The first city on my list is London.  I came here for a 10 day trip for a travel conference and it would make for the perfect first example. London is notorious for being one of the most expensive places in the world to visit. No one goes to London under the assumption that they aren’t going to spend a lot of money.

And that’s why London is a perfect first place to do this. Because, if you can travel hack London, you can travel hack anywhere.

Using my own travel hacking tips, 10 days in London only cost me 481.21 GBP or $710 USD. That works out to be roughly $70 USD per day. And that’s not just my day-to-day expenses. That includes EVERYTHING – my flight to London, my hotel, transportation, food, drinking, and attractions.

Think about that for a second: I had a 10-day vacation in London for $700 USD that included airfare. When was the last time you went to Europe for that little money? When was the last time any real big international trip cost that kind of money?

How Did I Do It?

Before I explain how I did it, I want to take a second to explain some of the ground rules I laid out for myself. I didn’t backpack London. My goal was to show the budget travelers of the world – the two-week holiday makers – that you can do London on the cheap without being a backpacker. That saving money isn’t all dorm rooms, Couchsurfing, and eating pasta.

So, visiting London as a budget traveler, I made three rules:

I wouldn’t stay in hostels. I wanted to stay in nice accommodation to prove that even a hotel stay can be cheap.

I had to eat a few nice meals. When you go on holiday, you want to eat nice food, so I agreed that I would have at least 2 really nice meals in London.

I couldn’t say “no” because it was expensive. Many backpackers skip sightseeing because of the cost but I wanted to do all the normal sightseeing activities regular tourists do.  You don’t go on a short vacation to not sightsee right?

With these ground rules in place, I set off to do London as your average, everyday traveler:

Flight: I used my American Airlines frequent flier miles to pay for my flight. A round-trip ticket from Boston to London cost me 60,000 miles, plus a service charge of $165.10 in taxes and fees.

The miles I used were “anytime miles,” but American Airlines also offers “OffPeak Miles” (off-season really), and you can actually fly to London for as little as 40,000 miles round-trip.

How do I get so many miles?
I’m a frequent flier, so I can generate a lot of miles per year. I normally fly about 40,000 to 50,000 miles per year, which, compared to most travel writers, is pretty low. But I’ve written extensively on how to get miles for free. I sign up for bonus credit cards, sign up for deals, use preferred merchants, and sign up for every contest that gives extra miles. All told, I have accumulated over 400,000 frequent flier miles with American Airlines alone through these methods.

While I have written many blog posts on how to get free miles, here’s a quick summary of the best methods:

Sign up for a branded airline credit card: Whether you love Delta, fly United and the Star Alliance, all U.S. carriers have a branded travel credit card that gives you 25,000-30,000 points when you sign up and make one purchase. That’s a free economy ticket right there. Airline credit cards are the best way to kick start your mileage balance. Often times they offer huge sign up bonuses. For awhile, American Airlines gave you 75,000 miles when you got their branded credit card. Virgin Atlantic has offered 50,000. United has done 40,000. The quickest and best way to gain a lot of free miles is to get one of these travel credit cards.

Watch out for special promotions: I sign up for all airline mailing lists. I always watch out for special 2-for-1 mile deals. Or when they have special card offers to earn extra miles. American Airlines just gave me 1,000 miles for watching a demo on their new shopping toolbar. I once got 5,000 miles for joining Netflix. Often times you get miles for filling out surveys or they will give you a 100% bonus on purchasing miles. Promotions help bit time and airlines seem to always be offering them. Utilizing promotions over the course of a few months can yield big results.

Sign up for a non-airline credit card: Sign up for a non-airline credit card like a Starwood American Express card and you can get 10,000 sign-up points. When you convert 20,000 points into miles, you get a 5,000-mile bonus. I highly recommend signing up for this card too but signing up for any “points” card like the AMEX travel card or a Capital One card will do. Afterwards, you can transfer your sign-up bonus points to the airline you use and redeem them for flights.

For all of these methods, the bonus points take about 6-8 weeks to post from the time you sign up for a credit card. If you want, sign up for my free newsletter — I always post the best mile bonuses on it.  Or read Boarding Area, which features all mileage bonuses big and small.

Note: Readers of my blog know I’ve been in Europe for long time. However, I also went home to Boston in September on a round trip flight from London. I’m using that flight as the basis for this article.

Accommodation: I had hoped that by the time I went to London, my Marriott or Starwood points would credit to my account. Marriott is offering a new card with Chase that got me 70,000 points plus 1 free stay for signing up and after the first use. I jumped on this deal but the points took too long to place into my account. On the plus side, I now have 70,000 points and a free night at the Marriott for future use.

A few months ago, Starwood hotels offered a 60,000 points bonus. I signed up but forgot to use the card quickly enough and by the time I remembered, the point transfer took too long.

However, my points didn’t get credited in time, so I used more American Airlines miles for this. I used 68,000 points plus $25 USD for 5 nights accommodation in a 4 star hotel.  I stayed in a hotel near Hyde Park, a very well-to-do neighborhood in London.

Now, while you can use airline miles for vacations and hotels, you never get as good of a point conversion as you do with flights. Five nights using hotel points would have cost me just 50,000 points.  The point here, though, is that by signing up for a branded hotel card, you can use those points to get free hotel stays for your next vacation.  Or you can use the bonuses from an airline. Either way, getting free hotel rooms isn’t that hard.

For the other 4 nights I was London, I used Wimdu, an apartment rental company. While I normally like hostels, I wanted some peace and quiet while in London as well as a kitchen. The room cost 150 GBP ($238 USD) for 4 nights.

Regarding all these credit cards: While you may get a small short term ding opening lots of credit cards in a short time, over the long term your credit will be fine so long as you pay off all your cards at the end of the month. Even after opening all these credit cars, I still have a score about 800.

Attractions: London is great for sightseeing because so much is free here. It makes sightseeing on a budget really easy. The best museums – British Library, British Museum, National Gallery, Natural History Museum, Museum of London (just to name a few) – are all free. Hyde Park? Free. Kensington Gardens? Free. It’s easy to fill a few days with sightseeing in London without ever spending a penny.

But sadly, not everything is free. For attractions that weren’t free, I used the London Pass. This tourist card cost me 54 GBP ($86 USD) for two days of sightseeing. It covers over 32 destinations and offers free public transportation. You can get a pass for up to 6 days (87 GBP). There are hundreds upon hundreds of dollars in savings with this pass. However, I didn’t have much time nor the desire to see all 32 spots.  I was able to see:

Westminster Abbey
Tower of London
St. Paul’s Cathedral
Ben Franklin House
Britain at War Museum
Shakespeare’s Globe Museum
London Tombs

Without this pass, the same attractions would have cost me 104.55 GBP. I saved 50% by using the London Pass and I didn’t even use it for everything it offers. This is why in so many of my posts about various cities I always stress getting a city pass if you plan to do a lot of museums and tours. You can save a lot of money by doing so. It’s one of the best budget travel tips out there and is all too often overlooked.

Food: I didn’t want to be the typical backpacker and eat kebabs and pasta for every meal. But at the same time, I know locals don’t eat out 100% of the time, either, and a great way to save money is to cook, which is part of the reason I got a place with a kitchen for my last 4 nights. I wanted to mix eating out with cooking a few meals.  During my 10 days in London, I spent 103.80 GBP ($165 USD) on food, which broke down the following ways:

I spent 9.11 GBP on groceries, including bread, sandwich meat, vegetables, and pasta. This was enough for 3 dinners and 3 lunches.

I spent 2.20 on water bottles, which I refilled over the course of my trip.

My hotels and serviced apartment provided breakfast, though I did go out for McDonald’s one morning. I just love those hash browns.

The rest was spent on dining out. I got pizza one day, went out for good Thai for one dinner, had great Indian one night, ate typical fish and chips the next, and had a few Starbucks green teas, and tons of kebabs. They are everywhere in London. According to my friends, you are a true Londoner if you are dining on kebabs, especially if it’s after a night out.

As I said, I didn’t want to skimp on meals. I ate how I wanted to eat, when I wanted to eat. I did look for deals though as any good budget traveler knows that good food doesn’t have to be expensive.  In London, I found the best way to eat out on a budget was to look for lunch specials. Most restaurants I came across had lunch specials and many pizza places offered a “buy one, get one free” deal on takeaway.

Another great way to save money is to get the Taste Card. This diner’s club card offers 50% discounts on thousands of restaurants as well as two for one specials. It can really pay off, especially on those nice meals you’ll want to have. You can only live on fish and chips for so long.

Transportation: My London Pass covered public transportation for the two days it was valid. And since cabs in London are notoriously expensive even by London standards, I refrained from taking them.

For transportation to Heathrow airport, I took the Heathrow express to get into the city (18.50 GBP) and the London Underground to get out (5 GBP). Around the city, I loaded my oyster card (metro card) for unlimited use within Zones 1-3 for 7 days at a cost of 32.20 GBP. (Everything you really need to see is mostly in Zone 1, but my conference was in Zone 3, so I had get out there.)

How Much Would This Trip Regularly Cost?

Had I fallen into the trap that most people do of booking a “normal vacation,” in London, this trip would have cost me three times as much.

A flight to London from Boston right now is currently running around $650 USD.

Currently, the average price of a decently rated 3-4 star hotel in central London is 70 to 100 ($111 to 158 USD) GBP per night. For my 9 night trip, that adds up to around $1,000 USD as I would have gone with the cheapest.

Had I refrained from cooking, I probably would have added about another 70 GBP ($111 USD) on dining out knowing my eating habits.

If you add up all of that plus my transport and food, I would have spent around $2,000 USD. By traveling hacking and cleverly using reward points, I spent 10 days in London for less than the current price of a flight to London, saving myself $1,300 USD! Think about that. I saved 66% off the cost of a normal vacation, and I didn’t skimp on anything. I just traveled smart, used reward systems, and everyday frugality to my advantage. I stayed in nice places, dined out well, and saw all the attractions I wanted. I didn’t sacrifice comfort.

One the most important points I wanted to get across with this trip was to show people that cheap travel doesn’t mean bad travel. I wanted to take a vacation to London that my parents or friends – people who wouldn’t be caught dead sleeping in 15 bed dorms to save money – could take. I wanted to travel cheaply without sacrificing comfort.

And I did just that. “Travel Hacking” might not be the best phrase in the world, but the principles behind it are simple and easy. Travel doesn’t have to be expensive. Repeat that. Travel doesn’t have to be expensive. By investing just a little extra time into planning my trip, I was able to have a wonderful trip for around the cost of the going rate for a flight to London. You don’t need to spend thousands traveling. A vacation doesn’t need to cost an arm and a leg and the next time you are inclined to think so, just remember that yes, it is possible to travel any cheap and anyone can do it.

Note: One thing that is missing from this article is my conference costs. Most people don’t visit London for travel conferences, so I didn’t add any costs related to that conference to this post.

The Bulldog (Amsterdam, The Netherlands)

Though The Flying Pig is one of my favorite hostels in the world, a great Amsterdam alternative is The Bulldog. It’s located right in the heart of the red light district, has a great bar, friendly staff, and the oldest coffeeshop in the city. While I thought the lack of a common area detracted from the overall sociability of the hostel, the pub that takes its place offers great meals and cheap drinks. The dorm rooms are very nice and contain their own showers.

Hostel Mostel (Bulgaria)

This hostel has locations in three cities in Bulgaria (Sofia, Plovdiv, and Veliko Tarnovo), and they all follow the same principles: comfy beds, free breakfast, free dinner, free beer, fee shots, a pool table, and free fast wi-fi. I honestly haven’t ever seen a hostel offer so much free stuff to travelers. And it’s only 8 Euros per night Usually everyone stays at all the Hostel Mostel locations once since they are just so great, so you run into the same people frequently. I found them booked out most of the times I tried to stay there last minute, so I’d book in advance if you want to stay here. This hostel was my favorite during this 6 month trip through Europe.

Kismet Dao (Brasov, Romania)

Probably the best hostel in Romania, this hostel had a great backyard to relax in, a fairly decent breakfast (Frosted Flakes!), a large and clean kitchen, comfy rooms, and a huge common area. I didn’t like the showers as there wasn’t a lot of privacy (think gym style) but overall, I found this to be a social place, have a good location, and check all the right boxes on meeting a traveler’s needs.

The Yellow (Rome, Italy)

The Yellow is just a fun hostel. There’s no common area, so everyone just hangs out in the bar downstairs. People come here to socialize and party. It’s a loud hostel in that respect, but since the party is separated from the main area, you don’t really hear much in the rooms. They have great security, great water pressure in the showers, comfy beds, and decent enough wi-fi. They also run walking tours throughout Rome.

Tallinn Backpackers (Tallinn, Estonia)

This hostel is for those that want to come to Tallinn and party, which I didn’t really do while I was there. But I still found the hostel to be great because the beds were comfortable and the staff really put an emphasis on getting the guests get to know each other and interact. They do a nightly pub crawl, and before then everyone gets together in the large common area (which they shut down at 11 p.m. so people who don’t want to go out can get some sleep).

Euphoria Hostel (Tallinn, Estonia)

Because I like to book things last-minute, I had to switch hostels a lot during my stay in Tallinn. While Tallinn Backpackers is a great place for the party scene, Euphoria is a great place for relaxing. Owned by some hippies, this place has a very commune-like feel to it. There is a lot of colorful art on the walls, bean bag chairs, soft music, and a quiet atmosphere. It was a good change from Tallinn Backpackers. Plus, I really enjoyed the fact that the owner’s band plays a free concert every week.

Central Station (Kiev, Ukraine)

Not so much a hostel as a series of apartments in the same building, Central Station is a true hostel’s hostel. It’s got gigantic dorm rooms, few showers, a tiny kitchen, and a little common area. It’s mostly the spirit of the place that makes it cool – activities every night, really friendly staff, and that tiny space which forces everyone to socialize and meet each other, not just sit behind their computers.

Greg and Tom’s Party Hostel (Krakow, Poland)

A hostel with a glowing recommendation, I came here on the advice of a friend. What I liked about this hostel was that on the one hand there is a strong focus on taking full advantage of Krakow’s lively nightlife. However, on the other, they have two separate buildings so if you want quiet at night, you can stay in the non-party building. They offer free breakfast, they cook you a meal every night (salad, potatoes, pasta or meat), they have Nintendo Wii and Playstation, and large movie collection. But what I loved the most was the massaging rain showers. It was the best shower I took in months.

Honorable mention: Wombats (Vienna, Austria), Hostel Blues (Bratislava, Slovakia)

Now that I’m done with my trip through Europe, I’m not sure when or if I’ll ever swing through as such an ardent backpacker again. But as I continue to explore Europe and stay in hostels, I’ll keep adding to this list.

And I never wished for that more than when I was in Budapest a few weeks ago. When I came to Budapest last year, no one ever mentioned “ruin bars” to me. This year, though, everyone kept asking Wayne, our hostel’s go-to party organizer and tour guide, to be taken to them. “What the heck is everyone talking about?” I wondered.

Turns out they were talking about the coolest and hippest nightlife I’ve come across in Europe.

Ruin bars are all the rage in Budapest and have been around for 10 years since the founding of Szimpla Kert, the mecca of all ruin bars. These bars are built in Budapest’s old District VII neighborhood (the old Jewish quarter) in the ruins (hence the name) of abandoned buildings, stores, or lots. This neighborhood was left to decay after World War II so it was a perfect place to develop an underground bar scene. (Not so underground anymore though.)

From outside, these bars look like normal homes. They don’t have large signs pointing the way, you don’t hear any loud noise, and there’s no line of people waiting to get in. However, once you walk in and enter the inner courtyard, you find yourself in the middle of a hip, artsy, and funky bar that is bustling with crowds talking, dancing, and merrily enjoying the laid-back atmosphere. Large bouncers inside, along with posted signs, ensure that people are quiet on their way out so as to not disturb the neighbors.

As I spent most of my nights in Budapest at these bars, I wished (briefly) that some editor had sent me on assignment years ago to explore and write about them. I’ve been coming to Europe for 5 years, and somehow I’m only now hearing about these places.

Each of these ruin bars has its own personality, but they all follow a few basic principles: find an old abandoned place, rent it out (maybe?), set up a bar, fill it with flea market furniture, have a few artists come in to leave their mark on the walls and ceiling, add in some weird antiques, serve alcohol, and watch people flock in. Since all these bars are in abandoned buildings, they open, close, and move frequently depending on whether the neighbors find out, the patrons get too loud, or an investor comes and buys the property to renovate it. This gives the whole concept an edge of excitement as you never know when these places will come and go.

When you are in these bars, you feel like you are drinking at your local thrift store. None of the furniture matches. It’s all old. It’s eclectic. It feels like they just ransacked your grandmother’s house. The ceilings are all designed differently. For example, Instant has a room where the furniture is on the ceiling and Fogashaz has bikes hanging from its ceiling. The places haven’t been repaired or fixed up. There are still holes in the walls and pipes can be seen everywhere.

But it all adds to the “underground” feeling each ruin bar has. If these places hadn’t been pointed out to me, I never would have found them.

But that’s the way it’s supposed to be.

Moreover, I found starting up a conversation in a ruin bar relatively easy. I think the relaxed environment makes it much easier to start a conversation with a stranger than in a normal bar. People seemed to have their guard up less. I met interesting locals who were more than happy to talk about life in Budapest, travel, and why they are happy they aren’t on the Euro.

Some of the best ruin bars are:

Szimpla Kert

This was the original ruin bar, opening in 2001 and starting this trend that now sweeps through Budapest. It’s one of the biggest ruin bars and still one of the most popular. Here you’ll find a large open courtyard, a top floor filled with eclectic furniture, cocktail bars, music, and even an old stripped down Trabant, a communist car you can have a drink in. They also sell pizza, which, after a few drinks, makes for the perfect walking home snack.

Instant

Instant is located in an entire apartment building. It’s one of the more club-like ruin bars. In Instant, you can sit in what were once individual apartments and relax on furniture that looks like it was found on the street. They have knocked down many of the walls so they can connect the apartments and have space for the DJs and dancing. Given its popularity and the fact that it is more “clubby,” drinks here are a little more expensive than in other ruin bars. But the vibe is still good.

Fogashaz

Fogasház only opened last summer. It’s smaller, lower-key, and less touristy than popular Instant and Szimpla Kert. This bar has bicycles and glasses hanging from the ceiling, and is far more artsy than the other ruin bars around. Small tables dot the inner courtyard and you don’t have loud music drowning out the conversation. They often host art exhibits here. They also have a ping pong table.

Doboz

I’m not entirely sure if this place fits into the ruin bar culture. It was much fancier and trendier than the other bars I visited. It was like being in a “real” bar. However, I was taken there as part of a ruin bar tour, and, regardless, I love this place. You walk into the courtyard and are greeted by a tree with a red-eyed robot attached to it. It looks like a Transformer is about to attack you. There are two main rooms – one red, the other blue. They play a lot of dance music and this place fills up towards the end of the night.

Corvin Teto

Located on top of a supermarket, this ruin bar features an elevator ride where you can drink on your way to the roof. Corvin Teto is popular due to its huge rooftop terrace where you can get an expansive view of the hills of Buda and the buildings of Pest. This is also another dance heavy ruin bar, specializing in electronic music. I’d come up here for a drink during sunset and then move on elsewhere.

Grandio

Grandio is a ruin bar and hostel in one. It’s famous for its outdoor, tree filled courtyard but is mostly filled with travelers and people on bar crawls due to the fact that is also a hostel. This is a good place to start your night and meet other travelers. However, during the day you can find locals relaxing here with a drink in the garden.

Budapest may sell itself on history and thermal baths, but the ruin bars are by far the most unique thing about this city. I wish I had known about them ages ago, or at least during my trip to Budapest last year. (Maybe there was a reason Tourism Budapest neglected to tell me about them? Hmmmmmm)

Even if you don’t drink, come spend time at these ruin bars. They are a funky way to see a popular and totally unique aspect of life in Budapest. It’s easy to chat up the locals here and, at the very least, it’s like coming to an alternative art show.

The most popular dog name in Poland is Burek, which means “brownish-grey color.”

Among the European Union, people of Poland marry the youngest.

Seventeen Nobel Prize winners, including four peace prize winners and five in literature, were born in Poland.

Astronomer Nicholas Copernicus, the first person to theorize that the Earth is not the center of the universe, was Polish.

Saint John’s Kupala is a holiday that predates Christianity and has people jumping over fires.

Marzanna is the Slavic goddess of winter, death, and nightmares. At the end of winter, Poles make straw dolls of her and decorate them with ribbons. When the snow starts to melt, they throw the dolls into the river, symbolically “killing winter” and thus welcoming spring.

During the 14th through 16th century, the Polish empire spread over most of Central and Eastern Europe.

In Poland, bananas are peeled from the blossom end.

Poland was a communist country from 1945 to 1989.

Over 50% of the land in Poland is dedicated to farming.

There were over 3 million Jews in Poland before World War II. After the war, that number dropped to 300,000.

Poland is home to Auschwitz, the most famous of the Nazi death camps. It is located outside Krakow.

Almost 90% of the population is Roman Catholic.

Pope John Paul II was Polish.

The biggest section of any bookstore here is on books about Pope John Paul II.

Gingerbread is a traditional Polish dessert.

In Poland, a person’s name day is considered more important than their birthday an important holiday. (This is actually quite common in northern Europe.) (Editor’s Note: Due to conflicting reports about which holiday is more important, I’m changing the wording to just simply “important.”)

When movies are dubbed for Polish TV, one man reads all the parts, even those of women and children.

Students make up twenty percent of the population of Krakow.

There is a doctor on board every ambulance.

Warsaw is the capital city of Poland.

Rysy, in the Tatra Mountains, is the highest point in Poland at 2,499 meters.

The White Tailed Eagle is the national symbol of Poland.

The highest mountain in Australia, Mount Kosciuszko, was named after Polish General Tadeusz Kosciuszko (1746-1817), who fought against the Russian Empire and in the American Revolutionary War.

The country’s first documented ruler of Poland was Mieszko I in the 10th century.

Famous musical composer Frederic Chopin was Polish.

So is famed director Roman Polanski.

Poland has seven separate neighbors: Germany, the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Ukraine, Belarus, Lithuania, and Russia.

Central Europe’s only desert is located in Poland between Krakow and Czestochowa.

Polish military, police officers, and other uniformed services use a two-finger salute.

The name “Poland” comes from the Polans tribe, the former inhabitants of what is now Western Poland.

It’s hard to believe that time has passed so quickly. It feels like only yesterday that I was exploring Sweden and Norway. The clock has moved so quickly that I feel little has been accomplished over the last six months. Yet, at the same time, so much really has. I celebrated turning 30 in Greece, fell in love with the Ukraine, went to Oktoberfest, lost my passport, tried finding Dracula in Romania, returned to Copenhagen, met tons of other bloggers, and made countless friends.

I guess that’s a sign of a good time: when you feel as if you have accomplished very little and so very much at the same time.

Looking back on six months in Europe, I’ve gotten to visit many parts of the region I never saw before. But I also got to have one last hurrah as a Eurotripping backpacker. This is my last time spending months on end traveling Europe. I think of all the adventures I’ve had here over the last few years and say to myself, “Well, if I do one more summer I can go here, and there, and over there.” But that’s just me thinking up reasons to extend something I know I’m ready to move on from.

As I watch so many young travelers on their first adventures with a gleam in their eye as they discuss how they are going to come back next year, I do get a little sad. Hanging around so many young people keeps me young, but it also keeps me from growing up. I just want to live in this post-college, carefree age forever. I am constantly envious of these young 20-somethings. I want to come back, too. I want to be that carefree again. It’s like that line from the movie Dazed and Confused, “I get older but they stay the same age.” I don’t need to grow up when no one else is. But things change, and I’m ready for some change. However, sometimes you do miss the life you leave behind.

In three weeks, I’m off to Asia and I’m getting increasingly excited about it. I would have left for the warm Southeast Asian sun already, but there’s a big travel conference in London in November that I want to attend. But after that, Southeast Asia and I will be reunited.

It has been almost two years since I was last in Asia, and close to five since I traveled around it. I’m looking forward to this final leg of my trip because, after visiting Europe every summer for three years, I’ve grown very accustomed to it. It’s become too “normal” for me. Just like my trip to Latin America, I’m looking forward being somewhere where I don’t feel completely “at home.” I want a little uncertainty. I want to get a little lost and confused. I want something new.

In a few months time, “the end” will be here.

But, for now, I’m just going to simply keep moving.

But, despite my intentions, I barely accomplished anything in five days. Berlin is just too big and too vast. My original purpose was to write a post on what to do in 5 days in Berlin. But after realizing how hard it was to get around and see the sights, that post would be impossible to write. This city is just too overwhelming.

So, instead, here are some ways you can avoid my sightseeing mistakes, maximize the time you have in Berlin, and make the most of your visit:

General Tips

Rent a bike
Walking around Berlin takes (and wastes) a lot of time. However, the city is a great place for a bike ride. There are separate lanes for cyclists, so it’s easy to ride without the fear of getting hit by a car. Most residents bike around the city, and while I was a bit nervous when Uncornered Market first suggested it, by the end of the day I was really happy to be biking around Berlin. It provided a fast and easy way to move around Berlin, and bikes cost around 9 Euros per day to rent.

Do it in sections - I found out just how huge Berlin is when I tried walking between sites and subsequently spent the majority of my day just getting from Point A to Point B (which isn’t bad, but wasn’t planned for). Break up the city into various areas, and then work from area to area. It will make conquering the city much easier.

Take a free walking tour – New Europe runs a long and informative walking tour that begins at the Brandenburg Gate and lasts 3.5 hours. It takes you through the center of the city, shows you all the highlights, gives you some history, and will help you orientate yourself.

Eat cheap

You can judge a city on how cheap it is by the food, and the food in Berlin is incredibly cheap. And not just street food (you can find Currywurst everywhere!), kebabs, and quick pizzas, either – even the restaurants here are a bargain. You can find a lot of meals for fewer than 5 Euros. I would highly recommend eating at Mustafas. They are known for the best kebabs in Berlin. The exaggerations are true – the lemon, the mint, the fresh vegetables. Mouth watering.

My Must See and Do List

East Side Gallery

A giant section of the Berlin Wall was left standing, and artists were invited to paint a section of it that represented hope and violence. Now, the East Side Gallery represents one of the best outdoor art exhibits in Berlin. I was really moved by some of the paintings.

Jewish History Museum – Jews have faced a long and hard road in Germany. They have represented an important part of the population even though they were highly discriminated against. This museum traces the arrival of Jews and their contributions throughout German history as well as the hardships they faced. It doesn’t go into much depth on the Holocaust, as there is a wonderful separate museum for that. And like all museums in Germany, this is huge and will require a few hours to properly explore.

The Holocaust Memorial

Located in Mitte near the Reichstag, the Holocaust Museum (officially called “The Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe”) chronicles the Nazis’ treatment and extermination of the Jews. The memorial is made up of concrete slabs designed to create a feeling of confusion and unease as you wander through them. Below is a museum that follows various families through the Holocaust. It creates a very personalized and moving way to learn about this awful blight on human history.

Treptower Park

Located in the eastern part of Berlin, this park is near an old abandoned amusement park (which you can also visit).  This park is a popular place to bike around, and there are a number of beer gardens and a small island nearby where they have a weekend flea market. Moreover, you can rent boats and canoes and cruise the adjoining river.

Templehof Park – Located in the southern part of the city, this park is actually the site of the old airport used during the Berlin Airlift after World War II when the Soviets tried to blockade Berlin.  Now, it’s a big park with a lot of plaques and information about the old airport. It’s not the best park in Berlin, but it’s cool to be able to walk around a piece of history.

German History Museum – Germany has a very long history, and this museum provides a detailed account of the country starting from Roman times. It’s organized by time periods, and has detailed facts and lots of artifacts. It’s giant, though, so if you visit, make sure you can plan to spend at least 2 hours here. Skip the audio guide though, I didn’t find it to be that good.

GDR Museum – This museum focuses on life in East Berlin. It is separated into the various aspects of daily life – food, clothing, schooling, fun, music, etc. It provides a good window into how the citizens of East Berlin (the Communist side) lived. One thing I found interesting was that to escape the conformity of life under the Communists, it was normal for people to go to nude beaches.

Hang out in Tiergarten

Berlin’s central park is an excellent place to relax, walk, bike, and hang out. It’s one of the most beautiful city parks in all of Europe in my opinion. There is a war memorial relating to Russian soldiers, and you can also see the nearby Reichstag (German parliament) and famous Brandenburg Gate.

Checkpoint Charlie

This is the infamous gateway between former East and West Berlin. There is a reconstruction of the checkpoint here complete with fake soldiers (and lots of tourists taking pictures). The nearby museum was created in 1963 by Rainer Hildebrandt. It has a lot of pictures, information, and video about people’s attempts to flee the East. A word of caution, though: the museum is really tiny, making it hard to maneuver around due to the big crowds. Avoid going mid-day and on the weekend.

Take a boat tour

The Spree river flows through Berlin and there are lots of canals and waterways on which you can take a boat tour. It’s quite relaxing on a warm day.

Hang out on “the beach” – A great summertime activity involves hanging out on “the beach.”  Various areas of the riverbank (especially in the area across from the main train station) have “beach bars” where people lounge in beach chairs, drink beer, and soak up the sun.

The Dom

The biggest and most impressive church in Berlin, The Dom was built at the turn of the 20th century as an expression of imperial power. It’s located next to the museum island in Mitte, entrance is €5, and you can climb to the top of the dome for a beautiful view over the Berlin center.

Topography of Terror – This open-air museum documents the terror and horror of the Nazi regime. The SS and the Reich Security Main Office were located on this spot.  It also consists of excavated prison cells that were located under a remaining stretch of the Berlin Wall.

In the end, I’m glad I came back to Berlin. I didn’t see what the fuss was about the first time, but after this visit, I enjoy Berlin more. It’s still ugly, but the art, the music, and the food make it an energetic and happening place to be. Though I may not ever live here, I’d happily go back and visit – over and over again.

Editor’s Note: The city of Berlin gave me a tourism card that got me discounts at all these attractions as well as free transportation. 9flats.com, an apartment rental company, provided me with 3 nights free accommodation.

“We’re here for 5 days,” I replied, putting down my stein of beer. As she heard this, her facial expression (and that of her friend) became a mix of shock, disbelief, and horror.

“5 days! That is crazy! You’re a bit insane huh?” she said jokingly. “I hope you survive.”

And she was right. My friends and I were a bit insane to think 5 days wasn’t that long at Oktoberfest. I quickly learned that most Germans come simply for a day because, as I was informed many times, “that is enough time at the Wiesn.” It’s the tourists who stay longer.

In retrospect, 5 days at Oktoberfest was overzealous and something I wouldn’t do again. It was overkill. Even the group I was with, filled with able-bodied hardened drinkers, was exhausted by Day 3 and uninterested by Day 5. By the end, I never wanted to see a beer again.

But I survived the experience and had a great time, made a lot of new friends, hardened my liver a bit, met some cool travel bloggers, and learned just how to plan the perfect Oktoberfest trip.

What is Oktoberfest?
Oktoberfest was one of the best festivals I’ve ever attended. It’s a 16–18 day beer festival held annually in Munich, Germany, running from late September to the first weekend in October. It all began when Crown Prince Ludwig married Princess Therese on October 12, 1810. The citizens of Munich were invited to attend the festivities held on the fields in front of the city, which the locals call “Wies’n” (which means grass, and is why Oktoberfest is nicknamed Wiesn in Germany).

What to Expect at Oktoberfest
It’s great to see so many people dressed up in traditional Bavarian clothes (lederhosen for guys, dirndls for girls), having a good time, celebrating, and drinking good beer. I think these pictures and video paint the scene quite nicely:

You get a lot of people chugging beer….

….and a lot of people who fail at it….

….but, no matter what, there is a lot of singing.

One thing that I didn’t expect was that outside the beer tents, it’s a carnival. Literally, a carnival with games, rides, and even haunted houses. I felt like I was at a theme park in Anywhere, U.S.A. It didn’t feel like the Oktoberfest I was expecting until I got inside the tents.

Making a Table Reservation
Yes, you can book tables at the tents at Oktoberfest. In fact, many people do. I had a table reservation every day I was there because my friends and I wanted to make sure we had a place to sit. In the future, though, I’m not so sure I’d reserve tables again. It’s nice to know you have a place to sit down, but other than on weekends or at night, it seemed like you could always find an open seat, even if you had to stand for a while. If I booked a table again, I would only do it for the nighttime hours, when tables are harder to get and you might not want to stand around waiting.

If you do book at one of the tents, be aware that most tables seat between 6-10 people and cost about 300 Euros. My friends and I had to book a whole table so even if it’s just one of you going, you reserve the table as though you are going fill it. While you are supposed to have a full table when you sit down, we showed up a few people under and they didn’t seem to care. Your reservation also gets you food.

Also, each tent has its own personality. Some tend to be heavy on Americans, Australians, older Germans, rich celebrities, etc. So consider this before booking a table.

Here’s a good link that sort of breaks down the personalities of each tent.

Booking Accommodation
Book early. Accommodation fills up quickly – and some hotels and hostels book out up to a year in advance. The closer you get to the festival grounds, the more expensive beds are, and the quicker everything fills up. I booked a room in April and most places were already sold out. That room cost me 120 Euros per night, but was close to the festival grounds. I saw hostel rooms going for 60 – 80 Euros.

You can find cheap accommodation at “The Tent,” a hostel (well, really, a massive tent) outside the city for 40 Euros per night. That’s about as cheap as you will find unless you Couchsurf (which is hard because locals get a lot of requests from people looking for a free place to stay) or have friends you can stay with.

Getting Your Traditional Outfit

You can’t go to Oktoberfest without the traditional Bavarian outfit, and those are not cheap. A good lederhosen outfit begins at around 140 Euros. Dirndls, the traditional outfit for girls, begin around 100 Euros. (You can of course find cheaper outfits, though, if you aren’t looking for something of quality.)

How Much Does Oktoberfest Cost?
All the tents are free to enter. Beer is typically 10 Euros and most full meals are between 12 -15 Euros. You can get snacks and small meals for around 5 Euros. You can also buy alcohol outside the tents (but not beer), and the drinks cost around 8 Euros. You’ll also have to put a 2 Euro deposit down on the glass they give you. You’ll find tons of sausage and wurst stands everywhere for 4 Euros too.

General Survival Tips

It’s a marathon, not a sprint – You’ll be drinking all day, so there’s no need to rush it. Too many people pass out on the lawns by dinner time. Pace yourself. Those liters of beer are strong.

Hydrate – Drink a lot of water while you are there. I had Powerade and water bottles lined up in my room for when I got home and woke up.

Get to Kafer early – Most of the tents close at 10:30 p.m. Kafer is the only one open until 1 a.m., so everyone rushes there after the others shut down. Get there a bit before 10:30 p.m. so you have a spot, otherwise you simply won’t be able to get in or get served.

Get a table early – No reservation? Just winging it? If you aren’t there by mid-day, your chances of finding a table shrink greatly. Also try to avoid the times when they switch reservations. All the people that got kicked out are now looking for a free table and competition is fierce.

Eat outside – While all the tents have amazing rotisserie chicken, the food inside is simply expensive. Just walk outside, buy a cheap sausage, and save your money for the overpriced liters of beer.

All of this stuff adds up. It’s virtually impossible to do this event on a tight budget, but it’s definitely worth the expense. It only happens once a year and though it sort of busted my European budget, I don’t regret any of the money I spent. I’m really glad after years of false starts that I finally made it to Oktoberfest. My friends and I are already considering returning next year – though maybe not for 5 days again.

I don’t understand why – these countries are inexpensive, safe, and lack the overwhelming crowds you find elsewhere in Europe. These countries are half the price of their Western counterparts. In fact, during my 46 days in these three countries, I spent a total of $1,876.50 USD. And that was even taking into account all the sushi I splurged on! That’s a great deal for 46 days in Europe.

While I would normally break down the cost of each country into a single post, I want to put these countries together so you can see all at once how affordable this area of Europe is.

The Cost of Bulgaria

While in Bulgaria, I spent a total of 1,405.40 LEV in 23 days. That works out to be roughly $1,000 USD, or $43.47 USD per day at today’s exchange rate.  In the 23 days I was there, I visited all the major sightseeing destinations, especially the expensive and way overrated, Sunny Beach.

How I spent my money
Food: 475.90 (Cheap local meals, a few restaurants, and a lot of sushi.)
Accommodation: 445.70 (I stayed in dorm rooms and Couchsurfed for 5 nights.)
Alcohol: 259.40 (I partied pretty heavily, especially along the Black Sea.)
Buses: 100
Taxis: 19 (A few intra-city and airport taxis.)
Tours/Sightseeing: 53
Movies: 42.5
Water: 8.9
Chess in the park: 1

All prices are in Bulgarian LEV.

How much can you really do it for?
About the same. Excluding my sushi splurge, my daily average would have been around $38.29 USD. I didn’t spend lavishly in Bulgaria, or really do anything beyond what the normal budget traveler would do. I used local transport, ate local meals, stayed in cheap hostels. I would say that if you aren’t a sushi fan, then budgeting $35-40 USD per day in Bulgaria would be adequate.

If you are looking for nicer accommodation and more restaurant meals, you should consider budgeting $50-55 USD per day. And while these are not the rock-bottom prices you can find in other parts of the world, when comparing them to prices in Western Europe or Scandinavia, things are considerably cheaper.

How to Save Money in Bulgaria
If you want to save even more money in Bulgaria, here are a few ways to cut your expenses:

Couchsurf – Hostels are cheap, but if you want to save even more money, you can Couchsurf and stay with locals for free. There are a lot of available hosts in this country.

Cook – There’s a lot of cheap Bulgarian food, especially the pizza, hot dogs, and sandwiches on the street. Cooking your own food will obviously make things cheaper, too, especially since the markets have a wide variety of inexpensive fruits and vegetables.

Stay at Hostel Mostel – Staying at this hostel can lower your costs because not only do they offer free breakfast, but they also offer free dinner (which also comes with a free beer). Staying here gets you two meals a day.  They have locations in Sofia, Plovdiv, and Velinko Tarnovo.

Take Buses – The trains in Bulgaria are more expensive than buses.

The Cost of Romania

While in Romania, I spent 1878.30 LEI or $578.83 USD in the 16 days I was there. That works out to be 117.38 LEI or $36.17 USD per day. This covered the cost of travel from Bucharest through Brasov and Transylvania to Cluj-Napoca.

How I spent my money
Food: 724.4 (Sushi meals, a few nice restaurants, as well as cooking for 3 days.)
Accommodation: 881 (Dorm rooms and 2 nights in a private room.)
Alcohol: 9
Transportation: 113.9 (Buses and airport taxis.)
Tours/Sightseeing: 80 (Bran Castle, a bunch of museums, and walking tours.)
Cold Medicine: 57
Water: 13

All prices are in Romania LEI.

How much can you really do it for?
You can do Romania cheaper than I did. I spent quite a bit on sushi and had a few nights in a private room. Moreover, I got a cold and had to spend some money on medicine, which upped my budget too. I would say that $30 USD would be a reasonable backpacker budget for Romania, though you will probably spend more if you drink.

If you want a few nights in a private room, nice meals, and more sites, your budget will probably come close to $45 USD per day. If you ONLY stay in private rooms, then simply triple the amount of money I spent on accommodation and that’s how much you’ll need to budget for a place to stay.

How to Save Money in Romania
I didn’t find that Romania offered amazing ways to save. There wasn’t really any one thing that I found and was like, “Wow! This is going to be great! My budget is saved!” Outside the normal couchsurfing/cook/eat local tips, the country is cheap enough.

The Cost of Ukraine

My last stop in the region was Ukraine. While I was in the Ukraine, I spent a total of 2377.95 Ukrainian Grivna or $297.07 USD in the 7 days I visited the country. That works out to be a 339.70 Grivna or $42.52 USD per day. I was in Kiev and Lviv while I was here.

How I spent my money
Accommodation: 740 (I stayed in dorm rooms for about 100-110 Grivna per night.)
Food: 1122.50 (Mostly local Ukrainian restaurants and 2 fancy sushi dinners.)
Alcohol: 261 (2 nights out in Kiev.)
Transportation: 219.20
Tours/Sightseeing: 10
Water: 15.25
Chess: 10 (I paid to lose at chess in the park. It was fun.)

All prices are in Ukrainian Grivna.

How much can you really do it for?
One of the reasons my budget for Ukraine was so high was because I went out for sushi twice. When you exclude those meals from my budget, my daily average drops to 251 Grivna or $31.09 USD. I don’t think you can visit Ukraine for much cheaper than that. I was the ultimate backpacker here and stuck to everything cheap.

However, I would suggest you spend more and don’t be so frugal. Splurge on sushi or drinks or a nice room every so often. This country is cheap. (The cheapest I’ve been to in Europe, in fact.) Live it up. Enjoy it, because after the European soccer championship comes here next year, prices will surely go up. The Ukraine is currently one of the best value countries in Europe. Make the most of it while you can.

How to Save Money in Ukraine
If you really feel the need to spend even less money in Ukraine, you can do three things:

Couchsurf – If 5- 10 Euros per night is too much for you, then Couchsurf and save yourself money.

Head out of Kiev – The country is substantially cheaper outside of Kiev, as well as the closer you get to Russia.

Eat Local – By only eating at local restaurants like Puzata Khata, you’ll keep your food prices down as low as you can. A typical meal here cost me about 30 Grivna ($4 USD).

Drinking – This tip actually applies to all the countries mentioned here. In all these countries, you can buy 2.5 liter bottles of beer in supermarkets and corner shops for $1-2 USD. It’s incredibly good value and is the way to party on the cheap.

The eastern part of Europe is the best bargain you’ll find on the continent. These three countries were much more affordable than I had previously thought, and traveling here definitely helped me correct some of the overspending and higher costs of Western Europe. But, beyond just the monetary savings, these countries are rich in history, delicious food, and offer a challenge for travelers that you don’t find on the well-worn trail in other parts of Europe. I am so happy to have finally made it out here.

Note: I didn’t visit Moldova because of time constraints, but I’ve heard its prices are on par with the rest of the area. I didn’t go to Belarus either because it costs a few hundred dollars for a visa and I didn’t feel I would spend enough time there to justify the cost.

Which is a shame, because Helsinki was a pleasant surprise for me.

Like most people, I simply passed through here on the way to somewhere cheaper (Tallin, Estonia). Helsinki was beautiful, had good food, and the locals were lively and very friendly. But on a budget, you can only really spend a few days here.

So with only a few days, here are my suggestions on how to spend them:

Day 1

Post Museum

This museum showcases the history of the postal service in Finland. It may sound like a truly boring museum, but I thought it was actually interesting to see the evolution of mail service from sleds and ships to modern postal service. There’s a lot of detail here about how it evolved through Swedish rule, then Russian, and to modern Finnish.

Museum of Contemporary Art
I can’t say I like contemporary art. I have never understood how sticking a shovel in cement or slashing paint on canvas is “Art.” Give me the classic Impressionists or Dutch masters and I’m a happy guy. But contemporary art? No thanks. That being said, however, this museum is right up the street from the Post Museum, and from what I’ve been told, it has a great contemporary art collection if you’re into that kind of thing.

National Museum of Finland

I’ll admit that I’m a snob when it comes to history museums. I was a history major in school, and I get annoyed when museums lack descriptions or leave gaps in the story. However, I was really impressed with the National Museum of Finland. It has a large collection of artifacts, does a good job of providing lots of detail, moves the story along chronologically, and everything has a decent description so you know what you are looking at. I highly recommend this museum. It’s fantastic.

Finnish Museum of Photography
The photography museum is located on the far western edge of town, a bit removed from the center. It’s worth the walk, though, as it houses a strong collection that focuses mostly on Finnish artists.

Sinebrychoff Art Museum
This museum houses a lot of old paintings and portraits. It’s the only museum in the city that really focuses on old European art. The bottom floor of the museum has a lot of photos and more modern works, while the top floor has the older paintings that you see as you walk through the old Sinebrychoff residence.

Punavuori Park

Right near the Sinebrychoff museum is a nice little residential park worth hanging out at. There are a lot of little coffee shops around so you can grab a snack and just relax. After a day of walking around so much of Helsinki, you’ll probably need it.

Day 2

Bank of Finland Museum

This museum was one of the coolest museums I’ve seen in a long time. While it does a good job describing the history of money in Finland, what it really does is well is describe the history of finance and modern finance. It offers up detailed background and great exhibits. It was quite a learning experience.

Helsinki Cathedral

Right next to the bank museum is Helsinki’s giant cathedral. It towers over the surrounding square and inspired a few “wow’s.” You won’t walk away thinking this is one of the greatest cathedrals in Europe, but I did walk away thinking it was one of the best in Scandinavia.

Uspenski Church

This large red church is hard to miss, as it sits on a hill overlooking the city. This Eastern Orthodox Church is massive and very impressive with its large domes and gold crosses. The interior is very well decorated, too, with typical Eastern Orthodox icons.

Helsinki City Museum
Like the Finland history museum, the Helsinki version is just as good. There are plenty of descriptions, and great exhibits and photos. I would say it is the third best city museum I’ve come across in Europe after the Amsterdam and Barcelona museums. You shouldn’t miss it.

Central Market

Right down by the harbor is a market where you can do lots of souvenir shopping, eat some local food, and buy fresh vegetables (and lots of fresh berries in the summer). This place is usually swarming with tourists, but I heard enough Finnish there to make me realize it isn’t a complete tourist trap. There’s also a covered portion of the market where you can find pastries, fish, meat, and cheese. Eat at the Soup Kitchen if you’re hungry (have the seafood soup).

Esplanade Park

Heading from Central Market down Pohjoisesplanadi Street, this park seemed like a popular place to spend a lunch hour (though in winter it might not be so great). This long park is a good place to relax; there are a number of street musicians around, and a few eateries nearby.

Kaivopuisto Park
This huge park located down at the southeast end of Helsinki is a good way to end the day. During the summer, residents and tourist alike flock to this park to hang out, play sports, have a picnic, and take in the amazing view of the harbor. During the winter, the largest hill in the park is a favored slope for tobogganing. On Vappu day (May 1st), Kaivopuisto is packed with tens of thousands of Helsinkians, who come to picnic with friends and family, listen to loud music, and consume lots of alcoholic beverages.

Day 3

Visit the Island of Suomenlinna

You can spend half a day walking around this old bastion fort. It was first constructed by the Swedes in 1748 as a defense against the Russians. And when the Russians took over Helsinki in 1808, they used it as a garrison. It was eventually taken over by Finland in 1918, and now is a park and functioning residential area.

There are a lot of interesting buildings here, a lovely walking tour, and some out-of-the-way beaches and parks. Lots of Finns come here to hang out during the summer and relax. I think it’s a perfect place to spend half a day walking around, or having a picnic.

Visit the Harbor Islands

If you don’t spend a whole day hanging out and lounging around Suomenlinna, take a tour around some of the other islands in the harbor to get an idea about how important the harbor was to local lifestyle in the past. There are a ton of tours to choose from, and if you have a Helsinki card, most are 20% off.

I didn’t feel that three days was really enough time to truly see Helsinki. In the summer, Helsinki is best experienced through its outdoor areas, but with only three days, I know I missed out on a lot. If you can squeeze in more time here, I highly recommend visiting Porvoo, which is a day trip outside the city. The ferry leaves at 10 a.m. and comes back at around 5. There is an artist community there.

Note: You’re probably thinking – this is a pretty touristy guide. You’re right. With such little time and such great parks and informative museums in Helsinki, there wasn’t much time to do other things. Of course, if you have locals to show you around, follow them. But if you don’t, then this is what I would do with my time.

Budgeting in Helsinki
Like most Scandinavian cities, Helsinki isn’t cheap. (Though thanks to it being on the Euro, it’s cheaper than its neighbors.) If you are looking to save money, I first recommend getting a Helsinki card. There’s a lot to see here, and paying 8 Euros per museum will add up. I got a 48-hour Helsinki card for 45 Euros. I saved 15 Euros, plus included are discounts on some buffets and free city transportation. It wasn’t a lot but saving 15 Euros is better than spending 15 Euros you didn’t have to.

Food is expensive here. I never found anything cheaper than 5 Euros, and that was for a tiny lunch special. Mostly everything on the “cheap” side will be around 8-9 Euros (mostly pizza, kebab, and sandwich shops), if you aren’t cooking your own meals. During the lunch hour, many restaurants offer a lunchtime buffet costing between 8 and 10 Euros. Stockmann supermarket also has a wide variety of pre-made cheap meals for around 5 or 6 Euros. If you want to go expensive, I suggest Aino for good Finnish food (try the reindeer).

Helsinki doesn’t get all the press that other Scandinavian cities receive, but it is still worth a visit (especially if you are in the area, as it is only an hour from Tallinn, Estonia and an overnight ferry ride from Stockholm). And I guarantee with the itinerary above, you’ll make the most of your time there.

Note: After failing miserably at finding a Couchsurfing host, Roomorama was awesome enough to find me an apartment in the city for 2 nights. The hosts were amazing. The rest of the time I was at Eurohostel. They gave me private room right near the central market and are part of Hostelling International.

And, even if people aren’t fluent in English, they most likely know enough where I can order water, or get the bill, or find my way to the train station without any problems. While there have been times where I’ve had to gotten creative with non-verbal communication, for the most part, communication is much easier for me as an English speaker than it is for my friends from Germany or Portugal.

At least, until I went and visited Ukraine this month.

Out of all the countries I have been to, Ukraine ranks number one on the list of places where no one seems to speak English.

Now, it may sound like hyperbole to say that. Surely some people must speak some English, right? A few do. Those who interact with tourists or work in international restaurants can understand a few words. But everyday Ukrainians? The ones I encountered couldn’t even understand words like “water,” “train,” “bill,” or “thank you.”

Now, I’m not one of those tourists that demands the local people know my language. I wouldn’t really except anyone to be fluent in English just as someone from another place wouldn’t expect me to be fluent in their language. But given how pervasive English is around the world, in major cities, most people can say something so I am always surprised and fascinated when people don’t speak English.

One night, I was recommended a nice Ukrainian restaurant by my hostel owner in Kiev, and I asked the guy if they spoke English there. His response? “You’re in the Ukraine, man. No one here speaks English here.”

But you know what? The lack of English didn’t turn me off of Ukraine.

In fact, faced with an incomprehensible script (Cyrillic) and no one around to speak English with, I was actually excited by Ukraine. While it was nearly impossible to get around and ask for help, I looked at it as a challenge. I spent 20 minutes staring at a train schedule to figure out which train was mine. I got creative when trying to speak with people. I pointed a lot at things I wanted.

I loved the challenge. Though I was only there for a week,, I think that is why I loved Ukraine so much. It was a challenge to travel around. It was an adventure. And for me, the bigger the adventure and the more the challenge, the more I feel like I’m traveling, discovering, and learning about the world.

Travel can be so easy these days, especially if you are fluent in English. We native speakers are really luckily and it takes some of the challenge out of travel. But here I was, dropped in a truly foreign place. I had to pantomime “choo choo” to get to a train station, write numbers down for prices, and overall, just be very confused.

But Ukraine had a lot more to offer than just a language barrier. I only saw Lviv and Kiev but they were very interesting cities. There was this mix of modernity, old Soviet architecture, and beautiful parks. If I can anything about the Communists is that they really love to make parks. (I liked Lviv more because of its old historical center.) Little babushka grandmothers walked next to girls wearing Prada. The Russian Orthodox churches that littered their with their gold plating and cone tops were both opulent yet symbolized a deep sense of faith. And, I really loved Ukrainian food. I was surprised at how flavorful it was. I was expecting a hearty bland cuisine of meat and potato. But the borscht, the potato dumplings, the blintzes, the meat were delicious. I especially liked the borscht. The sour cream they put in it adds a wonderful texture to the soup. (For cheap and good Ukrainian food, eat at Puzata Khata. They have locations all around the city.)

While I was in Kiev, I also met up with a bunch of Couchsurfers who took me to a Ukrainian university party. Other than my Couchsurfer guide and one of her friends, no one there spoke enough English to converse with. There was a lot of translating involved. And a lot of vodka toasts. The Ukrainians love their vodka. I think to avoid awkward silences caused by the language barrier, we simply just toasted to something. We toasted too much actually and when I begin to slow down, they begin to laugh and try to feed me more vodka. I cannot hold my vodka as good as a Ukrainian.

Next year, the European soccer championship is being held in Ukraine, and I am going to try to attend. It will be a great reason to go back to a country I never expected would be so amazing and thrilling. I have barely scratched the surface of this huge country, giving me plenty of new things to do when I get back there. A week wasn’t even close to being enough. I especially want to go to Odessa, visit the east near Russia, and head to Crimea.

But given language barrier, I think I might need to learn some Russian phrases first.

Na zdorovye (cheers) will only get me so far.