I’d walk out of my room into the common area overlooking the lake and slink down next to my friends. “What movie are we watching today?” I would ask. Later, we’d go out for lunch, relax during the afternoon, and head out around town at night.

Phnom Penh was a city you just became stuck in. It sucked you in. It was laid back, cheap, filled with friendly locals, and an easy-going atmosphere. The locals were friendly, they were polite, and they were helpful. The pace of life here seemed adept at trapping other travelers and our group got bigger by the day as more people fell into the black hole that was Phnom Penh.

However, as the days ticked down on my visa, I knew I’d have to leave and when I finally did, I left in love with Phnom Penh.

I especially loved the gritty, Wild West feel the city had. Here the streets were still made of dirt, and cars and motorbikes raced around you in all directions as you gained upon an ox cart. People swarmed the streets. The buildings were a bit run down from years of neglect. Yet this was a city of contrasts with ritzy hotels standing next to abandoned buildings. Hell, they were still celebrating the arrival of ATM machines when I visited. The city was changing rapidly and there was such contrast that the feeling of possibility was tangible.

Now returning pretty much to the week 5 years later, so much of the city has changed and developed yet so much of it has stayed the same. Where before I had to walk miles for an ATM, there is now one on every corner.

Things are more expensive now, by which I mean meals now cost $1.50 to $2 USD instead of $1. Hotels that were once two dollars are now nine. Buses costs $5 USD instead of 4.

The most noticeable change is the lakeside district, once home to all the backpacker guesthouses, is now gone. It’s a tragedy that corruption and greed pushed over 4,000 people out of their homes and ruined one of the best areas of the city. (You can read my last post on the lake’s tragic destruction.)

There are more cars here and every shop now seems to be a mechanic’s garage. The roads of the city are now (mostly) paved; there are few overpasses now. Traffic is even worse than before.

It’s a city that has changed a lot since I was last here. There is a lot more money here, many nicer buildings, some shopping malls, and a lot more upscale restaurants. I’ve found some good sushi and Korean BBQ restaurants, which given the influx of Korean and Japanese money doesn’t surprise me much. Yes, Phnom Penh is developing.

But while the face of Phnom Penh might have changed, its heart has still remained the same.

It’s still gritty, polluted, and there is dust everywhere. Buildings are still run down, lots remain empty, the streets are still filled with chaos. People line the bars for hours on end on hot afternoons. Cars zoom past rickshaw drivers. The people still laugh on the corner like they used to and the old men play their domino games. Everyone is a hurry to get nowhere. Underneath the façade, it is still the crazy city it was those years ago.

Phnom Penh might not look like the city I fell in love with. Its exterior face has changed so much that I barely recognized it. It’s a new city. But that happens a lot in Asia. The pace of development is so rapid that years seem like decades of change here.

All those years ago, I came to Phnom Penh not really expecting much. I didn’t know a lot about the city. I simply imagined it to be a rundown city with not much worth staying for. Yet Phnom Penh became and still remains one of my favorite cities in the world. I loved Phnom Penh.

I was nervous coming back. When you walk away from a place with such fabulous memories, you can be scared to go back — because what if you only liked the place for the people and you return to find nothing but ghosts? What if the place you remember is now only a dream? I worry about that a lot when I travel but then I bite the bullet, fight the fear, and return to find that places can still be as wonderful as they were that first time around.

My experience was probably shared by thousands of other travelers who got stuck in Phnom Penh’s lake district. Sure, it was a bit seedy – a backpacker ghetto if there ever was one. There were the pushers, the touts, the dreads, bootleg movies, and cheap beer. But it was fun, relaxing, and a place that brought people together.

And it is no more.

Beoung Kak Lake has been completely filled in and destroyed. When I was here in 2007, there was talk about closing the area and pushing the residents out so developers could fill in the lake and build on the land. Well, the talk turned into action after I left and for the price of 88 million USD, Shukaku Inc, a firm run by the influential senator Lao Meng Khin (corruption anyone?) obtained a 99 year lease on the lake and the surrounding area.

And with that, the area’s fate was sealed.

I’ve heard of its decline in recent years. The encroaching sand and the departure of its residents. Now, that I’m back in Phnom Penh, I made sure to head over to see what was left of it first hand.

And, for the first time in my travels, I became deeply sad and angry over development. Development can bring a lot of benefits to a community, but here the flagrant disregard for people and the environment was too much and as I saw the area today, my heart sank — and is still sunk. It was heart wrenching to be there.

Gone is the lake, completely filled in except for a small strip of polluted sewage water. What once looked like this:

And this:

Now looks like this:

And from another angle:

And another:

Gone are the docks that stretch over the river where you could watch the sunset and bond with new friends while being attacked by mosquitoes.

The two dollar all-you-can-eat Indian place has been demolished:

And my favorite bar, The Drunken Frog? Boarded and locked up.

All that remains of this once vibrant area is a bunch of torn down buildings, empty lots, and shacks. Buildings that once held vibrant businesses are now tenements. A few businesses have held on and I saw three guesthouses still open. But there was less than a handful of people around. The lack of touts and tuk tuk drivers spoke to the fact that crowds had long disappeared.

“That place used to have a great breakfast,” I pointed out to my friend. “That’s where we played poker.” “That pile of rubble used to be a great seafood place.” “I used to stay here,” I said pointing to another place.

I wandered through the ruins of my memory and, as I stood on the pile of sand that was once the lake, I was deeply disturbed. There is a hole in my heart where the lake once was.

I don’t mind development. Places change, towns grow, societies develop. For the most part, I think development can be a very good thing, especially when it is done right. But looking around here I saw nothing but destruction and greed. The lake area was home to thousands of people who eeked out a life in a none too glamorous part of the city. They ran businesses here. Raised families here and lived lives that have been destroyed.

But as so often happens around the world, the locals were pushed aside for big money. Residents had very little legal recourse. The legal battle over eminent domain and just compensation was a farce. They were just told to leave, given a little compensation, and if they didn’t like it, too bad. The same thing happened in Ko Phi Phi after the tsunami, when locals were pushed out to make way for rebuilt resorts. Over the years Cambodia has become rife with corrupt land deals. Residents are kicked out in blatantly illegal moves that have even some people wishing for the Khmer Rouge, because “at least they had a place to live.” The residents are left with little compensation and a lot of unemployment and debt.

I’m sad that the lake district isn’t there anymore. I wish future travelers could have experienced the great memories that so many other people have before them.

But mostly, I’m sad and disappointed in the shortsighted nature that would fill in a lake, ruin a community, and destroy a section of town in the name of money. There was no real need to fill in this lake. The only “real” need was greed.

While a few families were allowed to stay and only after the prime minister intervened, thousands more weren’t so lucky. The lake could have been developed with the families in mind and the area saved. But that was not the case.

And so as officials enrich themselves in a clearly dubious and corrupt land deal, all that everyone else is left with is a pile of sand and a lot of resentment.

Editor’s Note: Save Boeung Kak has the latest on the ongoing battle between the residents who are trying to keep what is left of their homes and the government.

It requires a whole different mentality. It’s a lot easier to do that when you can average out your expenses over a few months instead of a few weeks. On a vacation, you tend to race around trying to see as much as you can, which can drive up your costs a lot.

Thailand is a very cheap country to live and travel around. I hardly spend much money here. But that changed when my friends came and why that changed is important for anyone planning to come to Thailand. While my friends were here, I spent a lot of money. For the 24 days we traveled, I spent $1,596.27 USD or $66.51 dollars per day. Here’s the numbers breakdown (all prices are in in Thai Baht):

• Accommodation (cheap guesthouses, nice beach bungalows, luxury jungle huts) – 13,565
• Flights around Thailand – 4,200
• Transportation (public buses, trains, taxis) – 1470
• Ferry to, around, and from the islands – 1875
• Diving in Ko Tao – 800
• Hiking in Khao Sok – 1200
• Movie and Popcorn (Sherlock Holmes 2 – don’t see it!) – 320
• Misc (bug spray, toothbrush, etc) – 363
• Drinks (it was the holidays!) – 10,115
• Jim Thompson House (museum in Bangkok) – 100
• Medicine (I popped my ear drum scuba diving!) – 1,890
• Food (street food, seafood dinners, international meals in Bangkok) – 11,000
• Web stuff – 890
• Water – 100

Total Spent: 47,888 Baht or $1,596.27 USD

Note: $1 USD = 30 Baht.

For Thailand, I think that is a lot of money. I tell people that backpacking around Thailand costs $30-35 USD per day depending on how much alcohol you consume and how many days you spend on the islands, where costs are higher. Most of the time, I spend less than that. I just stayed a week in the northern city of Chiang Mai and I only spent about $25 USD per day. That included accommodation (private room with bathroom), local food, Starbucks, the occasional Western meal, and a few drinks.

So Why Did I Spend Double?

Though my intention was to do “Thailand on a budget”, as I traveled with my friends, I realized something I forgot long ago. When time is limited and this is might be one of two big trips all year, you don’t want to scrape every penny. Vacations don’t need to cost a fortune but if you aren’t traveling all the time, then staying in the cheapest place to make your money last becomes less of an issue. You want nice things.

You travel faster. You take planes, not 12 hour trains. You cram more activities into your day. You pamper yourself more. You eat nicer meals.

And my friends definitely wanted all the above.

How Much Do You Need?

That’s not to say I don’t think a vacation in Thailand can’t be done cheaper. It can. I think a budget of around $50 USD per day would be perfect for a short vacation to Thailand. You don’t need to spend as much as I spent. I spent a lot of money going out, using the internet for work, and seeing a doctor. If I cut out those expenses, my average drops to 1,421.16 Baht or $47.31 USD per day. That’s more expensive than a backpacker budget but really good for a trip to Thailand.

Throw in some extra money for shopping, and a maximum of $55 USD per day would give you a very, very nice budget vacation in Thailand. For that price, you would get:

• Flights so you don’t have to spend time on long bus rides.
• Meals that include local restaurants and cheap street food as well as delicious seafood dinners and some delicious international food in Bangkok.
• Budget guesthouses with a few “splurge” nights thrown in.
• Some tours and activities.
• A few drinks.
• And a little extra wiggle room just in case.

Pretty much the essentials of any good, relaxing holiday.

While all the money-saving tips mentioned on my website can be applied to any style of trip you decide to take (saving money is universal), the speed in which you travel on a vacation changes the dynamic of how you spend money. We could have saved a lot if we skipped the flights and took the train but my friends didn’t have the time to spend 12 hours on a train. We flew, which during peak season, is expensive.

This experience brought reminded me how accelerated travel requires us to be more vigilant in our efforts to save money. In the rush to see everything, you can spend a lot of money before you even realize it. I’ll admit that the budget traveler I normally am went out the door on this trip. I would normally never fly around Thailand, would skip the expensive resorts, and wouldn’t eat as much international food as I did with my friends.

A three-week vacation in Thailand might not be as cheap as a three-month backpacking trip but it can still be inexpensive so long as you watch where your money goes and don’t forget about budgeting in your quest to see everything.

We need to talk. I love you. Truly, I do. I’ve been a backpacker for a long, long time now. I love being one and probably will consider myself one for a long time to come. But while backpacking through Southeast Asia over the last few months, I’ve noticed some disturbing behavior that we really need to talk about.

To be blunt – why do you act so damn stupid sometimes?

I’m asking because I’m a concerned friend. It seems like when many of you fly to Southeast Asia, you check your intelligence at the boarding gate and decide that risking your life in the pursuit of alcohol-fueled, drunken excitement is a smart thing to do.

And that really concerns me.

For starters, let’s talk about Vang Vieng, Laos. Now, I can’t walk down a street in Asia without bumping into a backpacker wearing that damn “I went tubing in Vang Vieng” shirt. And when I see it I wonder – why on earth would you think jumping into a shallow river while drunk is a good idea?

Twenty-two people died this year alone. You could end up like this guy who just died. Or the guy in this video who cracked his head open.

There is also this guy.  Him. Or her.

And those are just the examples I found on the first page of Google!

I mean, seriously, if we were back home and I said “Hey man, let’s go get blind drunk and jump into a shallow river. Oh, and if something goes wrong, there’s no real hospital anywhere to get help. It’ll be fun!” how would you react?

You would look at me like I was crazy. And rightly so.

This is not a good idea. Nothing about it this seems remotely like a good idea. Nothing. There’s nothing wrong with getting drunk on some lazy river or partying at bar near a river. Heck, crack me open a Corona and sign me up for both. But this? Foolish.

There’s also something called “The Death Slide” next to this river – it got the name due to all the people who have died using it, which begs the question — why are people stupid enough to keep using it?!

People say it’s a tragedy when something terrible happens in Vang Vieng. No — a tragedy is someone getting in a car accident or a house burning down. What happens in Vang Vieng is sad, but it’s simply Darwinism. I have no sympathy for someone who decides to do this and gets hurt. When you play with fire, you’re going to be burned. And since you are my friend, I don’t want to see you get burned.

And while we’re on that subject, let’s talk about fire.

I love fire as much as the next person. There’s something primordial about it, but I don’t like putting myself in situations where I’ll get burned. Why do you? Throughout Asia, I see backpackers jumping the “fire rope.” You know, the rope that locals light on fire with gasoline and then have you skip across it like we’re in the 5th grade and playing double dutch.

Here’s a tame version of what happens to some people:

You may be the world’s best jump roper but the drunk guy who decides to join you might not be. While you’re skipping rope, a bunch of drunks decide to join you and pretty soon, you’re on the ground scrambling away from the fire in hopes of not getting your face burned. I recently watched a guy get the rope wrapped around his arm and burn all the skin off. He was rushed to the hospital. I’ve seen people fall on the rope and burn their face, hair, and clothes. I’ve watched people trip on the rope and land in the gasoline.

Fire + alcohol + random drunks = bad idea.

A second degree burn is not the memory you want to keep from Southeast Asia.

Finally, let discuss your ability to drive a motorbike – or lack thereof. Everywhere I go I see people with injuries: bandaged legs, huge exhaust pipe burns on their calves, and broken limbs. When I ask what happened, it’s usually the same answer – “I got into a motorbike accident.”

Back home, you wouldn’t drive without a license, so again, why do it here? Sure, the bikes have small 150 cc engines and are pretty slow. On a nice and easy road, you’d have no problems.

But driving in Asia is not like driving back home. Here, drivers overtake people on tiny one-lane roads, they don’t look, they stop short, and they speed like they are in Nascar. The roads aren’t in good condition, either. They are often windy, steep, take sharp turns, and filled with potholes. Plus, besides the crazy traffic in Asia, you have to deal with all the other backpackers who decide it’s a good idea to rent a bike they have no idea how to ride.

I’ve seen too many crashes and near misses here in Asia.

Sometimes I wonder – who the heck are you traveling with that lets you do these crazy things!!!?

Sure, I’ve done a number of stupid things while traveling. Things I’m not going mention because my parents read this website, but I’ve never done anything stupid enough that it would jeopardize my life or health.

I love a good adventure, but I also like to be alive. These aren’t things you would do back home, so don’t do them overseas. Sure, it may seem like a good idea at the time — most everything is when you’re drunk. But when you end up like all those people in Laos, or get 2^nd degree burns, or scars from a bike accident, it suddenly isn’t such a good idea, is it?

You’re my friend. I like hanging out with you. I want to keep hanging out with you.

But can we cut the stupid shit? It’s incredibly dangerous and makes all of us seem like drunken idiots.

Sincerely,

Matt

But what is this party? How did it come about? Why is it so popular? And most importantly – how can you get there yourself!? I’ve been to seven Full Moon Parties over the years, and I can tell you that there is a certain way to experience this party to avoid overpaying, getting injured, finding good accommodation, and making sure you’re still up at sunrise.

What is the Full Moon Party?
Legend has it that in 1987 (or maybe 86? or 88?) a group of backpackers threw a birthday party for their friend on the night of the full moon. They had such a good time that they came back the following year to do it again and then the following month and then the month after that. Word got out and more people started coming each month.

At first, it was like a small house party on the beach – a few hippies and backpackers playing guitars, smoking weed, and having a few beers. But as word spread and more people showed up, it changed. The 1990s brought the rave scene and all the drugs that went along with it. By 2000, this party was squarely on the travel map and hordes of young people inspired by the movie “The Beach” flocked to Ko Phangan and, since then, the Full Moon Party has only gotten bigger.

Now, the Full Moon Party is a giant festival-like party with a lot of drinking, dancing, drugs, and sex. Each bar has their own sound system so you’ll hear different music loudly blasting onto the beach every few feet. The beach itself is lined with people selling alcohol, fire dancers putting on shows, and little booths selling glow-in-the-dark face paint. By the end of the night, you’ll see people passed out on the beach, the odd couple having sex, and lost flip-flops littering the beach looking for new owners.

Despite the party’s obvious commercialization, it is still a lot of fun and people come here looking for nothing but a good time. It’s rare to see any of the problems (i.e fights) you might normally associate with 40,000 young, drunk people. People here are just looking for a good time and the energy is very positive.

When is it?
As the name would suggest, the party is on the night of the full moon. It you miss it, there’s always the half-moon party, quarter moon party, and black moon party. Really, every night is a party here on Ko Phangan.

This website has the dates of all the Full Moon Parties.

Accommodation

There’s accommodation all over the island but you’ll want to stay in Haad Rin (where the actual party is) so you can be close to the action. If you want to find accommodation, you’ll need to come here at least FOUR days before the party in order to find a cheap (and nice) place to stay. The closer you get to the actual night of the party, the more you’ll need a miracle to find something – at any price range. I’ll never understand the travelers who just show up the day of or the night before and think they’ll find a place to. They never do. I’ve sat at restaurants and watched the same people wander up and down the street many times in a fruitless attempt to find something.

How much does a room cost?
Here’s what you can expect to pay for your bed:

Dorm room (there are now a lot of dorms here, something that wasn’t the case a few years ago): 300 Baht per night
Regular room with A/C and hot water: 500-800 Baht per night
Really nice room: 1000 – 1500 baht
Basic bungalow: 800 Baht per night
Really nice bungalow: 2,000 – 3,800 Baht per night

$1 USD = 30 Baht

The closer you get to the Full Moon the more the prices go up. The day of or the day before the party, any accommodation left is going to be double the price listed. And if you come here for New Years, you can expect the price to triple, with many places also including an expensive holiday dinner that is mandatory. (Just another way to get more money from you!)

My friends and I arrived 5 days before the full moon and found a lot of cheap accommodation still available. We settled on a room we would all share for 1,500 baht. A few days later, the cheap accommodation was gone and all that was left were the high-end rooms that cost more money than a night at the Hilton but without the Hilton quality.

Lesson: Come early, get a room, enjoy the party, and say no to stress.

Should you book online in advance?
No, not even if you are going there for New Years. The accommodation you’ll find online will be the most expensive on the island and require long minimum stays (sometimes as many as 10 nights). There is a lot of accommodation in Haad Rin and most aren’t on online booking services like Hotels.com or Agoda. You will only find them by showing up. Just come early and you will have no problem finding a room.

A good alternative to Haad Rin is Ban Tai beach. It’s the beach over from Haad Rin and where a lot of people stay when rooms start to fill up. It’s a short and inexpensive taxi from Haad Rin. If you stay on the northern part of the island, you will be very, very far away from the party and, though boat taxis and normal taxis run frequently, they are expensive.

How to Get There

There’s no airport on the island so everyone comes by ferry. You can come via Surat Thani on the mainland, or from the nearby island of Ko Samui. From Surat Thani, roundtrip tickets cost 600 Baht and drop you off at the main pier in Thong Sala. From there it is a 100 Baht taxi ride to Haad Rin. From Ko Samui, boat tickets cost 200 baht and leave from Big Buddha Pier or Maenam beach. The Samui ferry will drop you off at the main dock of Thong Sala or Haad Rin depending on time of day and ferry company. During the Full Moon Party, boats go from Ko Samui to Haad Rin every hour.

A lot of companies run overnight buses from Bangkok to Ko Phangan for 450 – 600 Baht. This price also includes the ferry. You’ll take an overnight bus to Surat Thani, sit at the ferry terminal for a few hours, and then take the ferry to the island. It is a long, long night/day but it’s much cheaper than flying. (Note: Some bus companies go to Chumphon and put you on a ferry from there. Either route is still a lot of travel but the ferry from Chumphon is usually nicer.)

If you decide to fly, flights from Surat Thani generally cost around 2,000 baht (with taxes and fees) from Bangkok on Air Asia. Flights from Ko Samui are at least 3,200 Baht since Bangkok Airways and Thai Airways keep a monopoly on the airport and see no reason to lower prices with demand so high. During the high season and around New Year’s Eve, ticket prices can get as high as 5,000 Baht.

The Full Moon Party Itself

The party begins days before as people trickle onto the island. On the day of the party, you see people from the neighboring Ko Samui and Ko Tao and from other parts of the island adding to the crowd. You’ll see people start drinking in the afternoon and most people begin to head to the beach around 9pm with the crowd peaking around midnight to 2am. On New Year’s Eve, the beach will be full by 8pm.

Costs
Here’s what stuff costs on Haad Rin:

Average Thai meal: 120 Baht
Average western meal: 200 Baht
Banana Pancakes: 30 Baht
Cheap food sold on the beach: 40-50 Baht
Beer: 80-100 Baht (30 in 7-11)
Cigarettes: 80 Baht
Buckets: 200 -300 baht, depending on what kind of alcohol. They can be up to 400 baht on New Year’s Eve.
Toilets: 5 – 10 Baht

Money Saving Tips
Alcohol – Buy your beer at the 7-11 or buy buckets away from the beach, where they are as cheap as 180 baht.

Food – Food is expensive in Haad Rin but there are some good budget choices. Paprika, the Israeli restaurant, offers a falafel sandwich and fruit shake combo for 100 Baht. In the center of town is a parking lot and if you walk down the street behind it, you’ll find small Thai restaurants that offer 50-60 Baht meals, about half the price of most other restaurants. Moreover, across from “Planet Hollywood” (just a restaurant that ripped off the name) is another good and inexpensive Thai place.

What the F$%^$ is a bucket?
Remember when you were a kid and you built a sand castle using a little pail? Now, picture that pail filled with a can of Coke, Thai redbull, and 375 ml of alcohol — and you now have a Thai bucket. A few of these and you’ll be having a really interesting night.

Party Survival Tips

Drugs: There are a lot of drugs here, especially during the full moon. All drugs are illegal in Thailand and punishable by time in some pretty bad prisons. Undercover police will try to sell you drugs only to arrest you. Locals will rat you out for a reward. Thais love to crack down on foreigners who are dumb enough to be doing drugs in the open. However, most cops have no real desire to lock you away for smoking a joint or doing a pill. It’s too much hassle and paperwork. They do have a real desire to take a bribe though. Expect to pay upwards of $1,000 USD for your get out of jail free card. (Actual bribe varies depending on the cop and your ability to bargain down the bribe.)

Skip the jump rope: Picture this. We’re at bar. I turn to you and say “Hey friend, let’s go outside. I’m going to soak a rope in gasoline, light it on fire, and then you and some drunk strangers are going to skip rope.” You would look at me like I was crazy and tell me to get lost. But people on this island do exactly that – they jump over a rope of fire. It’s stupid. You may be the world’s best jump roper but the drunk guy who decides to join you might not be. At my last full moon party I saw a lot of people get burned, and the rope wrapped around one guy’s arm and burn all the skin off. He had to be rushed to the hospital. It was not a pretty scene. It’s not how you want to remember your holiday. Here’s a tiny example:

Buckets: They’re deadly! One, two, three, passed out on the beach! Every full moon, while I eat dinner I see newbies drinking buckets before the sun has even gone down. They’re the same people I see passed out on the beach by midnight. A few buckets will get you very, very drunk so I have a hard and fast rule that I and other experienced full mooners follow: no buckets before midnight. If you want to actually see the sunrise, I’d follow it too. (Note: The Red Bull sold in Asia contains ephedra. This substance is like speed. It also negates the effect of the alcohol quickly, keeping you from feeling drunk. Be careful and watch your consumption of both liquids.)

Hydrate: You are going to be drinking a lot and, even though it is night time, the weather is still hot and humid. Drink a lot of water before and during the event! It will also help your hangover the next day.

Stay out of the ocean: It may seem like a good idea to play in the ocean but it’s not. Not only do you risk drowning (there can be strong waves), but everyone uses the ocean as their personal toilet during the party. There’s a reason the water is warm — and it’s not because you are in Thailand. Stay sanitary and don’t go in.

Wear footwear: Partying on the beach without footwear may seem like a good idea but as the night goes on, broken beer bottles and other sharp objects litter the beach. I’ve had many friends slice open their feet after stepping on a bottle. You are drunk, it’s dark, and you aren’t always looking where you are going. Avoid a foot injury and just wear something on your feet!

Personal belongings: Theft is rife during the party. Bring as little as possible. Bring enough money for drinks and your room key. You don’t really need anything else.

The Full Moon Party is one of the biggest and most well-known parties in the world. The vast majority of travelers in Southeast Asia attend at some point and I have seen people of all ages and nationalities (as well as a few families) here. The party is definitely a unique and interesting time but if not done right, it can also be expensive and dangerous.

So party — but party smart.

But this time, I used my visiting friends and my job as “tour guide” as the excuse I needed to finally push myself to this park. And I’m glad I did — I’ve been to many wonderful national parks in Thailand but this is one of the best.

I spent three days surrounded by dense jungle, animals, and cooling jungle air. The highlight of my trip was the day-long jungle trek I took. Starting out late in the morning (9:30), my friends and I met our guide, bought our park entrance tickets, and drove to the far end of the park. Instead of doubling back on the main trail, we would explore another trail, hike 400 meters to see some giant flowers, head towards a waterfall, eat lunch, and then walk back to the main park entrance.

It all seemed easy enough. I envisioned a well-worn trail and a mildly strenuous day hike. We were doing 11 km in the jungle so it wouldn’t be a cake walk, but I didn’t anticipate that this trek would be much of a challenge, especially since the last half was on the park’s main road.

I was wrong.

Very wrong.

This hike was stressful, challenging, leech-infested, and exhilarating all at the same time. It started out easy enough – we hiked 400 meters to visit giant parasitic flowers. Attaching themselves to vines, the flowers sap the life from the vines to grow. After 9 months, they blossom, spray their seed throughout the jungle, and die within 4 days. However, while in bloom, the flowers are a sight to see.

The hike to the top wasn’t very tough. The trail was well-worn, had amazing vistas from which to view the surrounding jungles, and I didn’t break much of a sweat. On the way up, we caught sight of a troop of gibbons making their way through the treetops. Gibbons in Khao Sok are rare to see and it was quite amazing to see them, especially since I love monkeys. They moved too quickly to be photographed. By the time I clicked my camera, they had moved on so instead of fruitlessly capturing a photo, I just watched them in their glory. When we got to the top, our guide told us we would hike down to the waterfall. I assumed he meant we would be heading down another trail.

Again, I was wrong.

Our trail had opened up at the top of the waterfall and our guide looked at us. “Ok, we’ll eat lunch, but first we have to get down. It will be no problem. We have ropes, and I go first.”

My friends and I looked at each other hesitantly. To get to the base of the waterfall, we were going to have to embrace our inner Indiana Jones to rappel down the side. As you may know, heights make me extremely uncomfortable and I opted to go down last as I worked up the courage to never look down.

However, we didn’t encounter too many steep drop offs and soon I was vying to the lead the way. We would rappel down ropes. When there was no rope to guide us, we scaled the rocky sides of the waterfall, holding on to vines as we made our way down to the base.

But the waterfall was not the worst of it. After lunch, we had to hike downriver, which entailed following the river, which sounds pretty simple. Walking along a river bed is normally not a challenge, but not here. There was no trail or easy path. Sometimes we had to walk on large, wet rocks, climb up the narrow embankment, or scale down vines again when the river became impassable.

And the leeches only made it worse. By the time I walked out of Khao Sok, I had taken seven leeches off my legs, and a few even found their way onto my arms. Luckily, unlike the leeches in northern Thailand, most of these leeches were small and easy to grab off. Unfortunately, my friend didn’t notice one until the end, which by then had enlarged so much it left a scar on his foot.

After the river and subsequent leech removal (cue The Life Aquatic jokes), we were in the home stretch — it was now an easy walk through a bamboo forest back to the park entrance. On our way out of the park we were given a farewell by another troop of monkeys. These weren’t gibbons and I forget their proper name but they jumped around for a while, playing in the trees, and giving us one last exciting thing to remember. When it was all said and done, our hike had lasted a little over 8 hours. Back at my guesthouse, I took the hottest shower of my life, scrubbed myself clean and collapsed on my bed.

Though tiring, this jungle trek was the most exciting in recent memory. I left Khao Sok with a sense of rawness. Here the lack of people and trails let you feel as if you are exploring the jungle for the first time. I love the moments when you travel that make you feel as if you have unearthed a hidden gem. As though you had found somewhere or some place long forgotten by man. That may not be the case, but that sense of wonderment, adventure, and exploration are what drive me on my travels.

And in Khao Sok, it was just me, the jungle, and that sense of adventure.

But I could have done without the leeches.

Logistics

• You can get to the park via Surant Thani or Phuket. Most hotels will offer you private transportation for 2,000 baht, though you can hire a taxi from either place for around 1,500 baht. If you are with a group of 4 this can be a good deal as it’s much quicker and far easier.
• If you go by public bus, the minibus is 250 baht each way from Surant Thani town and 300 Baht from Phuket. It will drop you off on the main road leading up to the park. You’ll have to walk the rest of the way.
• The park entrance fee is 200 Baht or 100 Baht if you are a student.
• Hiring a guide from one of the tour operators or guest houses (very recommended due to the lack of marked trails) costs 1,000 Baht per person and comes with lunch.
• There is only one ATM in town.
• You can find cheap guest houses for 300 Baht per night with very basic accommodation and cold showers. Rooms get better at around 600 Baht per night and luxurious around 1,400 Baht per night.

The Trans-Siberian Railway is one of the most famous train journeys in the world. For me, it was the highlight of the three months I spent in Russia. I traveled in reverse, going from Vladivostok to Moscow (most people start in Moscow) and went slowly, taking nearly a month to complete the journey and stopping in five cities along the way.

Planning Your Route
The traditional Trans-Siberian route stretches 9288 kilometers between Moscow and Vladivostok. Two variations are also popular – the Trans-Mongolian (between Moscow and Beijing via Mongolia) and the Trans-Manchurian (between Moscow and Beijing, bypassing Mongolia).  All three routes take 6-7 days if going non-stop.

Most travelers start their journeys in Moscow and go east.  If you are anxious to interact with locals or improve your Russian skills, consider starting in Vladivostok or Beijing and heading west. You will likely encounter fewer tourists and more locals who are simply taking the train as a means of transportation, not as an adventure.

Beijing is probably a more attractive bookend to the journey than Vladivostok and likely provides easier onward connections – the best options from Vladivostok are to either fly back to Moscow (about $250) or take a ferry to Japan or South Korea ($400 and up).

Chances are you will need a visa to travel to one or more of Russia, Mongolia and China, so that may factor into which route makes the most sense for you. Rules vary by nationality, so I encourage you to visit the relative consulate website for your home country several months in advance to learn what is required.  For more on my experience obtaining a Russian visa, check out How to Get a Russian Visa.

Where to stop along the way?

Unless you love the idea of spending a week straight on a train, I recommend making a couple of stops along the way. One of the best things about the Trans-Siberian is the opportunity it affords you to see more of Russia than just Moscow and/or St. Petersburg. The most interesting people I met and the best experiences I had along the way came not on the train, but during my stops, which included:

Kazan

Technically a detour from the Trans-Siberian route, every Russian I met ooh-ed and aah-ed when I told them I was stopping in this 1000-year-old city, exclaiming how beautiful it is. Ignoring the foot of snow I trudged through while I was in town and the cloudy skies that loomed over me, I have to agree.

Kazan’s Kremlin is a UNESCO World Heritage site and in my opinion has much more character than the Kremlin in Moscow.  A large mosque dominates the scene, the main drag is lined with pine trees, and vendors gather along the Kremlin walls, selling mostly Islamic and Tatar-themed souvenirs.  I spent several hours there, including a visit to the Museum of Islam, the Russian Orthodox church, and the natural history museum.

Yekaterinburg

Yekaterinburg is best known as the place where the last tsar, Nicholas II, and his family were murdered in 1918. My fascination with imperial Russian history made it a must-see – particularly Ganina Yama, the site where their bodies were discarded. Now considered holy ground, seven chapels have been constructed on the site, one for each member of the royal family.  I was most touched by a photo display showing the family in their daily lives – it really personalized the tragedy of their deaths.

Krasnoyarsk

The city itself is fairly bland, but my reason for stopping was to visit the Stolby Nature Reserve – a collection of fascinating volcanic rock pillars scattered throughout the wooded hills outside of the city. Visiting in late November, I was surprisingly not alone in braving subzero temperatures and sometimes knee-deep snow to hike around to all of the rock formations.  My guide, Vitaly, provided sometimes inappropriate stories about the rocks, a much-needed hand as we climbed a few for incredible views – and some cognac for warmth before we started!

Irkutsk

Irkutsk provides a jumping-off point to see Lake Baikal – the deepest lake in the world. If you are short on time, plan on a day trip to Listvyanka, a small town on the shores of Lake Baikal and about 90 minutes from Irkutsk.

If you have at least 3 days, Olkhon Island, the largest island in the lake, is a must-see.  Its main town, Khuzhir, takes you back decades with sandy dirt roads and cows roaming the streets. The ride there is half the fun – I shared the 6-hour marshrutka (mini-van) trip to the island with a cute Belgian couple, a couple of babushkas, and a large Russian man chugging vodka out of a bottle stashed in his jacket pocket.

Once in Khuzhir, the couple and I split the cost of hiring a van and driver to take us around the island for an afternoon. Dipping my hand in the near-frozen lake, sliding on the ice that formed on its shores and playing in the fresh snow on the north end of the island provided some of my best memories from my entire time in Russia.

Ulan Ude

Just an eight hour train ride from Irkutsk and not far from the Mongolia border, Ulan Ude is the capital of Buryatia, home to Russia’s largest indigenous people, the Buryats.  While I only had a day and a half there, I made the most of it, visiting the open-air museum just outside of town, stopping at a small museum on the history of Buryatia (some explanations in English) and enjoying the sunset from one of the highest points in Ulan Ude.

Ulan Ude is also a center of Buddhism in Russia.  I hired a guide (about $12/hour for 4 hours) to accompany me to the Buddhist monastery in Ivolga, about 40 minutes outside of the city. She taught me the basics of Buddhism and, as a Buryat, she gave me insight into their culture.

Booking Your Tickets

If you are on a tight schedule, it makes sense to book your tickets ahead of time.  Tickets can be issued up to 45 days in advance and many travel agencies can do this for you. I used Real Russia and highly recommend them – they can also help with obtaining a letter of invitation for visa purposes. It is also possible to book online yourself at www.rzd.ru or www.poezda.net if you can read a little Russian.

For the more flexible travelers, you can purchase your tickets at the stations as you go along. However, be prepared for the possibility that the train you want may already be sold out and don’t be surprised if none of the cashiers speak any English. And, schedules posted at the stations will be on Moscow, not local time.

Most trains offer three classes of sleeper service – spalny vagon (1^st class), kupe (2^nd class) and platskartny (3^rd class). Spalny vagon compartments have just two berths, with both beds at the lower level. Kupe are 4-berth compartments consisting of two upper and two lower bunks. Finally, platskartny are open 6-berth compartments with both upper and lower bunks. Both spalny vagon and kupe have doors that lock, while platskartny compartments are open – this makes third class a little more social, but a little less secure.

How Much Should You Budget?

How much you spend on your train journey will depend on all of the factors mentioned above, but I would say around $1,000 for tickets, accommodations and food is a good starting point. 

For example, booking through Real Russia, a kupe ticket from Moscow to Vladivostok might run about $900, while platskartny would be less than half, at just $360. On the other hand, splurging on first class would cost you nearly $1800. Prices for the nonstop trip to Beijing are similar.  You can save up to 33% by taking one of the lower quality passenger trains instead of the cosmetically nicer “firmenny” trains.

Note that breaking up the journey into separate legs may add some additional cost to your trip. For example, making stops in both Yekaterinburg and Irkutsk en route to Vladivostok would increase the total to $1130 for kupe.

Price can also by day and time of departure, so if you are on a tight budget, be sure to play around with the schedules and note that not all types of trains are available on all routes or run on all days. Russian Railways offered a sale this fall that offered up to 50% off fares booked at least 30 days in advance, but also imposed a 5% penalty on tickets purchased less than 10 days before departure.  Keep an eye out for similar deals in the future.

What to Expect on the Train

When I boarded my first train, I felt a bit lost. Everyone around me seemed to have their routines down, from the clothes they changed into and the food they neatly set out on the small table, to the way they effortlessly made up their bed. I just tried to watch and follow their lead and by the time I departed on my second leg, I felt like an old pro.

Toilets: Each carriage has a toilet on each end and they will be locked shortly before, during and shortly after most station stops (and border crossings if you’re heading into China or Mongolia).  The toilet doors usually have a schedule showing these closures. Despite my fears, they were kept quite clean and well stocked with toilet paper.

Food and Water: You will find a samovar with boiling water on one end of the car, usually opposite the attendant’s compartment.  If you bring your own water bottle, you can also refill it with drinkable water from the attendant. While food is available for purchase in the dining car and from vendors roaming the halls, it can be overpriced and the selection may be limited. You may be better off bringing your own provisions, especially for a multi-day journey.

Electronics: Outlets for charging cell phones and the like are available in the hallways. Most carriages have fold-down seats so you can sit with your device as it charges, although it was not uncommon for people to leave theirs hanging unattended.

During my time on the train, I shared my kupe compartment with Russians ranging from businessmen and babushkas to members of a girls’ volleyball team.  Some of my “roommates” boarded and went straight to sleep; others were traveling with people in other compartments and spent most of their time elsewhere. One guy stood in the hallway staring out at the passing landscape for hours at a time. Just a few really wanted to talk..

A babushka flashed her gold teeth as she rambled nonstop to anyone who would listen. An orphanage teacher was wonderfully patient as I practiced my Russian with her over our 2 days together, while an engineer was anxious to try out his English, paging through my dictionary and asking me carefully formulated questions. None were looking to party – the drink of choice for most was tea, not vodka, which is contrary to many of the stories you hear about the Trans-Siberian.

By the end of my journey, I was exhausted, relieved, satisfied and immensely grateful. My fears prior to the trip were unfounded, the people I met were some of the friendliest in my three months in Russia and the experiences were unforgettable.  And back in Moscow, sharing my stories with friends there, I began to really appreciate the fact that I had just seen more of Russia in one month than most Russians will ever see in a lifetime.

Katie Aune is a Minnesota native and former attorney who recently quit her job in nonprofit fundraising to spend a year volunteering and traveling through the 15 countries of the former Soviet Union. You can follow her adventures on Katie Going Global or on Twitter @katieaune.

And that’s exactly what happened when I went to Hong Kong. I didn’t do any planning. I knew nothing about Hong Kong other than I had to eat dumplings. But I knew who would know what to do – you. So, I did something I haven’t done before: I let my readers plan my trip. I asked people on Facebook and Twitter to suggest things to see and do, then used their responses  as a guide. I was very impressed and overwhelmed by the outpouring of ideas and information. I knew I’d never be able to do everything suggested in the 3 days I had in Hong Kong.

But I tried.

Friday Night

By the time I arrived at my guesthouse on Hong Kong Island from the airport, it was dinner time and I was severely jetlagged. After eating dinner (delicious fried chicken and rice) and exploring my neighborhood, I collapsed into bed around 9 p.m. and fell asleep within minutes. So much for Friday night!

Saturday

A few people recommended Ocean Park, so that’s where I went. It’s a theme park that features giant panda bears, rides, and an aquarium. I’d never seen a giant panda before and I was pretty excited to see one, though I wasn’t so excited when it decided to do #2 right in front of me. That was more than I wanted to see. I spent the day photographing pandas, enjoying a few roller coasters and water rides, and marveling at how you can still find huge tour groups with a flag holding tour guide at an amusement park. I mean is it that difficult to find your way through a tiny amusement park? PLUS, the guides had microphones so they could talk about….what? Going on the rides? Sometimes, I just don’t get those tour groups.

To be honest, this is a pretty lame amusement park. The aquarium doesn’t have a lot of interesting fish. The rides are less than thrilling. The food’s bland, and it’s way too crowded. I wouldn’t go back to Ocean Park. The only reason to go there is to see a giant panda. It’s worth the entrance fee alone.

That night, I followed the advice I’d got from many on Twitter: I went to Lan Kwai Fong with a friend who is studying in Hong Kong. This area of town is one of the main nightlife areas and is especially popular with expats and tourists. It’s pretty much all foreigners. There was a carnival going on and the streets were lined with beer, food vendors, music, and dancing girls. After a few yard sticks of beer, my friend and I called it a night and I went back home to finally kick my jetlag.

Sunday

Waking up early, I plowed through some work and then explored Kowloon island. I went around the seaport and walked around Kowloon Park, which is a lovely place. I don’t know if it is just a Sunday thing, but everywhere I walked, I encountered small groups of Muslim women sitting around, chatting, eating, and sometimes singing. Maybe someone from the area can clue me in on why it was only Muslim women (I’m guessing from Indonesia) who were doing this.

The park is an excellent way to cool off as it’s very well shaded, though I was super sad the public pool was closed until March. I mean, come on city officials, it’s still damn hot in November!

Walking away disappointed and dripping with sweat, I took the advice of every travel blogger known to man, I visited the famous Chung King Mansion. Famous for being derelict, run down, and a huge fire hazard, I couldn’t imagine staying at one of the guesthouses in the building. Sure, they are really cheap but even that’s too cheap for me. However, a bright point is that there’s some really good Indian food stalls and restaurants on the ground floor. Delicious food at a good price. And, if you for some reason need a stolen phone, I this is the place to go. They have everything.

Monday

I did the Ngong Ping 360 on my last day. This is a cable car that takes you through Lantau Island and up to see the famous giant Buddha. My whole weekend in Hong Kong was beautiful, warm, and sunny but the day I decide to do the cable car ride for sweeping views of the city, it rained. It got cloudy. It got cold. I could barely see a few feet in front of me. But because I have a incredible fear of heights, it might have been a good thing. I spent most of the ride cursing at my friend for taking me on this thing while trying not to look down. I was miserable. Sure, the scenery was impressive when the clouds broke on the way back, but it’s not an experience I want to relive.

And the Buddha statue? It’s pretty awesome. It was gigantic and ornate. I was very impressed by it.

After spending only a few seconds in Hong Kong, I realized three days was not nearly enough time to explore the city. I need more time. A lot more time. I didn’t make it to Macau. Inclement weather prevented me from heading to the peak for a view of the city at night. I missed the fireworks. I didn’t get to some of the outer islands or small villages. I just missed so much.

But the food…the food! Hong Kong is a foodie city if there ever was one. Around every corner is an amazing noodle, dumpling, or dim sum restaurant. Smells of noodles and pork and fried chicken fill the air. My nose guided me to delicious food stalls for three days.  And as an avid sushi lover, I was overjoyed to find  that there seemed to be a decent quality sushi restaurant everywhere I went.

I barely scratched the surface of the this fabulous and mesmerizing city. And, I think by even saying that, I’m being very generous with the amount of sightseeing I did.

I loved Hong Kong and I regret coming to Asia so often yet never having made it here before. Hong Kong is simply an amazing and energetic city that you should visit and I need to return to for a much longer visit.

And thanks everybody for the great travel advice. This was my first experiment in having my whole trip planned for me and it went over extremely well. I might have to crowdsource my trips more often. You are better than any guidebook.

People often ask me why I return to places I’ve already visited instead of exploring somewhere new. Well, that’s an easy answer – it’s because I feel attached to them. I feel at home when I’m visiting them. And Thailand is probably the one place outside of the US where I feel most at home.

And why do I love Thailand so much? Well, let me count the ways:

The Delicious Food

When people say they like Thai food but haven’t been to Thailand, I can’t help but think “you have never really experience Thai food.” Thai food in Thailand is leagues better than anywhere else in the world. There’s more variety and more flavors. Your mouth dances with a concert of flavors when you eat here. The food has kick to it, too. I always order “mai pet” which means “not spicy” because by Thai standards means only one chili. Anything more than that, and I look like I’m about to keel over and die. (I have a low tolerance for spicy food.) All over the streets of Thailand, outdoor stalls serve up the cheapest and best Thai meals you can find. And no matter what time of the day it is, there’s always food available somewhere.

Moreover, there is a lot of savory international food in the country. Thailand is a very international thanks to the hordes of tourists and expats (foreigners who live in Thailand) around the country. Some of my favorite sushi restaurants are in Bangkok, and you can find amazing halal and Indian food in the downtown Sukhumvit area. And, surprisingly, you’ll also find a lot of Mexican — Senor Pico’s is the best Mexican outside of North America.

Thailand is a foodie’s wet dream.

The Warm Weather

I love the sun a lot (much to my mother’s and my dermatologist’s dismay). I think after shoveling snow in Boston for the vast majority of my life, I gravitate to the sun because in the tropics, there’s no snow to shovel. Even though there’s a monsoon season in Thailand, I love the heat and the fact that it is always hot and humid in Thailand appeals to me. It’s never jacket weather and I can always wear a t-shirt and shorts.

(O.K., that’s not entirely true. In January, I do wear a jacket. It gets pretty close to 20 C here. You can always tell the expats from the tourists in Bangkok because the expats are the ones wearing sweaters and jackets in January. I once had a friend visit me and I refused to turn on the A/C in my apartment. It was far too cold for that!)

The Friendly Locals

Thais are some of the nicest people I have ever met. They are always happy, always smiling, extremely polite and always helpful. They will help you out if you are in trouble and help translate for you if you can’t speak Thai. They treat you well and whenever I come back here, the local shop owners whose stores I frequent greet me with a warm smile and big hug. Thais have amazing memories and once a friend, always a friend. I always feel safe in Thailand. Thais rarely steal or cause any problems. Thailand is one of the few countries I feel comfortable leaving my laptop out while I go to the bathroom.

It’s Perfect for Travel
Thailand is smack dab in the middle of everything. It’s 3 hours to Hong Kong, 2 hours to Singapore, 4 hours to Bali, half way between Australia and Europe. You can get to a lot of places easily from Thailand, which when you are a traveler like myself, is really appealing. And, you can get to many of these destinations cheap. I’m heading to Singapore tomorrow for 4 days and it only cost me $120 USD roundtrip on Tiger Airways. Not a bad deal and not a bad way to spend the weekend.

The Postcard Perfect Tropical Islands

I love the beach. I can sit on the sand and go for a swim for hours upon end. It’s heaven to me. (See above and my love of warm weather). While Thailand has been developed for years and many of the best beaches have been ruined through uncontrolled development, you can still find some pristine, picture perfect islands and beaches around the country. I particularly love Ko Chang, Ko Kood, Surin Island, Ko Adang, and Ko Lanta. Heading down south near the Malaysian border, I think you find the best islands. They all look like the above picture and a place like that is simply heaven to me.

The Lush Jungles

As much as I enjoy sitting on the beach, I also love to hike through jungles, and Thailand has some of the beautiful and lush ones I’ve seen. From the jungles and elephants in Khao Yai national park to Khao Sok in the south with it’s famed lake to the famous jungle and hill tribe treks near Chaing Mai, you can get your tropical jungle fix very easily here. They may not be the wild and untamed jungles of some places in Borneo or the middle of Africa but they still offer amazing views, dense forests, waterfalls to cool off in, and an interesting variety of wildlife.

The International Environment

Thailand is a country where you can get as local or foreign as you like. Because of the all the tourists and expats that live here, the country is very cosmopolitan and international. There are global food chains, international restaurants, stores, Starbucks, and Hollywood movies. Thailand is a melting pot of people and you’ll find people from around the world. I’ve made friends here from France, Germany, Argentina, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and Israel just to name a few.

Thailand is Convenient
Thailand is convenient. Hungry at 3:30am? There’s someone around to sell you food. Need to take a bus to Vietnam? That can be easily arranged. Need to go shopping at some strange hour? There’s a store open. Pharmacy at 2am? Got that too. Thailand is just an easy place to live and move around in. And, in Bangkok, you never have to wait for a taxi.

The Beautiful People

Let’s be real – Thais are pretty good looking. There’s a reason so many people come here and marry Thais. They are pretty damn hot. It’s nice coming to a country where everyone is good looking. The women here are just stunning with beautiful skin and exotic looks. All of my friends have dated Thai girls.

Bangkok

I hated Bangkok the first few times I traveled there. It wasn’t until I moved there that I fell in love with it. Bangkok, it turns out, is an easy city to live in – there’s lots to do, plenty of events, great bars, amazing food (see above), and it’s easy to get around (except during rush hour). I love cities where there is always something to do and no matter what time of the day, no matter what day of the week, you can always find something to do in Bangkok. Like New York, Bangkok is a city that never sleeps.

It’s Cheap!
Thailand is cheap to visit and cheap to live in. Yesterday, I spent $4 USD for all of my food for the day, including some drinks and snacks. Most food from the street vendors costs $1. I can get a private room for $10 USD per night, or a bungalow in front of the beach for $15- 20 USD. An apartment in downtown Bangkok costs $300 a month and it’s still bigger than what I need. Thailand simply offers incredible value for your money. A few years back, I was telling my friend that after a month bouncing around the islands, I had spent around 40,000 baht ($1,400 USD). He was shocked! “How the hell could you spend so much money in one month!” he exclaimed. Thailand is a country so cheap, $1,400 dollars is considered a lot of money. I paid double that in rent in New York City.

When people ask me my favorite country, I always say Thailand. I always find that question to be like Sophie’s choice – how can you pick a favorite country? Every country amazing in their own right. No country is really better than another – just different. However, Thailand has a special place in my heart. We have a long history together. I’ll always return to this country. I love it here too much.

But as I listened to the people around me and looked at the faces on the train, I felt at ease. I was comfortable. I knew I was home. Though I’ve been away a long time, Bangkok and I were as close as ever.

I checked into my guesthouse, dropped my bags and practically leapt out the door. I needed to explore. I needed to be outside – in my city. I wanted to wrap it around me like a blanket.

I had errands to run. I had food to eat. I had friends to see.

As I made my way down the main street of Sukhumvit, I marveled at the new buildings. There was surprise at seeing that derelict buildings, after being there for more years than I can remember, had finally been torn down. Bangkok was changing.

But it still felt like home.

The sights. The sounds. The smells. The pace.

Everything was familiar.

I was practically skipping down the streets.

I moved to familiar haunts.

I ate near my old house. Fried rice never tasted so good.

The guy I buy movies from gave me a big hug and asked me why I’ve been gone so long.

“I went home,” I said.

“I’ll come back more often,” I promise. We make small talk, he smiles, shakes my hand, and tells me not to stay away for so long again.

I move on with my day – there’s a lot to do. Walking into my old hair stylist, I ask how much for a cut. “150 Baht,” she says. Same as last year. She remembered my face better than I remembered hers.

I feel a bit embarrassed.

“Where have you been?” she asks me. “It’s been a long time.”

It would be hard to explain my last year. I simply tell her I went home. It’s partially true.

“Oh really? You go home to work?”

“Yeah, I work on the internet though so I can work anywhere.”

“Why don’t you work here?” she presses.

We make small talk in a mixture of Thai and English. I’m impressed she remembers so much about me.

She compliments me on how good my Thai still is, though I think she is just being polite.

It feels good to speak Thai again but, as I stumble over my words, I know I’m rusty.

In typical fashion, she asks me if I have a girlfriend.

No, I say. I’m not looking for one.

She tells me Thailand is a prefect place to find one.

She laughs.

I laugh.

As my haircut finishes, she admonishes me. “If you don’t come back more, I’ll raise the price of your haircuts. Thailand is your home.”

Later in the evening, I head to my favorite bar, Cheap Charlie’s. It’s the home of many good memories. “Sawadee Krap Satit”, I say, “I’ll have a gin and tonic.” Looking up from his CDs, the bartender smiles a big grin. He too remembers me. Of course, he says.

That night as I have drinks with friends, I can’t help but think that my hairdresser was right – I am home. Part of me belongs here. Like a piece in a puzzle, I fit perfectly. There’s nothing unfamiliar about Bangkok and every part of it feels normal to me. It always pulls me back.

We may not remain in a place forever, but sometimes places forever remain in us.