city had energy, lots to do, and a close proximity to nature. Throw in some medieval buildings and there’s no way I wouldn’t go back to visit. If you find yourself in Brasov, here’s what I recommend doing:

Free Walking Tour – There is a free walking tour run by some local students. (They also do one in Bucharest too.) It last about 2-3 hours and takes you all over the city. It’s very comprehensive and they provide a good overview of the history of Brasov. It leaves at 6pm from the town square.

The Black Church – The main Gothic style church in the country, this church is “black” because most of it burned down in the Great Fire of 1689. Most of the interior is actually Baroque style now though many parts of the original Gothic work remain. It has also been redone a few other times since that fire. I can’t say it’s the best church I’ve ever seen but it was still interesting to look at considering the wide array of architectural styles inside.

Town Museum – Located in the town hall, this museum features artifacts from the stone age up until the present. The best part of the museum is the detailed timeline of the city at the start of the museum. The museum is mostly artifacts, old furniture, and some weapons and suffers from a common problem most museums in Romania have – poor descriptions. You don’t get a lot of context for what you are looking at. That being said, I would still go back because of all the historical relics.

Hike the Mountain – Offering a beautiful view of the old city and the surrounding area, Tampa mountain is the big mountain you see right next to the city. You can hike up it if you want (it’s not that steep and takes about an hour) or you can take the cable car up. There’s a restaurant on top and you can also hang out by the Hollywood-esque Brasov sign.

Rope Street – The narrowest street in Europe at 1.3 meters (4 ft) wide. Other than being really tiny, there’s nothing really special about the street but it does make for some good photos.

The Schei district – This district located outside the city walls was were the Romanians used to live. Only Saxons were originally allowed to live inside the city walls, forcing the Romanians to live undefended outside. Today, the area is a maze of cobblestone streets with medieval looking homes, quiet streets, a few really posh houses, and no tourists. I ended up wandering around this area “getting lost” for about 3 hours. It was a peaceful alternative to the busy city center and my walk was one of the highlights of my time in the city. I find nothing more peaceful than an aimless walk through a historic area.

The First Romanian School – In the Schei district, you’ll find two points of interest: the first Romanian school and St. Nicholas church, which are both located in the same place. The school is a two room building. One side has a classroom; the other side highlights the first printing press and original books from the 16th and 17th century. The docent gives a good little talk on the history of the school from its in 1499.

Bran Castle - Bran castle is a hugely touristy castle near Brasov. I’m not sure why but people refer to it as “Dracula’s castle” considering he never stayed there and it has nothing to do with him. But hey, it draws the crowds. (They do have 1 room dedicated to his life and legend.) Despite all the people, I really did enjoy the castle. It’s a beautiful medieval fortress and the grounds around the castle are nice too. Try to get there very early in the morning to avoid the maddening crowds.

Rasnov Fortress – Rasnov is the second big attraction in the area, after Bran castle. Inside the citadel, you can find an interesting museum, archery, a tavern. There are also sweeping views of the surrounding countryside as well as of the Hollywood-esque Rasnov sign. (They really like their big signs in this area.) The town itself is a mini version of Brasov and is along the way to Bran castle so it’s convenient to get too. I took the bus to Bran and the on the way back to Brasov, visited Rasnov.

There are a few other activities to do in town. I enjoyed visiting the old historic walls and bastions that still exist. There are also two big towers, the White Tower and the Black Tower, that over look the town. They were old guard towers and provide excellent views of the city. Just don’t pay money to go into them (or any of the other bastions either). They are a huge rip off as there is really nothing inside worth seeing and with the roofs closed off, you don’t even get a better vantage of the city for your photos.

Brasov combined the medieval and modern very well. It had a lot more energy and charm than other places in Romania and unlike most of the other medieval cities I saw in Romania, it didn’t shut down at 11pm. Overall, Brasov was just great. The downside to its greatness is that it becomes the main destination for most tourists coming to Romania. But once outside the main town square, you’ll only share the city with the locals.

Given that I’ve written about the places I dislike, I figured it was finally time to write about the places I love the most. Below are my 9 favorite places in the world. (What makes a place my “favorite?” It’s a place I would actually consider moving to!)

Amsterdam

I can’t say exactly how many times I’ve been to Amsterdam, but it’s in the double digits. And, for a brief time at the end of 2006, I lived there as a professional poker player. (Seriously). The fast-paced life, friendly locals, easy access to the rest of Europe, picturesque canals, and great architecture keep me coming back. In some ways, Amsterdam reminds me of my hometown of Boston, which might be why I love it so much. Either way, I never step foot in Europe without making plans to go there.

Favorite activity: Boating through the canals with friends.

Paris

Ever since I stepped out on the Champs Elysees, I knew Paris was it. I was in love. It had that “je ne sais quoi” that people talked about, and I was unable to ignore its magic. Sure, Paris is large and expensive, and the people can be rude. But what big city isn’t like that? Paris is just too beautiful, vibrant, and filled with great food and history. Being here is like being in a real life romantic comedy, but better.

Favorite activity: Picking up some good food at the market and having a picnic.

Bangkok

I hated Bangkok the first few times I traveled there. It was simply a dirty, polluted city with no redeeming qualities. It wasn’t until I moved there that I fell in love with it. Bangkok, it turns out, is an easy city to live in – there’s lots to do, plenty of events, great bars (Cheap Charlies), wonderful food (nothing beats Thailand street food), and even more wonderful people. Plus, it’s easy to get around. Bangkok showed me that looks can be deceiving, and that there is more to a city than what is on the surface. I loved my time living there.

Favorite activity: Gin and tonics at Cheap Charlies.

Stockholm

I have a strong affinity for all things Scandinavian, and Stockholm is no exception. I’ve been there three times, and am considering moving there next summer to learn Swedish. I think this city is one of the most beautiful I have ever seen. The reds and greens of the buildings have an old world charm that rivals cities like Prague, and, during the fall, the changing leaves only highlight that beauty. Stockholm is also very historic, has a high quality of life, and the Swedes in the city are super friendly and welcoming. I’ve been 3 times already.

Favorite activity: Getting lost in the maze of historic streets.

New York City

I never really liked New York until after I lived in Bangkok and got used to big city life. Now, whenever it is I decide to move back to the United States, I will move to New York City. I lived there last summer and came back every other week between trips around the U.S.  New York City is a place where dreams are made into reality, and there is always something to do, something to see, or a new place to eat.  The city is so multi-cultural that when I feel like I need to travel but I can’t, there’s an ethnic area of the city that will give me my fix. Moreover, it’s constantly stimulating. And, as someone who can’t sit still very well, it’s perfect for me.

Favorite activity: Walking the High Line and cooling off with drinks at The Frying Pan.

Chicago

After NYC, Chicago is my favorite U.S. city. In the summertime, there is just something about Chicago that draws me. This lake-side city seems to come to life after it emerges from its long and cold winter. Along with its lively atmosphere, the food there is delicious and the architecture is second to none. I’ve only been there twice and haven’t seen much of the city, but I like what I have seen. I never get bored of visiting Chicago.

Favorite activity: Cub’s game!

Vancouver

I think this must be one of the most livable cities in the world. I’d live in it, which is my benchmark for whether or not I like a place. In Vancouver, you can go from the city into the mountains in minutes. I think that is really the highlight of the city for me – the fact that I don’t have to go far to be with nature. Moreover, there’s a park so big in the middle of the city, I often feel like I am in the center of a forest. Add in a vibrant food and art scene, and Vancouver is definitely a world-class city.

Favorite Activity: Hanging out on Granville Island or walking around Stanley Park (tie).

Queenstown

Perched in the stunning south island mountains of New Zealand, Queenstown is a place for adventures. There’s bungy jumping, hiking, rafting, zip lining, boating, and tons more. Travelers come here because they want to be outside. Situated on a lake near the Remarkable mountain range, Queenstown is a high-energy resort town. It’s small, prettier than a postcard, and perfect for people who like the outdoors. I would jump on a plane and head back there right now if I could.

Favorite Activity: Hiking in the surrounding mountains.

Perth

Perth, Australia is more like a big town than a city, and I think that’s what I like about it. It’s big enough to have a lot to do, but small enough to feel cozy. I love Perth because of that small town, big city feel, the fact that it is on the water and has great nightlife, that it’s a great jumping-off spot to see the western Australian parks and natural sites, and that it is close to hip Freemantle, which is home to my favorite Australian brewery, Little Creatures. I find it much more personal than other Australian towns.

Favorite activity: Relaxing at the beach, followed by a Sunday Session at “The Cott.”

I’ve been to Copenhagen twice. The first time was just a visit on my way from Sweden to Germany. The second was to experience the city more deeply with some very close friends of mine that I hadn’t seen in years. I walked away from that experience loving the city even more than I did after the first time.

Then again, it is hard not to fall in love with such a clean, beautiful city filled with historic sites and friendly people. (Too bad there isn’t better food; but not everywhere is Italy.)

The thing I enjoyed most about this trip was that I finally got to explore the city in a lot more depth. I didn’t really get a chance to do that last time due to limited time and very, very poor planning. I wasn’t going to let that happen again, and, after a week in the city, I walked away having seen many of the must-sees Copenhagen has to offer:

Christinia – This hippy enclave has been around since the 1970s. During that time, peace-loving hippies took over an abandoned army base and set up a commune there. Over the years, it has become a drug haven, with people coming to hang out and smoke the weed that is very, very openly sold here. In recent years, the government has cracked down on the area and has won a series of legal victories against it. They are in talks to try to save it, but it may not be around much longer. If weed isn’t your thing, come anyway for the cool beer gardens, the people watching, and the wall murals.

Boat Tour – The canals and harbor of Copenhagen are very scenic, and much cleaner than those of Amsterdam. (You can actually see the bottom of the Copenhagen canals.) Take the hour-long boat tour here to learn a bit more about the city. The huge boats leave from Nyhavn, and, while “touristy,” you will find a surprising amount of locals on them drinking a beer on a sunny day.

Tivoli - Tivoli is an amusement park located in the center of the city. It’s not cheap to visit, and the ride tickets cost extra. But this is a popular place to go for families, children, and kids on school holidays. While it may not be the most popular place for everyday travelers, I had a blast here, especially playing bumper cars with my friends.

The Morning Bar – There’s actually more than one morning bar in Copenhagen. “Morning bar” is a term for the late, late (early morning) bars that open after the clubs close. The Danes like to drink and tend to stay out at these bars until about 9 a.m. The most famous is Louise’s.

Nightlife - Copenhagen has a variety of pubs, lounges, and clubs. This city doesn’t start pumping until about 1 a.m. and goes very late (see above morning bars). I would try to spend at least one night out.  

Christiansborg Palace Ruins – Underneath this palace in the middle of the city, you can see the ruins of Bishop Absalon’s fortress, which dates back to 1167. It’s dark and damp down there, giving it a very crypt-like and ancient feel. I was really impressed with the detailed information provided about the fortress and its path to the current palace.

Round tower – Rundetaarn is the oldest functioning observatory in Europe. And through a long, tiring walk to the top, it provides a sweeping view of the old part of Copenhagen.

Church of Our Saviour – Located near Christinia, this church is worth seeing for its giant spiraling bell tower. The interior of the church is basic and features a few interesting paintings, but the winding tower is what makes it worthwhile. It has always been regarded as something of a manhood test to climb up and touch the globe on the summit, nearly 100 meters up in the air.

Hans Christian Anderson Museum – While this is really “made for children” and features Disney-like displays and sets, I really liked this museum. Inside, you get to read all of Anderson’s children’s tales, which were a lot shorter and darker than I had thought. It was quite the eye-opener. Disney lied to me all these years.

Historical Museum – The national history museum has many exhibits relating to Danish history and Viking weapons.  (Skip the Museum of Copenhagen, though. It was awful and didn’t convey much.)

Danish National Gallery – The Danish National Gallery (free entry!) has great art from the likes of Rembrandt, Picasso, and Matisse. There are also a number of paintings by Danish artists from the “Golden Age.”

Little Mermaid – It may be small, but this statue makes for some excellent pictures. And, since it is near a park that is very much worth visiting, there’s no reason not to head over and snap a photo. Watch out for hordes of tourists trying to get into your shot, though.

Kastellet Park – Kastellet used to be a fortress guarding the city, but is now a public park, a cultural-historical monument, and is also used for military purposes. The park has great gardens, trees, and ponds surrounding it. It’s right near the Little Mermaid and is a wonderful place to relax on a warm day.

Also, keep in mind that Copenhagen isn’t a cheap city. The strong kroner makes it a very expensive experience for travelers. Luckily, I stayed with friends for most of my time. But when I didn’t, I paid $30 USD for a 24-bed dorm room!!!! That was one of the cheap dorms in the city, too. I can’t imagine how much a hotel would actually cost.  In terms of saving money, I found buying drinks at the grocery store helped, as well as eating at the hot dog and sausage vendors ($3 USD for a huge condiment and extras-filled hotdog).  Attraction wise, I really suggest you get the Copenhagen city card. Like in Oslo and Stockholm, attractions in Copenhagen can really add up. The cost of the card is only 249 Kroner for the 24-hour card and 479 for the 72-hour card. (A great bargain, as most museums are 70 Kroner to get into and you get free transportation.) 

While I enjoyed Copenhagen my first time, I definitely grew to love it my second. I got to see a lot more of the city, and spending time with my friends showed me a bit of the local life and culture, too. 

Copenhagen is a beautiful, fun city I will definitely return to. In fact, given my love of Norway and Sweden, I think I should just move to Scandinavia and get it over with. I can’t seem to stay away from the place.

Editor’s Note: The city of Copenhagen gave me a 72 VisitCopenhagen card, which I used to see the city’s attractions that I missed from my 2009 visit.

“You’re going to Norway?”

“Yes, for a few weeks.”

“You have to go to Bergen. It’s simply amazing.”

No matter who I mentioned my trip to Norway to, they would talk about seeing Bergen with as much excitement as seeing the beautiful Norwegian fjords. I didn’t know what to expect of Bergen, but since everyone seemed to praise it, my expectations for excellence were pretty high.

And when I exited the train station and walked to my hotel, I could immediately see why: Bergen is beautiful.

A compact city nestled between two mountains, Bergen’s center is filled with historical brick and wooden buildings, winding cobblestone streets, a huge central park, Gothic churches, and little squares. In the harbor, there is a fish market where you can eat some of the best fish in the country.

Sadly, I only had two days in Bergen. With so much to do in the town, I had little chance to explore the wider area and the beautiful fjords outside the city. However, I managed to fill my two days with some amazing sites in Bergen. My top highlights were:

The Fish Market – Bergen’s fish market is a culinary treat. Located right downtown on the wharf, it’s easy to visit. There are vendors there all day, though you’ll find more in the morning. By Norwegian standards, the fish is cheap, but it’s still expensive when you convert into USD.  Take advantage of the vendors, though, who are more than happy to give free samples out if you just want a taste. Make sure you try the salmon and caviar. (I’d skip the herring caviar though. It wasn’t that good. Very, very salty.)

Bryggen – Bryggen (“wharf” in Norwegian) is one of the oldest parts of Bergen and consists of beautiful 14th-century Hanseatic buildings, including some of the few remaining wooden structures here. There are a lot of narrow alleys and pathways to wander around. Most of the buildings here are cheesy tourist shops but much of the woodwork is original and it’s pretty amazing to look at. There is also a museum that will tell you about the lives of 14th-century merchants.

Rosenkrantz Tower – Located in the fortress at the harbor, this tower dates from the 1270s. The tower has been extended several times, with the keep expanded under Erik Rosenkrantz, who was governor during in the 1500s. The current exhibit is really well done, and the top floor contains a lot of history about the castle and King Hakon. You can go outside on the top floor for good views of the city.

Hakon’s Hall – This royal residence and banqueting hall was built by King Håkon Håkonsson sometime between 1247 and 1261. It’s located in the same fortress as Rosenkrantz Tower, and is not really used any more except for on special occasions. Most of the hall was destroyed in World War II, but the original walls still stand. It’s impressive to check out.

Bergenhus Fortress Museum – The fortress museum is not a museum about the fortress. Instead, its exhibits tended to focus on women in Norway and the Bergen resistance to the Nazis. The women exhibition might be good, but it’s all in Norwegian, so I don’t know. But the Nazi resistance exhibit was in English, very detailed, and contains lots of pictures. The history buff in me loved it. I learned a lot.

Art Museums – Near the city center’s park (which is also amazing), there are three art museums worth visiting if you are into modern and contemporary art. The museums are small and won’t blow your mind. However, they contain art by famous Norwegians as well as a slant towards more modern art.

Old Bergen Museum – This is an open-air museum with more than 40 wooden houses representing Bergen architecture during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The area is open all year round and free to visit. However, the guided tours are not. It’s not in the city center but an easy bus ride away.

Fløibanen – Fløibanen is a train that takes you up a mountain near the city center where you can get great sweeping views of the city, the harbor, and fjords. There’s a restaurant on top here to eat at, but it’s not budget friendly. However, I spent a lot of time up here just marveling at the city and fjords.

Because I only had two days in Bergen, I didn’t get to see much of the surrounding fjord area. However, if you do spend a few extra days here, I would recommend taking trips out into the mountains, booking a boat cruise on the fjord, or visiting some of the old historic manors in the countryside.

A word of warning: Bergen is also famous for getting 270 days of rain per year, and not one of the 90 days of sun occurred while I was there. However, even through the rain and clouds, I really loved Bergen. I tried to resist jumping on the “Bergen is so amazing” bandwagon, but, with a city so pretty, it was hard to do. Bergen is a fun city with a lot of history and great food. Try as I might, I have fallen in with the “Bergen is awesome” crowd. I think that, next to Stockholm, Bergen is my favorite Scandinavian city. And that’s saying a lot.

Editor’s Note: Tourism Norway provided me with free accommodation and a tourist card to get into attractions for free while I was there.

Regardless, I came to Quito without high expectations. And in the end, I loved this city. It was phenomenal.  One day I was at Ejido park and I came across an Ecuadorian version of “The Three Stooges” (old American slapstick comedy group). My Spanish isn’t good enough to understand what they were saying but their slapstick was funny. I sat watching them for a while. Throughout town, I discovered amazing food from delicious outdoor stalls, to food markets, to good western food. Any city with good food is a city I love.

Despite the altitude, I walked and walked around the city, though sometimes my lungs felt like they were going to explode. I enjoyed the mix of old world Spanish architecture and modern buildings. Moreover, the city was a lot cleaner than I expected. After spending considerable time this year in Central America, it was nice to visit a city that didn’t have trash littered everywhere! If you are looking for things to do in Quito, I suggest the following activities:

El Panecillo- “The bread roll” or el Panecillo is a hill overlooking the city. It’s famous for its views and used to contain a temple before the Spanish arrived. On the hill is the statue of the Virgin Mary that was constructed in 1976 and is 41 meters tall.

Architecture- Quito is home to a number of colonial and excellently preserved houses.  The two best can be found on an alley called La Ronda. The first is Casa de Benalcázar, one of the early founders of the city, and Casa de Sucre where Field Marshall José de Antonio de Sucre, a leader in Latin American independence, lived.

The Equator- Given the country name, it shouldn’t be surprising that the equator is in the country. It’s located near Quito and you can visit the real and fake one. The fake one is a 30 meter tall monument, constructed between the years of 1979 and 1982 to mark the point where the equator passes. However, when they got GPS and checked it, it turns out they were off. Now you can visit a mini-museum paying homage to indigenous Ecuadorian culture that has the REAL equator in it. They have a few fun science experiments there too.

Plaza de San Francisco- Though you’ll see many churches in the city, San Francisco is one of the oldest and prettiest. The city’s oldest building, its construction began in 1534 and it is baroque in its design. There is a huge plaza outside the church that is good for people watching.

Cotopaxi- Approximately two hours south of Quito is the world’s highest active volcano (19, 348 feet). It is a brilliant location for outdoor activities such as mountain climbing, hiking, horseback riding and even camping.

Parque Metropolitano-  Parque Metropolitano is a very good park and its height provides the best views of the city.  You can get a lot of good photos from here and the surrounding neighborhood is quite nice. I recommend asking where the entrance is before you walk there or you’ll find yourself (maybe like me) using the tourist map only to find out the “entrances” are all locked but the main one.

The Old Town- Most visitors concentrate their time in Old Town, which is a UNESCO site. Here you’ll find the city laid out according to Spanish planning requirements, with the central plaza at the heart. The plaza features the Palacio de Gobierno, the Cathedral, and the Palacio Presidencial. You will also find Independence Square here.

Museo del Banco Central-The Central Bank Museum has a good collection of artifacts from all of Ecuador’s regions and cultures. There are many pre-Incan artifacts too. I wouldn’t have thought a bank museum would have such things but this one does and it’s not that expensive to get into.

La Mariscal- This is where all the expats and tourists seemed to be. I couldn’t walk 5 feet without a Texas BBQ or Irish Pub popping up. This neighborhood was trendy, filled with bars and posh restaurants.  It seemed like the place to be during the night time with all the bars and clubs but during the day it was simply filled with tourists eating overpriced food. The houses in the area are nice and colorful though.

Quito was a lot different than I thought it would be. I expected a grimy South American city but instead found a city rich in culture, architecture, and filled with good food and locals.  I met a guy who worked for the American embassy while there. Him and his girlfriend had nothing nice to say about Quito. To them, it was a dangerous place where people try to cheat you.  I inquired what he did for the embassy and he said he dealt with all the emergency calls American tourists place. That experience probably colored his perception of the city since he only hears the bad stories. I was glad I met him at the end of my trip. His slanted view might have made me more guarded while I was there. I found all the locals I interacted with very friendly.

In the end, I loved Quito. There’s a lot to do here, there’s plenty of history, a good night life, and friendly locals. And what more could you ask for from a city? I would definitely like to go back there. If you make your way to Quito, spend some extra time here to enjoy the city. Don’t just use it as a place to fly to the Galapagos Islands from.

My days were spent relaxing in the mountains, hiking, visiting coffee plantations, and catching up on my work. They were quite days. They were days that I wish would have lasted longer. One night while we were in town, the power went out. Stepping outside to see if it was just our area, we found the city black. Instead of looking around, I looked up and I saw a sky filled with the glow of stars unseen to me for years, having been lost to the glow of all the cities I have visited or lived in. I could see the milky way clearly. I could see constellations whose name I never learned. (I brought out my iPhone App to identify them. If you don’t have it, get the Star Walk app. I’ve learned so much from it.) Even after the power went on, there were still plenty of stars to see and I stayed out longer, gazing at stars I too often don’t even notice.

Boquete is surrounded by lots of mountains that allow for some great day hikes. Trails are easily mapped and I encourage you to just set off on your own. You never know what you might find. On the way to the San Ramon waterfall, we found the best strawberry ice cream place called “The Power of Fruit.” (I Highly recommend it!) Besides just wandering trails, here are four activities I recommend you do before you leave the city:

Mi Jardín Es Su Jardín. This garden is a private garden made for everyone. There’s a lot of plants here and a funky design. There’s an impressive view of the valley and surrounding mountains, which you can look at through the observation tower. The garden is free to enter.

Take a Coffee Plantation Tour. Most of the coffee in Panama is grown here and throughout the mountains there are tons of coffee plantations. Take a tour of one and see how coffee is grown and processed. A lot of work goes into your cup of joe! Most tours are half day and cost around $25 USD. They are actually pretty interesting and you get a lot of free coffee!

Hike the Sendero Los Quetzales Trail. This 13 km trail begins about 10km out of town and ends in Cerro Punta. If you go from Boquete, you go uphill. From Cerro Punta, downhill. However, some people think the uphill hike is actually easier than hiking downhill since the downhill part is very hard on your knees. The trail takes a whole day to walk so it’s best to leave early in the morning. While you won’t see a lot of animals here, you’ll find lots of birds and great views and waterfalls along the path.

Climb Volcán Barú This volcano is one of the biggest attractions for travelers here. You hike up to the summit of the dormant volcano for great views of the area, the caldera, and good hiking. While it is possible to do it in a very long day hike, most people hike this volcano over two days. That way you can spend the night at the top and witness the spectacular sunrise in the morning. You can hike this by yourself or go on an overnight tour with a guide for $50 USD.

To me the best part of the city was the food. It was the only place in Panama where I actually enjoyed eating. It was the only place I found where the local food had flavor. There was a lunch cafeteria near the town square that had the best cheap food in Panama. There is also a lot of good Western food here, which should be no surprise considering the number of expats.

My friends and I found an article telling us about some of the best restaurants in town and we decided to try them all. By far, the best was “The Rock.” The food here…ohh, the food…it was simply superb. The homemade bread had a thick crust and beautiful texture. I had duck as an appetizer and the meat was very moist. My friend’s steak had flavors I never knew existed. And my main dish, their signature dish of pork ribs, fell off the bone so well that it makes Texas BBQ look amateurish. It was a steal too. For three of us and two bottles of wine, we spent $100 USD. I still dream of that place. If you are ever in Boquete, you must try this restaurant.

Boquete was my favorite place in Panama and I would love to go back. I can see why so many Americans move down there. Life in the mountains is pretty good. Even if the western influence wasn’t here, I’d love to live a nice little quiet life in the foothills of the jungle surrounded by coffee plantations. Come here, hike the mountains, cool off in the rivers, and relax with the stars at night.